1956 Oldsmobile EXTREMELY Sensitive Brakes
Have you replaced the brake hoses recently? Sounds like they might have failed. When brake hoses age they're known to fray internally and act as a pressure check valve when activating the brakes. If you remove your drums to inspect for leaks and one of them is difficult to remove this is another sign.
How often do you drive it? Drums are notorious for being touchy with rust build up. We had an old tow truck that would lock up instantly for the first couple of stops. Once the rust wore off they worked as they should.
Have you replaced the brake hoses recently? Sounds like they might have failed. When brake hoses age they're known to fray internally and act as a pressure check valve when activating the brakes. If you remove your drums to inspect for leaks and one of them is difficult to remove this is another sign.
We're not saying the drums are rusted to the shoes, preventing motion.
We are saying that there may be a coating of surface rust on the drum--not enough to interfere with free rotation.
The friction coefficient of that rust is FAR greater than that of bare iron. So, when you apply the brakes they GRAB.
With brake applications, that surface rust will wear away and you will be back to the pedal feel you are accustomed to.
That's what's being proposed. Try it. And we hope it works out that way for you.
We are saying that there may be a coating of surface rust on the drum--not enough to interfere with free rotation.
The friction coefficient of that rust is FAR greater than that of bare iron. So, when you apply the brakes they GRAB.
With brake applications, that surface rust will wear away and you will be back to the pedal feel you are accustomed to.
That's what's being proposed. Try it. And we hope it works out that way for you.
Not to be contrary maybe you are just putting too much pressure on the pedal. My 1st Olds a 66 Delta had touchy brakes, not necessarily "locking up" but touchy. I got used to them and no problem. My dad would borrow the car at times and first few stops had everyone lurching forward...
Ensure the brake fluid reservoir is not overfilled. Brake fluid heats up as it heats up, it expands - as the fluid expands it needs a void above the fluid to expand. If there isn't a void (air) over the brake fluid in the brake fluid reservoir (e.g. over filled condition), pressure will build in the system and begin to prematurely apply this pressure to the brakes. If that could be the case, remove (turkey baster) some brake fluid to provide some head space in the reservoir.
Thank you everyone for your input! However, the inside of the drums are not rusty.
Just so everyone is on the same page, we are a shop not a DIY. You can visit our website at www.britishsportscars.com. Of course even professionals can overlook things, but I thought this was important to add some context.
Just so everyone is on the same page, we are a shop not a DIY. You can visit our website at www.britishsportscars.com. Of course even professionals can overlook things, but I thought this was important to add some context.
Here's a link to the thread mentioned above:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...abbing-135466/
The continual scroll feature of our site can be a PITA!
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...abbing-135466/
The continual scroll feature of our site can be a PITA!
Yeah, I don't mind it too much and just posted the link for those of us that are nearly computer illiterate, @Oldsguy I rarely make posts in the wrong thread.
Sorry, thread hijacked.
Sorry, thread hijacked.

If your 56 has power brakes, the booster is failing or is assembled incorrectly. Check by disconnecting and plugging the vacuum supply to the booster, then CAREFULLY drive and check braking action. Will require a lot more pedal effort but should still stop.
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Aug 22, 2013 06:33 PM




