cutlass47

I finally had the new BF Goodrich white letter tires installed on my 1972 Cutlass Supreme a few days ago. I had the tires stored in my basement and covered in plastic for 3 years. I hope I did not take too much life off of them by letting them sit in the basement for so long. I had planned on refinishing the scratched and rusty rims before installing the tires, but it never happened. Man, what an improvement over the 22 year old whitewall tires, both in looks and driveability!
When the front right tire was removed, I noticed that the dust cover on the hub was oily/greasey. Does that indicate a problem with the wheel bearing? I did not look at the driver's side. I had the inner and outer wheel bearings replaced at a local tire store in 1989 about 14,000 miles ago. The mileage is 192,000 now. Hopefully, the seals and racers were replaced at that time as well. Also, I had new front and rear brake pads replaced and the rotors turned at the same time. Since then, the car has sat a lot in my enclosed garage and not driven much, since I moved to my current house in 1992. In 10/94 the mileage was 190,000. Should I replace the bearings now or have them repacked to be on safe side? Should I do anything more to the brakes. The car sat and did not move at all from about 2001 (after I had removed a leaking gas tank) until 11/05 when new tank was installed and a number of other maintenance items were done to get it on the road again. I have only driven it about 600 miles in the last 7 years. I know, I am abusing it by not driving it very much. I hope to drive it more, now that I no longer have may-pop tires on it. Thanks for your feedback!

Run to Rund

It would be worthwhile to inspect the bearings and see that the grease is not contaminated. Some shops still use cheap grease instead of quality disc brake high pressure grease that should be used on all, not just disc brake cars. You can inspect the outer bearing more easily, but will need a new seal to remove the inner bearing. The spindles also need to be greased so the inner races can creep on them. Good grease won't leak out the outer hub cover like that. The consequences of a seized bearing are too severe for the casual approach some take to them.

Allan R

I doubt your bearings have any issues. What I think you're seeing is simply grease that's deteriorated over time. Since you're in Hotlanta? I would suggest that after the amount of time it's just been sitting - the grease has done its time.

Wouldn't hurt to take out the bearings and inspect them. It's an easy job. So is repacking.

brown7373

You noticed the cap was greasy and dirty. If it was installed and stayed in place, it is pretty hard for grease to get past it and make it geasy and dirty. Maybe the last person who was in there put their greasy hands on the cap and didn't wipe it off. It would then attract dust and dirt. The only seal in on the inner bearing, and it that leaks, you'd have a lot of mess behind and maybe on the back side of the rotor.

As Allan said, repacking the bearings is pretty easy. You'll need 2 grease seals, but they are cheap and simple to install. If you don't have a seal installer, a large socket will work. When I was in my teens, I used a piece of 2 X 4 over the seal and tapped it to drive the seal in evenly. As long as you spread the force arount the seal, it goes right in.

Lady72nRob71

An insprection might be good, as well as a repack. That grease is pretty old. Grease either solidifies over age, or it separates. The latter could be happening to you, as centrifugal force will cause the liquid part to be thrown to the outside of the hub, kinda like a clothes washer on spin cycle. Being heated from the brakes helps the separation and makes the liquid even thinner.
A tiny bit of seepage is normal from the front, since the front dust cover is not sealed with a rubber seal.

I repacked my bearings last year and after 1000 miles, some light seepage was evident. I cleaned it off and will probably repeat it every 1000 miles.

oldcutlass

I agree probably time for repack and bearing inspection. Like everyone said above a very easy job.

Eightupman

ugg, tires sitting for three years... I'm not saying it WILL happen, but lets hope a steel belt doesn't break or slip.

John

MDchanic

I would add that I wouldn't trust a single darn thing done at some "tire place" years ago.

You have no idea what they did, or how well, what kind of grease they used, etc.

Along with the others. I'd say why not pull the hubs, check the bearings and races, make sure they look like new ('cause with that many miles, they should), clean out the old, crappy grease that the "tire place" would have used, and re-pack with nice, new high-quality grease - should be good for another 100,000 miles!

- Eric

MDchanic

Yes, but they were in his basement - with no sun exposure and minimal temperature variation, they are likely to be pretty good, compared to some situations you hear about.

- Eric

Allan R

Well, you're probably not going to like hearing this. My tires were made in 1984 and I bought them 'new' in 1986. They have been on the car for the past 26 years and are not deteriorated in the slightest. Mind you the car sits on them all the time and it only leaves the garage when I'm not busy tearing it apart.... I've had the tires inspected and they were considered to be in 'new' condition. I'll take that risk for now.

