So I went to remove my parking brake cable last night so I could ensure the one I buy is right, but it seems stuck. I removed the clip in the car, and the one on the frame, but the cable will not budge. I've reached up behind the wheel well and tugged on it, it will not budge. It's completely frozen in place, both in it's sheath and in the car. I cannot figure out what is binding it, it doesn't seem like the firewall plug is holding it up. Am I missing a third clip somewhere?

I've tried cutting it in three or four places, I have nothing which will cut it. I strained both my arms trying with all kinds of tools. That braided cable is really no joke. I tried to replace it because it jammed up when I tried to use the brake and it won't engage the rear brake 'cause it's bound up in it's sheath. The rear section works fine, I can set the brake by pulling on it by hand. I think I may have to borrow some bolt cutters and take it out in pieces, but if there is another way, lemme know.

Thanks,

-Ben

 

No 3rd clip. Whack the end with a hammer, or hammer + punch if you can't get at it. It could be stuck between the body + frame somehow if routed wrong.

 

I if this is the primary cable, the end in the car has flared fingers like a parking brake cable in the rear drums. You need to compress them and the cable will slide out fairly easy. Put a small worm drive clamp around those fingers and compress.

 

I didnt have a small worm drive clamp but I did use a boxed end of a wrench. I cant recall if its a 1/2" or a 9/16". But give it a try. It worked for me.

 

The three-finger "barb" fittings are located at the base of the firewall under the e-brake pedal and at each backing plate. There are tools available to compress these fingers for removal.

 

X2 AlanR, I managed to get mine loose with a good pair of needle nose pliers.

 

Yes, I did that on my e brake cables before someone suggested the clamp compression method. Either one works. Not going to go out and buy a special tool for that especially for just one or 2 uses.

 

I had to look very close and see what needed to be compressed with the needle nose pliers. Once I compressed you have to push down at the same time to push the compressed tabs through the firewall. I was by myself. Or if you had a helper they could pull down from the outside while you compress the fitting? I had a tough time pulling the cable long enough to fit it back on the emergency brake attachment.

 

That's exactly why the compression clamp works so well, you only need one person.

 

I've used the 9/16" wrench a few times & it's never been real easy. Thanks for the worm clamp trick Allan & also to Joe. I've never seen that tool but I'm a tool geek & will buy it if I ever see it. As many cars as I've taken apart I can justify the cost.

 

Thanks for the advice, I guess I'll be pulling part of the plastic wheel well loose. I almost got my arm stuck up there laying in the floor of the warehouse where I work. Noone would've been around 'til about 6:30-7AM so I guess I'm lucky I didn't get my arm stuck.

Anyway, gonna be rebuilding the steering assembly and replacing the springs this weekend, so I've gotta get this cable replaced as soon as it comes in. I'm thinking I might just cut it with bolt cutters and pull it out in two pieces. It is the forward section, by the way.

 

The sheath and cable are pretty tough stuff. Your call on how to remove though. Yes, having the inner wheel liner out gives excellent access to the body puck box where the cable passes through.

 

Tried to get it out again today, gave up, a friend of mine is going to be rebuilding my control arms and doing a few other things to the car this weekend that I lack the tools for, so I'll have him replace it. The nice thing about knowing a good (And reasonably priced) mechanic is I can choose which work I want to do to my car. Isn't the best hobby the one you can chose to (or not to) do?

 

Yup, he probably will put it up on a hoist which makes access a lot easier too. Which control arms? There are front/rear upper and lowers. In total you'd need 12 bushings to do all of them, but it'll make a huge difference in handling. Might as well have him replace the sway bar bushings and links too.

 

Just having him do the front uppers and lowers, I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the rear end yet, might get aftermarket control arms for a sway bar, so I'm leaving them stock for now. He doesn't have a lift, so it makes it a bit harder, but he does good work either way. I'm just glad my car won't be leaning on the passengers side or flaundering around anymore. Probably swap out the shocks for Bilstein's later on, I have some Monroe SensaTrac's under there now.

I somehow messed up the quantity ordering the sway bar end links and bushings, only got one of each. Oops?

 

"having the inner wheel liner out gives excellent access to the body puck box where the cable passes through"
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the puck, you say?

Never heard that one before.

 

It's what I call the body mounts, cause they look like hockey pucks.