68 98 power brake booster removal

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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 09:02 PM
  #1  
Alg's Avatar
Alg
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68 98 convertible
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 27
From: Fairfax VA
68 98 power brake booster removal

I have a 68 98 convertible that needs a new master cylinder. Thought that while I was at it, I should also replace the power brake booster vacuum unit. I am having a problem getting wrench access to the nut on the lower inboard stud that connects the booster to the firewall. The stud is behind the steering column, and the nut is on the inside of the firewall. Does anyone have any suggestions? Do I need to peel back the rug and the padding?
Thanks, Al

Last edited by Alg; Dec 9, 2012 at 02:39 PM. Reason: I examined the booster mounting closer and got better insight
Old Dec 29, 2012 | 09:27 PM
  #2  
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Alg
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68 98 convertible
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 27
From: Fairfax VA
68 98 power booster removal

You are probably wondering why I am replying to my own post. I didn't get any replies, but did manage to remove the unit. I guess my situation was too simple for the master mechanics out there, but was quite a challenge for a first-timer like me. Thought I would offer some advice for any other green horns attempting the same repair. Peel back the carpeting as far back as you can to get a visual on the nuts. Cut out a few small segments of the firewall insulation around the nuts to provide better access for a wrench. Use a sharp knife so the insulation can be taped back in place later. Remove the kickdown switch to get better access to the pin connecting the brake pedal to the booster shaft. Use lots of Kroil to loosen up the nuts and the pin. I needed to use a punch and hammer to drive the pin out. Use plenty of patience, and do your best human pretzel act under the dash. Make sure the sockets are set square on the nuts. I was able to remove three of the nuts with a standard 9/16 socket fitted to a 1/2 in drive with extension bar and flex drive. The difficult one (directly behind the steering column) came out with an angled box wrench. Fortunately a lot of torque was not needed (thanks to the Kroil?). I had to stop several times and come back the next day when I wasn't sure what to do. (Zen and the Car Mechanic). Good luck. Al
Old Dec 29, 2012 | 09:52 PM
  #3  
MDchanic's Avatar
Connoisseur d'Junque
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
Or, if the booster is working well, just leave it alone, since they last for decades and require no maintenance at all.

- Eric
Old Dec 29, 2012 | 11:01 PM
  #4  
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Alg
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68 98 convertible
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 27
From: Fairfax VA
Eric, You are right. I did seriously consider that route (old farmers rule - if it works, don't fix it). But I knew the history on the car and knew that the booster was original (now 44 years old). Since I have some time, I decided to replace it. Now am looking for a good rebuilder who will not take my nice OEM Bendix cores and send me back Chinesium garbage. Any suggestions on a rebuilder?
Thanks, Al
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