Hello all, I could use some help. My '57 Super 88 "sometimes" pulls to the left when braking. Wheel cylinders, front wheel bearings and brake shoes are new.

When I had first gotten the wheel cylinders and brake shoes changed a few months ago, I drove home from the shop and the brakes suddenly (on the autobahn, just when decelerating to get off) started pulling to the left, coupled with strong vibrations.

We took it to a break test and the left front brake was super but the right was only 50% of the left. We took the front brakes apart and the right shoes only showed wear marks across have the total surface which explain the bad performance but not necessarily the sudden and strong vibration. Something must have happened form one moment to the next because initially there was no vibration and no obvious pull to one side.

I ordered new shoes. The first ones were Raybestos from Rockauto, the second ones were Centric HD, riveted also from rock. I also ordered new wheel bearings (National or Timken, I forget).

Installed it all and things worked perfectly. Drove to the TÜV (German mandatory vehicle inspection) and the Olds passed with flying colors.

Soon after that and all of the sudden, it pulls left again. Out of the blue. No noise or vibration this time, though. Just the pull.

Any ideas? Could a wheel cylinder get stuck but only sometimes? Is that a known problem? Do I need to take the new wheel cylinders apart and "rebuild" them?

Any other ideas?

Thanks from Germany

Stefan

 

Just to add: Front wheel cylinders were from Fusick and cost 60 bucks each. Rockauto didn't and doesn't have any for the 57.

 

I'm going to assume you still have the stock drum brakes and a single-circuit master cylinder on your '57. You didn't mention your drums, how old are your drums and do they still meet the minimum thickness spec?

I suspect that the vibration was due to one side taking all the heat since the other side wasn't helping slow the car, which (hopefully, only temporarily) warped the drums causing the vibration.

I'd check the adjusters on the front brakes to be sure they are installed properly and working properly. Also, check for any pinched brake lines and be sure they are bled properly. It may also be possible that you got a bad wheel cylinder on the right side (even though it is new) that is getting stuck for some reason, although I've never experienced this issue before on any vehicle I've owned w/ drum brakes (most often, wheel cylinders go bad from leaking, not working).

 

Check the brake the rubber brake lines to the fronts as they get old sometimes they collapse internally and create a check valve that won't let fluid return back to the master cylinder. Make sure the adjuster is not moving on its own. Ensure that the brake shoes are mounted in the right positions.

 

Thanks guys. Yes, it's the original drum brake set up with a single circuit brake system. Haven't measured the drums but have swapped them left to right just to check. They didn't look very worn, meaning there wasn't a significant step at the edges. The problem has not swapped sides. So I guess it's either the wheel cylinder on the right or perhaps the brake lines. I have no reason to believe there is air in the system but will make sure. The car is currently stored away from my house but next chance I get I will do as you guys suggest and also post some pics. Thanks for now. Any other ideas, I'd love to hear them.

 

Have been thinking about the possible brake hose issue: Even if it acted as a check valve, it should still let normal pressure through to the wheel cylinders, shouldn't it? It would rather be a problem of one or more brakes not releasing, wouldn't it? Of course that could lead to overheating and vibrations but that's not what I'm currently observing.

 

Just a thought, is it possible that the new shoes were installed "backward" on the right side? They are different. One shoe belongs on the front, and the other belongs on the back.

 

I agree with oldcutlass, if you don't know when they were last changed, I'd change all the rubber brake hoses. Both front and the one over the rear axle. Also if they have never been changed, I'd inspect the entire length of all the metal brake lines for signs of rust through, pin-hole leaks or being mechanically pinched or crushed. When a car gets this old, they are great risks to safety.

A few years ago I replaced the entire hydraulic system and vacuum booster on my 66 Starfire. Replaced all brake lines with stainless, new hoses, new master, new wheel cylinders.

 

Thanks. I'll be sure to check those hoses and lines. Having said that. The bi-annual inspections here in Germany are quite thorough. I'm sure the original parts have been replaced a long time ago. Probably more than once. I had two master mechanics look over the car recently (on a lift) and nobody mentioned the condition of the brake hoses and lines. I'm sure I also inspected them visually for anything obvious. I'll also double-check that the shoes have been installed correctly. It still puzzles me why they sometimes work perfectly and sometimes pull. It's digital. On/off. No in between.

 

I agree with Oldcutlass. I would change all the rubber brake hoses, just to be sure they are not a problem now or in the future. Feel the temperature of the brake drums after a short drive. If they are warm or hot,you know the brake shoes are not releasing. I had the same problem with brakes on my Toronado. Good luck.

 

Actually, I did do that check when I had the problem for the first time. The left was quite warm as expected after braking from autobahn speeds but the right was cold. It pulled to the left so that made sense. I'll check again after a short drive to make sure no drum gets warm when brakes are hardly used.

 

It didn't take me more than a 4 or 5 mile drive to notice a warm drum. You won't need autobahn speeds to check brake drum temps out. Sounds like you are headed in the right direction. Replacing all the brake hoses made a noticeable difference.

 

Yeah, the reason I checked at the time was because I wanted to see if the brakes on both sides got warm evenly, which of course they didn't. I wasn't checking for a cylinder not releasing due to a swollen up hose. I'll make sure to check/replace hoses and report back. Will also check shoes for correct installation. And finally will check wheel cylinder pistons for smooth, free movement.

Thanks again gentlemen.

 

There is no way to visually inspect rubber lines. So no matter how detailed inspections are (and I had a German body man who told me about those inspection) they cannot detect bad hoses They are not that expensive, I would replace all of them.

 

Rubber lines ordered. Found a good deal on eBay for what looks like a quality set of three lines.

 

If you pull the drums off again wipe the shoes down with acetone, sometimes the least amount of brake fluid/ oil will cause brake pull . This sometimes will work just as a test but usually comes back in less than a hundred miles but it lets you know that the shoes somehow got contaminated.....Tedd

 

Thanks Tedd. Will give that a try, too. It might take a while but I'll try to remember to report back.