So the steering is sorted out on the '72 now, but now the car veers to the left while braking. I'm guessing it still has drum brakes, so is this a wheel cylinder problem, or something else?

 

I'm thinking need more drum adjustment to the right in, maybe back the left out one. Also could be some air in the right side.

Go for a drive, grab a nice parking lot, hit 20, apply the parking brake smoothly, and see how it pulls. This will eliminate rear drums from consideration if no pull.

 

It could be only the left brake is applying. A stuck wheel cylinder on the right can cause this. Jack up the right wheel and have someone step on the brakes. If you can spin the wheel, something is not causing the brake to apply. If the brake does apply it may be as Koda suggested, just and adjustment. Good luck

 

You might also have a leaking brake cylinder on the R/F allowing brake fluid to get on the shoes. I don't think a problem with the rear brakes would have any effect on the car pulling to one side.

 

Possible pull cause on drum front brakes
1) Wheel cylinder sticking
2) Shoe adjustment
3) Collapsed brake hose
for starters

 

Another possible cause is leaking fluid resulting in slippery shoes.

 

You have a lot of good suggestions. As indicated, it is likely in the front brakes. You'll never know without doing a brake inspection. My suggestion is that you do it before getting into trouble during a crisis circumstance.

 

Actually leaking fluid causes a wheel to lock up. It can also be one of the rears, although the pulling would be less dramatic.

Don't speculate, pull all 4 wheels and perform an inspection. If any of the wheel cylinders are leaking and the brake shoes got soaked, repair or replace the wheel cylinder and replace the shoes (they come in 2 wheel sets).

Now would also be a great time to clean, inspect/ replace, repack both inner and outer front wheel bearings.

 

That was not my experience. Prolly depends upon how slippery the shoes get.

 

I just went ahead and replaced all of the wheel cylinders, hardware, and bearings on my '67, but if I was planning on keeping this car, I'd just go ahead and convert it to power disc brakes. I'm thinking of trying to find someone to trade it to once I get the engine rebuilt on my old daily driver or if the body shop ever gets around to fixing my '67 so I can actually drive it, though, so I don't want to put more work or money in than I need to to get the car drivable.

I drove the car some today, and the problem isn't nearly as bad as it was yesterday. I didn't experience any pull at all when I first started driving it, then I experienced it slightly intermittently, changing even from stoplight to stoplight. I will have to lift the car tomorrow or Friday to see which wheel isn't braking. I don't want to just yank the drums off to see which cylinder is leaking because it's a pain taking the wheel bearings off and putting them on again. I really hate having front drums.

 

Well, I lifted the car, found out the right front wheel wasn't braking, took the drum off, and the wheel cylinder was bone dry. But I also discovered what I'm guessing was the real culprit in the process:


The master cylinder reservoir was also filled with water and rust, both chambers. I think I skimmed all of the water off of the top, but there's still a lot of rust in the system. Do I need to get it all out?

 

The hose is a common issue when they get old, might as well do the opposite front hose also. I would suction out the fluid in the master, wipe the inside down, and refill with fresh. I start with farthest rear wheel cylinder (RR) and bleed until it flows clear while refilling the master cylinder as needed, then the LR. Move to the fronts, do the RF and then the LF.