brakes dilemma
brakes dilemma
I currently have pending master cylinder replacement that needs to happen.
The car is a 67 Cutlass Supreme/442 with manual all drums.
I'm on an extremely tight budget.
My question is, should I just keep the manual setup, or should I opt for a power booster also?
I know some of you would probably tell me to just upgrade to disc brakes but financial issues don't make it possible right now.
Thanks in advance,
DLP
The car is a 67 Cutlass Supreme/442 with manual all drums.
I'm on an extremely tight budget.
My question is, should I just keep the manual setup, or should I opt for a power booster also?
I know some of you would probably tell me to just upgrade to disc brakes but financial issues don't make it possible right now.
Thanks in advance,
DLP
brake dilemma
Up until now she's been stopping fine.
I noticed the problem on the way home from the last car show.
When I got home I checked the master cylinder and it was darn near empty in the front reservoir and 2/3 full in the rear.
What was left in the front was about 1/4 inch of sludge.
I guess I'm pretty lucky to have made it home without incident.
I noticed the problem on the way home from the last car show.
When I got home I checked the master cylinder and it was darn near empty in the front reservoir and 2/3 full in the rear.
What was left in the front was about 1/4 inch of sludge.
I guess I'm pretty lucky to have made it home without incident.
Normally when the reservoir is near empty and there are no visible leaks around the master cylinder the issue is not the master cylinder but wheel cylinders. If there was no vibrations when applying the brakes there is no need to cut the drums even if replacing shoes and wheel cylinders.
To save time and cash you can buy a wheel cylinder hone and clean up your existing wheel cylinders. Depends on condition, not pitted/rusty. Wheel cylinders kits from rock auto are few bucks each.
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