I have a 67 Toronado, which I have spent so, so much time on the brakes the last few weeks. Its ridiculous.

Firstly I went and bought a rebuilt booster and master cyclinder. The master cylinder was slightly smaller than the one I have on originally, but I thought, not an issue. I did bench bleed (three times), but I just never could get the air out. The brakes would feel fine, but as soon as I took the car out, the pedal would go to the floor. So I changed back the old master cylinder (which was still ok), and its much better again.

So I noticed the master cylinder that I have on the car is not for four wheel drums. Its for cars with disk brakes in front. It’s a bit bigger than the drums one, and the front reservoir is bigger than the rear one. Is that a problem?

Also, the brakes work, but its almost that I have no brakes, then suddenly a LOT of brakes. Very grippy. Its not spongy, its basically nothing, then something. I tried backing up a few times, to see if that would adjust the brakes, but its still the same. Any ideas why that is?

The front brakes are new. The rear ones I just replaced the cylinder, but will do the shoes and springs in the next few weeks

 

You can't use a master cylinder for a car with disc/drums on a car with 4 wheel drum brakes. I suggest ordering a master cylinder from Fusicks. I ordered a master cylinder from a local auto parts store once and when it finally arrived it was the wrong one.

http://www.fusick.com/

 

So put in new master cylinder, new booster. New cylinders on all the wheels, mostly new springs and new shoes. Car seems to stop fine now, but there seems to be a grinding noise from the left front wheel. The brakes disengage, so its not grinding while I am driving. Just grinding at a certain point during the braking. I left the drums as they were. Maybe just brake shoes settling in?
I took the wheel off after the grinding, and everything seemed find. The drums are smooth. The one side of the shoes are smooth as well, the other side seems a bit rougher.

I did back up a few times to adjust the brakes. I out in new adjusters, and they seem to work fine.

 

Did you have the drums turned at a local auto parts store or machine shop?

 

Would that help? Did not have the drums turned. Got some shoes at autozone. Going to take them back and get some Raybestos. Seems to be a bit more expensive. New metal, rivets.

 

I would have the drums turned before doing anything else. Usually, whenever I buy new pads and shoes I make sure I get the adhered ones, not the riveted ones. If the pads or shoes that are riveted wear too far then the rivets can gouge the rotor or drum. True, a weekend warrior shouldn't have this happen but I've seen many damaged rotors and drums in salvage yards. Plus, I like the organic pads and shoes instead of the metallic ones. They seem to stop better and don't squeak as much.

 

I might have put the shoes on wrong. I took photos as I was working, but the previous owner, or someone down the line put the shoes on wrong. The smaller shoe should be towards the front of the car. The bigger shoe should point to the rear of the car on the front and rear wheels, correct?

I know for a fact the small shoes are pointing to the rear on the back wheels.

Previous owner also put one of the springs in wrong. It rubbed against one of the cylinders, causing a leak.

 

I have N.O.S. ++ Asbestos ++ Brake Shoes for this car and some N.O.S. ++ U S A made ++ Brake Drums... if need be.....

That's really the way to go -- Asbestos has been illegal 18 years now in the U.S. -- it is not illegal for us to interact -- these are N.O.S. and fall under the jurisdiction that they were manufactured before the statutes took effect.

People K I L L to have me find asbestos -- I have standing orders on certain numbers -- that the minute I find some -- they are already SOLD!!!!!!

Call me -- Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935... New York.....

 

Correct, the smaller (leading) shoe goes towards the front.

 

So I bought a drum brake reset gauge. So how does this work? Measure the drum, then take that same measurement to the shoes? Or back off one or a few clicks?

I havent had the drums turned yet. Want to see what size they are first. Maybe put the ones with more metal up front if they are interchangable.

 

So after replacing al the springs, shoes, cylinders, booster and master cylinder. Putting everything back correctly and measuring the drums, adjusting the shoes, the brakes work great.
I know everyone always criticized the drum brakes, but they really don’t feel that bad. The pedal travel is slightly more than disk brakes, but that’s about it.
I wonder if people sometimes compare OLD drums with NEW disk setups.
I have a 78 Eldorado with 4 wheel disks, and in regular driving, the Toronado feels pretty much the same. Maybe after a few hard stops the Toronado will fade faster, but for now, it works just fine

 

That's good that you got it working.