Hey guys, I am looking to pull the frame out from under my 442 project and restore the frame by itself. New fuel and brake lines, paint job, bushings, suspension, etc. I cannot find ANYWHERE a magazine article or anything that helps me go from point A to point B so I am asking you smart guys.

What are the steps and tools and products I need to get my frame back to new? Tricks of the trade?

My frame is already mostly blasted and the car is a shell, ready to come off. I am currently deployed so I have alot of time to plan this out and find the supplies I need so you are helping me out immensely. This is a big project for me as I am a first time builder. Thanks!

 

I have a thread detailing the restoration of a 69 442 convertible that may give you some ideas or things to consider.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...n-project.html

I would also suggest you look at threads by Allan R and Lady72nRob71 as they covered front and rear suspension rebuilds in their threads. Both were for 72 Cutlass cars but the info would be the same for your car.

Let us know if you have any questions. And thanks for your service to our country.

Brian

 

I have the backyard version of what 69442C has done detailed in the link in my sig.

 

It all depends on what you want. A frame that has black paint on it, a nice driver or a show quality frame. Each one has different levels of teardown and detail. For a basic job you can blast and paint. Top notch job involves removing everything, A arms, springs, etc and detailing every part.

I did this one...

framedoneeeeee33.jpg

framedoenee22.jpg

Not perfect by any means, but I learned some stuff for this one Im doing now.
DSC_0468.jpg

Get the frame as white as possible, meaning you want it clean clean clean. Fill any rust pits with filler. Painting a pitted frame black really looks like crap. Remember the frame wasnt pitted when new. Its a lot of work to fill and sand the frame but the end result will show.

I stay away from powdercoat. The first frame I used Eastwood Chassis black. Real good match, easy to use and pretty cheap when compared to other paint. I used their Rust Encapsilator as a primer under the paint. Dont know if I will go that route on the second one. May put down some DP-90LF then high build this one. Im not on a time constraint so I might as well make it perfect.

After that you can add your new brake lines and fuel line. I would get some new springs from Eaton Detroit, all new tie rods and steering parts and ball joints. I would press in the new A arm bushings before painting the arms.

Youll need to rent a ball joint remover tool kit and spring compressors, at least I did. Youll need a good torque wrench to torque all the nuts on the suspension. And time, because it takes a long time from start to finish.

 

First as Brian (69442) said thank you for your service, and I highly recommend his thread as well as the others mentioned.

your going to need ( at least) these things

the factory, chasis, assembly and body manuals, these are available on line, but copies to keep in the shop will be better.

plenty of bags and tags

you will need a way to pull the body off the frame, any number of ways can be utilized, I used an engine hoist in the rear and a floorjack and wood beams in front, I put it back on with two engine hoists.

you are going to need to have something to put the body on, so construct or buy a rotisseree, or a body dolly, or some kind of frame work to support the body. believe me a rotisseree will save you so much grief ask me how I know...

you can usually rent or borrow a lot of the specialized tools like spring compressors, ball joint presses etc but they are also not too expensive from say a harbor freight for a one or two tinme use.

engine stand,

a sand blaster is good and in a cabinet it is better,

mig welder with gas

normal set of mechanics tools 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 drive

at least one BF Hammer

an air compressor for air tools, impact gun at least not necessary but makes like easier.

locate and decide
engine builder or machinist
body guy or place to paint
differential and tranny guy

start deciding on what exactly you are going to do ( stock or modified)
and start making a check list and part requirement and sourcing springs, bushings, etc etc

it is almost intuitive, you pull the body off, and a good idea is to have it media blasted, then sealed, if you have a body guy, see if he will work on the car on a dolly, etc etc

more guys will chime in, but you get the idea.

 

I'm curious as to why you say this. I've had very good results with powdercoat, plus there's a shop locally that will sandblast and powdercoat the frame for about $800. That's a deal in my book. Of course, you have the problem of not being able to fill the rust pits, so for that reason I can understand the use of paint. Your frame looks fantastic in the pictures.

 

The pitting issue, chip repair, moisture getting behind the powder and causing it rust from the inside out, sheets peeling off, etc. All issues I heard about with powdercoat.

It cost me 300 bucks to have the frame and suspension parts blasted last week.

 

Thank you, me and my guys appreciate the love, trust me. Long war.
I saw your thread, that is EXACTLY what I have been looking for! Stupid google search! Haha. If I may, how did you clean up the power steering box, did you send it out, or just scrub and paint the outside or break it down or what?

 

The PS box is a rebuilt unit I purchased that also has a faster ratio in it. I think full left to full right is around 2 1/2 turns as oposed to the original 3 3/4. The box must have been bead blasted as part of the rebuilding and it was painted solid cast metal (not the best paint work) when I got it. I was able to remove the paint with a rag and thinner and a few brushes dipped in thinner and then I painted the pieces you see. I used several different colors to try to mimic the original platings that would have been used as well as painting the main parts to duplicate the bare cast metal look.

I assume you are Army? Can you give a general idea of your responsibilities over there?

Brian

 

Air Force actually. Combat Search and Rescue. Performing CASEVAC right now. I'm a Flight Lead in the HH-60G Pavehawk.
Where might I ask did you buy the steering box? I would be interested in acquiring such.

 

My wife works for a defense contractor and they specialize in night vision technology, something I'm sure you use. Best to you and be safe.

I looked at my records and I see that I actually bought that steering box as a new item and it came from a company called Ground Up (www.ss396.com) and they are based in CT. I stumbled across this company (Chevy Supplier) a few years ago and found that the same parts that would fit an Olds or Chevelle (such as the steering box) was actually priced much better from this company than some of the Olds parts houses. In some cases, I have found their parts to be as much as 25% less. Other places you can look for parts are PST for all of your suspension bushings and front end parts, Fusick is an Olds supplier (shipping prices are getting a little out of hand), Year One, Tamraz, Supercars Unlimited, OPGI and In Line Tube. ILT is a supplier for the fuel and brake lines and they also carry a lot of suspension and chassis bolts, clips fittings and so much more. They have a 442 catalog on their website. I would suggest you only use a company called The Parts Place as a last resort and stay away from Brothers Automotive. I say this based on my experiences with both companies. You will find that some do better than others on pricing and it can vary depending on what you are looking for. There are other parts suppliers too and depending on where you live, it may be better to work with suppliers closer to you to minimize shipping. For a correct quality exhaust system, look to Gardners Exhaust.
Brian

 

I am VERY familiar with NVG products, haha. Probably too much in fact. Thank you!

Were there more than one type of steering boxes in 68 with different steering ratios? I am not even sure what I have but I have found some "factory" quick ratio boxes that advertise 2.5 turns lock to lock. Just wondering if so, how would I tell which mine is or is not? Fellas?

Oh, and 69442C, what type of bushings did you end up using and would you use them again? rubber, polygraphite, polyurethane, etc. And where did you sue them?

 

There wasn't an option for different steering ratios for your car in 1968 and the faster ratios you've read about are upgrades that some people do to give the car a better feel. If you do a steering box upgrade, make sure the size of the input shaft on the box matches what you have. Some cars from the 80's had faster ratio boxes that will bolt into your chassis but they had a smaller diameter input shaft which then requires trying to find a rag joint that fits the box and your intermediate sheering shaft. You can also send your original steering box to one of a few companies who will rebuild it and install a faster ratio.

I purchased an entire front end rebuilding kit and the rear suspension bushings from PST. Since I was doing mostly a restoration, I stayed with the stock type rubber bushings.
Brian