1965 Delta 88 Disc Conversion
1965 Delta 88 Disc Conversion
I know I read about how it can be done, but I can't seem to find it anymore. Can anybody tell me which parts I could use to convert my Deum brakes into Discs?
Thanks
Thanks
Stainless Steel Brakes makes a kit. I have not used it but am thinking about it for a future upgrade: http://www.ssbrakes.com/products/det...ight&year=1965
Scarebird Brakes (look it up on the internet makes a kit for this conversion. The kit includes a hub and disc brake backing plate. Then the give you a list of parts you can buy and NAPA or use to go to the wrecking yard and scavage on wreck cars and trucks. If you check the rockauto site it will give you a cross refrence on the different cars and trucks the common parts are used on. Scarebirds price is $265.00 for the HUB and backing plate and the list of items
Stainless Steel Brakes makes a kit. I have not used it but am thinking about it for a future upgrade: http://www.ssbrakes.com/products/det...ight&year=1965
I saw there kit, but I don't have $700 to spend at the moment for a disc upgrade
Thanks
Scarebird Brakes (look it up on the internet makes a kit for this conversion. The kit includes a hub and disc brake backing plate. Then the give you a list of parts you can buy and NAPA or use to go to the wrecking yard and scavage on wreck cars and trucks. If you check the rockauto site it will give you a cross refrence on the different cars and trucks the common parts are used on. Scarebirds price is $265.00 for the HUB and backing plate and the list of items
Scarebird Brakes (look it up on the internet makes a kit for this conversion. The kit includes a hub and disc brake backing plate. Then the give you a list of parts you can buy and NAPA or use to go to the wrecking yard and scavage on wreck cars and trucks. If you check the rockauto site it will give you a cross refrence on the different cars and trucks the common parts are used on. Scarebirds price is $265.00 for the HUB and backing plate and the list of items
Do you have a link to that? I was on there website and couldn't find anything for a '65 Delta 88
Go back to the site and look at the product list: It states 1957, 58-60, & 61-69 Oldsmobiles. You can also call or e-mail (if you call as for Mark using their listed phone number). He will send you the instructions. I have ordered the conversions for both the front and back of my 57 and should have next week. I am now scouring the wrecking yard to pick up as maney pieces as I can to limit what I have to bue new. I will post pictures on the conversion on both the front and back as I do the conversion. I expect to have around $650.00 into the full conversion

This does not count the 15" rims and wide whites I will have to b;uy
.By the way I now have a full 5-tire set on less the a 1000 miles Crocker wide white sidewalls for sale. My cost was $1,200.00 new. I will sell with the rims and the 57 Super Hubcaps for $800.00 shipping by others
65-66 Big Car Drum to Disc (factory style) conversion
I did this years ago on my 1966 98 convertible. Here's the scoop if you want to go factory:
You know you'll need 15" disc-brake compatible wheels right? You're looking for 5X5 bolt circle, probably 7" wide, or more if you like. And you know that Olds didn't make hubcaps for 15" wheels in 65 or 66, except Toros. So you'll need to make up your own hubcaps. I used 71-76 caprice wires with 1966 Olds spinners on my 66 Starfire. I used 1970 98 hubcaps on my 1966 98.
Get everything between the balljoints from a 69 or 70 88/98. I mean spindles, rotors, calipers, brackets, even brake hoses (to use as a model for new). The spindles are slightly different in that the drum spindles have a raised flat spot partway up that the discs interfere with. I guess you could grind it off, but if you're using donor parts why not just get the whole thing? While it's apart, it's a good time to magnaflux check your parts for cracks or defects. A-Arms too...
In 71 they changed the whole front suspension from rear steer to front steer. I used 71 calipers with the 69-70 rotors by filing the end just a bit and they've worked fine for years.
As to hydraulics you'll need a disc brake master cylinder & booster from your donor car. You'll also need the factory proportioning valve that sits beneath the booster/master cylinder combo. Since you'll probably be reusing your rear brakes (i.e. leaving them unchanged), you should get a variable proportioning valve from Wilwood or similar to control line pressure to the rear brakes. Plumb that between the factory proportioning valve and the rear axle somewhere convenient, like under the driver's footwell. If memory serves, the rears need to lock up first or you'll be all over the road in a panic stop.
I think that's the fix in a nutshell. The drawback is I think rotors for this combination are getting just as scarce as the mid-60's drums are. Get some that have enough meat left to survive one or two turnings.
If others have suggestions on a better way to do this, please join in.
cheers
cf
You know you'll need 15" disc-brake compatible wheels right? You're looking for 5X5 bolt circle, probably 7" wide, or more if you like. And you know that Olds didn't make hubcaps for 15" wheels in 65 or 66, except Toros. So you'll need to make up your own hubcaps. I used 71-76 caprice wires with 1966 Olds spinners on my 66 Starfire. I used 1970 98 hubcaps on my 1966 98.
Get everything between the balljoints from a 69 or 70 88/98. I mean spindles, rotors, calipers, brackets, even brake hoses (to use as a model for new). The spindles are slightly different in that the drum spindles have a raised flat spot partway up that the discs interfere with. I guess you could grind it off, but if you're using donor parts why not just get the whole thing? While it's apart, it's a good time to magnaflux check your parts for cracks or defects. A-Arms too...
In 71 they changed the whole front suspension from rear steer to front steer. I used 71 calipers with the 69-70 rotors by filing the end just a bit and they've worked fine for years.
As to hydraulics you'll need a disc brake master cylinder & booster from your donor car. You'll also need the factory proportioning valve that sits beneath the booster/master cylinder combo. Since you'll probably be reusing your rear brakes (i.e. leaving them unchanged), you should get a variable proportioning valve from Wilwood or similar to control line pressure to the rear brakes. Plumb that between the factory proportioning valve and the rear axle somewhere convenient, like under the driver's footwell. If memory serves, the rears need to lock up first or you'll be all over the road in a panic stop.
I think that's the fix in a nutshell. The drawback is I think rotors for this combination are getting just as scarce as the mid-60's drums are. Get some that have enough meat left to survive one or two turnings.
If others have suggestions on a better way to do this, please join in.
cheers
cf
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