Converting to front disk brakes. Using GM spindles new rotors and calipers aftermarket. New brake lines from Right Stuff. Existing was manual brakes.
Do we forget about the distribution block on frame or purchase a new one with porportionning valve. should we install new rear wheel cylindes what size?
Thanks Bruce

 

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...sk-brakes.html

 

Very imformative.

As i understand we still need the porpotioning valve and distribution block. i think Right Stuff has a combo unit.
original was seperate. P.valve near brake booster. Were was dist. block located. On frame?

Do they still make parts

 

Contrary to popular belief, the 1967-70 cars did NOT use a proportioning valve. The metering valve that is mounted below the master cylinder on those cars is NOT a prop valve, it only delays the application of the front disk brakes slightly to allow time for the "slop" in the rear drum brakes to be taken up.

If the calipers and wheel cylinder are properly sized, a prop valve is not needed. Unfortunately, changes in weight distribution or other factors can disrupt this careful balance, which is why the 1971-up cars do use a prop valve, in addition to a metering valve. The combination valve in those applications incorporates the prop valve, metering valve, and the distribution block all in one housing. This is probably the better way to go, but requires more plumbing.

 

What would i need to go from manual drums to power disk brakes if i want to keep it original.

 

"Original" would have used the four piston calipers, not the newer single piston sliding calipers.

To be optically correct, you need the distribution block, metering valve, and correct master cylinder.

 

Don't throw away your old drum brake parts. We use those for C5/C6 swaps.

 

Hi Bruce, when I converted my '68 a couple of years ago I went the "optically correct" way under the hood, like Joe said using the dual-bail master & the metering valve. I kicked around buying the correct repop 4 piston calipers from Inline tube but I just couldn't justify the cost for a nice driver so I went with the single piston calipers. The '69 up style calipers, pads & hardware are so cheap & so easily available. Plus by keeping it "factory" under the hood all I had to buy was the 3 brake line set for pwr-disc brakes from Inline & bolt them in.

 

thanks Joe and Rob

should i get a booster from the parts vendors who get them from China or have an original rebuilt. Same question for MC

thanks Bruce