Cutlass47 - I guess we never really asked you if you have any experience working on cars. Is the wheel re-pack something you can do or are comfortable with? The only thing you need to remember is to put the right torque on the castle nut when you reinstall the washer/cotter pin.

oldcutlass

Tires sitting in the basement for 3 years is not an issue, however Allan tires on a car for 26 years IMHO would be. Yes I know they look just fine, but looks can be deceiving when it comes to tires.

cutlass47

Thanks guys for the quick responses. I plan to have the bearings inspected soon, and they will hopefully only need repacking with high quality grease, since the car has mostly sat in my garage for the last twenty years. Allan, I do have a small amount of expertise working on my Cutlass, but my past DIY jobs have been limited to easy mechanical jobs, i.e., changing spark plugs and wires, points and radiator fluid over the years. I just had major surgery about six weeks ago and although I think I could and would like to attempt repacking or even changing the wheel bearings, I will need to find a mechanic who will handle this particular job for me. After full recovery, I plan to attempt some more complicated DIY jobs to get the Cutlass in better shape, such as cleaning up the radiator both inside and outside; servicing the differential; replacing the rear brake hose, etc. I had been thinking seriously since my surgery about selling this Cutlass that I bought new, but after putting on the new tires, I have gotten fired up and am inspired to do more restoration work on it.

oldcutlass

A speedy recovery to you. I'm sure you can find a reputable mechanics shop to perform this service for you.

Allan R

X2 - get yourself well first.
I'm going through the rear differential/brakes/fuel/suspension right now myself. If you're interested in seeing what's up, here's the link to the thread. As of today the diff and control arms are at the driveline shop. Just spent the afternoon sanding all the crud off the driveshaft. Found I still have the original Saginaw U joints and they are in perfect condition. (Insert shameless plug here https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-disaster.html

cutlass47

It seems the consensus of everyone is to have the bearings on my Cutlass inspected. I plan to have the bearings inspected by a mechanic to see if they need to be repacked or replaced. One shop where I have been getting my tires and other work done on the Cutlass and my other cars for years quoted $150 to replace the bearings. Is that a reasonable amount for this particular job? Also, should I insist on Timken bearings if it turns out that the races were not replaced when the bearings were last done in 1989 and 14,000 miles ago. I have been reading a number of posts that say other bearings are mostly made in China and are inferior products.

brown7373

The races should DEFINITELY be replaced when new bearings are installed, The old races could have wear patterns from the old bearings, especially if the have gone bad.

Unless the bearings were bad before the car sat, they shouldn't need replaced unless they were dry and somehow rusted. They don't go bad just sitting there. I would think they need pulled, inspected and repacked and only replaced if they are worn.

Allan R

Compared to doing it yourself, I think 150 is high considering the amount of time it doesn't take, but it's a convenience for you not to have to do the job yourself. Measure the trade off in $$ you're willing to pay. They probably quoted you a flat rate.

Timken bearings and seals are pretty much a standard for good quality, and FYI they have been manufacturing them in China for YEARS! Don't measure their performance by where they are made, measure by how they are made and what quality they are. Doesn't matter where you buy them, the box will say "made in china". I'd just tell the shop you want them they probably will say they already use them.

If the bearings were ok 14K miles ago they should still be ok now. A clean and repack is a pretty quick job.

oldcutlass

I don't know what your medical isues are, but bearings are not that complicated nor physically demanding. Do you think you can do it yourself? If not plop the $150 and let someone else do it.

Lady72nRob71

Here is what the job entails. Use your best judgement to decide if this is a job for you or the shop. Each rotor is about 8 pounds or so...

Removing rotor and caliper...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post287937

Removing bearings and races....
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post292865

Installing bearings and races...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post331969
The raced were tapped in with a driver set loaned from the local parts store.


Keep in mind I was doing the whole front end, so omit those steps!

brown7373

Allen R, if your tires are 26 years old they could be a ticking time bomb. A group of us were traveling a few years back. One of the guys in his 64 1/2 Mustang with very old tires that looked brand new. Through a construction zone at only 35mph a belt suddenly let go. Fortunately. he just missed the D4 on the side of the road. Only damage was mud all over the car. When I bought my Cutlass it had what looked like brand new BFG Radials. Actually, they were 10 years old. On a busy 2 lane road at 55 mph one of mine had a belt let loose. I went between 2 oncoming cars and safely stopped on the opposite shoulder. Old tires are great until they suddenly aren't. 2 to 3 years in the basement, unless they are already 5 to 6 years old is no problem. Rubber dries out as it ages and becomes less resilient and more brittle. Sitting in the sun is worse, but even in the garage, the rubber structurally deteriorates, like a brake hose, from the inside. Just my 2 cents.