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I hope the hub stud cutouts for the serrated studs are still in good shape - I'll address that later.
If not, there may be a similar stud with an oversize knurl. I’m sure you are not the first person to ever have this issue, and the stud manufacturers have likely addressed it.
If not, there may be a similar stud with an oversize knurl. I’m sure you are not the first person to ever have this issue, and the stud manufacturers have likely addressed it. Second option could be JB Weld or LocTite.
Valid suggestion(s). Lasagna Italiano 1st priority.
I bought this set of lug nuts from a manufacturer who specifically manufacturers lug nuts. I buy so much stuff on-line, I can't recall the manufacturer's name. Superior quality metal. If I find my purchase I'll post it.
Norm,
is this the first time you have attempted to remove the wheels?
Just wondering if the lug nuts had previously been over torqued and damaged the threads.
Absolutely not. I rebuilt the entire suspension, have rotated tires/wheels, ***** joints, blah, blah, blah. I did notice a couple studs were "questionable" and as I previously posted one of the studs on this RH front wheel was replaced by someone prior to me. It's like anything - most likely ~50 years of lug nut abuse. Come see...come saw.
You have two options if the hub is worn where the splines engage. There are studs with oversize knurls available. If that doesn't work, I've also tack welded the stud to the backside of the hub. A couple of small tacks won't cause enough of a heat-affected zone to matter.
610-105 is the stock replacement lug.
610-168 is 3/32" longer but has an 0.570" knurl of just about the same length. That's just a bit larger than the original 0.558" knurl, so it might be perfect.
Joe, thanks much for the information on the 610-168 & suggestion for a small tack. A set of (10) 610-105 are on order expected deliver this coming Thursday. I suspect a worse case scenario is a new hub+rotor assembly. I'd prefer to replace the studs as I "think" this is an OEM hub+rotor assembly even at 120K miles. I'll take some measurements when I get the hub+rotor removed to visualize how much of the rotor surface has been removed over the years. The pads look to be nearly brand new from a general overall condition POV w/o removing the caliper and pads yet. New material is most likely far less durable, thinner, etc. Thanks again.
Norm,
is this the first time you have attempted to remove the wheels?
Just wondering if the lug nuts had previously been over torqued and damaged the threads.
More specifically what I suspect is someone previously installed incorrect lug nuts once, twice or more? - but that's a hit & miss proposition. You know how shops treat wheels & studs when they mount them.
Yeah, that’s what I was referring to when theorizing about the lug nuts being over torqued. Every time I get a vehicle back from the tire shop or any wheel related work, I remove and re-torque the lug nuts. More than once it took extreme efforts to remove lug nuts, as in there would be no way for me (or the wife) to remove the lug nuts on the side of the road.
Joe, thanks much for the information on the 610-168 & suggestion for a small tack. A set of (10) 610-105 are on order expected deliver this coming Thursday. I suspect a worse case scenario is a new hub+rotor assembly. I'd prefer to replace the studs as I "think" this is an OEM hub+rotor assembly even at 120K miles. I'll take some measurements when I get the hub+rotor removed to visualize how much of the rotor surface has been removed over the years. The pads look to be nearly brand new from a general overall condition POV w/o removing the caliper and pads yet. New material is most likely far less durable, thinner, etc. Thanks again.
Norm-if the rotors don't have a groove in the center of the face on both sides, then chances are they are not OEM...just an FYI...
IIRC, old school (OEM) rotors often had a groove locator on each side and the depth of the groove was an indication of the maximum allowable amount a rotor disc could be shaved. That may be what Dave is referring to - one on each side?
IIRC, old school (OEM) rotors often had a groove locator on each side and the depth of the groove was an indication of the maximum allowable amount a rotor disc could be shaved. That may be what Dave is referring to - one on each side?
Yessir, you are correct. I made the grave mistake of replacing mine which were original because I thought the grooves were from an issue with the brakes...oh, how I wish I had known ☹️
Yessir, you are correct. I made the grave mistake of replacing mine which were original because I thought the grooves were from an issue with the brakes...oh, how I wish I had known ☹️
Wow, that’s like wanting OEM air in your tires. Replace worn parts to ensure functionality. I’ve been doing that on my car since the ‘70s.
Don - Is that OEM original or OEM equivalent (aftermarket)?
Can not confirm, only explain. We've had discussions in the past here, so I searched. Found this pic attached to past discussions. I think we all know "new" rotors don't come with this groove. I can only make an assumption that this one is probably nos.
Hi Don - Fair enough. I suspected it was OEM original but thought to ask in the chance there was a manufacturer supplying new (aftermarket) OEM equivalent (in case I should end up needing to purchase).
The rotor is not OEM but both the rotor and shoes are in exceptional/excellent condition. There exits one stud which was replaced by someone on this disc/rotor/hub assembly prior to my ownership (I've mentioned this before). Employing my new set of 7/16"-20 lug nuts the run-out of each lug nut on that new stud is perfect. Of the three (still attached) remaining studs there is no run out. My new lug nuts stop about 1/2-way & begin to bind. My other three wheels there is no issue with these new lug nuts - the run-out is as expected - clean, no binding. Albeit, the issue is w/ this one disc/rotor/hub assembly & I'll be replacing four studs. Whoever performed the last job on this assembly should have replaced more than one stud (most likely). It's folly to consider how they got this way - it's enough to validate they're toast and need replacing. Calling it a day. I sprayed the three remaining studs w/ penetrating fluid to sit overnight (or whenever I get to them next). Parts arrive on Thursday. Good splines remain on the inside disc/rotor where I drilled out the stubborn stud.
They could have damaged the threads by using a lug nut and a stack of washers to install the replacement studs. It is best to use a press for this task.
They could have damaged the threads by using a lug nut and a stack of washers to install the replacement studs. It is best to use a press for this task.
Rick
There was ONLY one replacement stud (as stated) and it is in perfect condition. The remaining three are original (as stated) plus the one I had to remove (was original).
WOW, Norm! So sorry to hear/see this thread today. I'm too late to the party at this point to be helpful in your current situation, but... A few years ago I had a similar issue removing a lug nut in a recessed well on my Ram pickup's wheel. I wound up using a hardened/carbide hole saw that was just a hair larger than the lug bolt diameter. I used the hole saw to cut away the lug nut material until I could get the wheel off. Then I flush-cut the lug bolt down to the hub surface and pressed the base of the lug bolt out. Before I got the bright idea of the hole saw, I had trashed the aluminum OEM wheel using all the tricks you tried. I had to get a new OEM wheel from the local salvage yard when I was ready to put it all back together.
Yeah - Stuff happens. Aside from some minor collateral damage to the wheel, which I can address w/ sandpaper, wire wheel & steel wool prior to some new paint it’s all good. Thanks for chiming in. Can’t make this stuff up ya know.
They could have damaged the threads by using a lug nut and a stack of washers to install the replacement studs. It is best to use a press for this task.
Rick
Rick - I wanted to apologize to you, since after re-reading my response I think I was a bit too "matter-of-fact" with you when you were only trying to be helpful. Sometimes the written word (and, I was in a hurry with my response) is easy to be misconstrue. Thanks.
