Vinyl top
#1
Vinyl top
whats up everybody
i have a 71 cutlass s with a vinyl top in pretty bad shape,so i need to remove it.i wasn't a fan of the vinyl top anyway then i a brought a 68 cutlass s hardtop an im starting to like the vinyl top because its different.does anybody know where to get vinyl tops
i have a 71 cutlass s with a vinyl top in pretty bad shape,so i need to remove it.i wasn't a fan of the vinyl top anyway then i a brought a 68 cutlass s hardtop an im starting to like the vinyl top because its different.does anybody know where to get vinyl tops
#2
whats up everybody
i have a 71 cutlass s with a vinyl top in pretty bad shape,so i need to remove it.i wasn't a fan of the vinyl top anyway then i a brought a 68 cutlass s hardtop an im starting to like the vinyl top because its different.does anybody know where to get vinyl tops
i have a 71 cutlass s with a vinyl top in pretty bad shape,so i need to remove it.i wasn't a fan of the vinyl top anyway then i a brought a 68 cutlass s hardtop an im starting to like the vinyl top because its different.does anybody know where to get vinyl tops
I got mine from SMS auto fabrics. http://www.smsautofabrics.com/ it was an exact color and pattern match to the original. Of course they are kind of pricy around $600 if I remember correctly, but well worth it.
Jon
#3
Legendary Auto Interiors are now carrying "real" levant grain vinyl tops that are like the originals. They are precut and have the correct seams like the original tops. I just checked on their website and they are $145.00. They also sell all the correct seat kits and door panels.
#6
Can anyone recommend a reliable body shop in Texas to do the work of replacing a vinyl top? I have a 69 442 with the typical cancer under the vinyl (see photos) which are slowly getting worse. My investigation into a shop in the Houston area that would do a good job has not been encouraging. Maybe someone has had good experience in Dallas area?
The paint on my car now (Topaz Poly) is excellent. I would hope that repairs could be made to the rusted spots under the vinyl without having to repaint the adjacent metal, but I sort of doubt that will be possible if the damage is severe and requires hot work.
Any advice appreciated.
The paint on my car now (Topaz Poly) is excellent. I would hope that repairs could be made to the rusted spots under the vinyl without having to repaint the adjacent metal, but I sort of doubt that will be possible if the damage is severe and requires hot work.
Any advice appreciated.
#8
Well, thanks, Jon. I owned a car just like yours about 25 years ago, and that's why I bought the one I have now....great cars. If yours was made in Canada, it might be the one I sold in 1986!
Maybe we can meet on a model train forum and I'll show you some pictures of my layout.
Maybe we can meet on a model train forum and I'll show you some pictures of my layout.
#9
Well to answer your question mine was built in Lansing, but my best friends twin to my and your car is a Canadian built Cutlass S. So maybe it is your old car. He is from Indianola, PA. Definitely let me know about the model train layout I love model trains. I wish you were closer then we would have triplets at the shows.
#10
The paint on my car now (Topaz Poly) is excellent. I would hope that repairs could be made to the rusted spots under the vinyl without having to repaint the adjacent metal, but I sort of doubt that will be possible if the damage is severe and requires hot work.
Any advice appreciated.
Any advice appreciated.
#11
Sounds like a reasonable approach. I would save on some grunt work labor by pulling the old roof off, and then act as sort of a general contractor and sub out the componments rather than look for a turn-key job.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#12
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
That is scarey looking rust bubbling. Based on the size of the 'bubbles' I'm guessing that you have total perforation and will likely need to replace more metal going into the lower skin that it looks like. Usually what you can see is less than what you can't. Don't leave it much longer - it will grow fast and be even worse to repair.
I would suggest that just about any good upholstery shop can redo your roof with the correct pattern and stitching. But I agree with others that Legendary is a good supplier and has really good reviews from other members of this site.
I would suggest that just about any good upholstery shop can redo your roof with the correct pattern and stitching. But I agree with others that Legendary is a good supplier and has really good reviews from other members of this site.
#13
I agree metal work and paint would be needed to fix it right, but...
If you keep a Texas car garaged and out of the weather you might be able to get away with a more "temporary" fix that keeps the paint intact. Pull the vinyl, sand/treat the rust (both sides if possible) and fiberglass the holes. All can be done yourself for little money. Then get new vinyl installed and you have driver quality repair that could last years. Just be honest with yourself (and any future buyer) that you made a less than optimal repair.
If you keep a Texas car garaged and out of the weather you might be able to get away with a more "temporary" fix that keeps the paint intact. Pull the vinyl, sand/treat the rust (both sides if possible) and fiberglass the holes. All can be done yourself for little money. Then get new vinyl installed and you have driver quality repair that could last years. Just be honest with yourself (and any future buyer) that you made a less than optimal repair.
#14
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
I agree metal work and paint would be needed to fix it right, but...
If you keep a Texas car garaged and out of the weather you might be able to get away with a more "temporary" fix that keeps the paint intact. Pull the vinyl, sand/treat the rust (both sides if possible) and fiberglass the holes. All can be done yourself for little money. Then get new vinyl installed and you have driver quality repair that could last years. Just be honest with yourself (and any future buyer) that you made a less than optimal repair.
If you keep a Texas car garaged and out of the weather you might be able to get away with a more "temporary" fix that keeps the paint intact. Pull the vinyl, sand/treat the rust (both sides if possible) and fiberglass the holes. All can be done yourself for little money. Then get new vinyl installed and you have driver quality repair that could last years. Just be honest with yourself (and any future buyer) that you made a less than optimal repair.
#15
Can anyone recommend a reliable body shop in Texas to do the work of replacing a vinyl top? I have a 69 442 with the typical cancer under the vinyl (see photos) which are slowly getting worse. My investigation into a shop in the Houston area that would do a good job has not been encouraging. Maybe someone has had good experience in Dallas area?
The paint on my car now (Topaz Poly) is excellent. I would hope that repairs could be made to the rusted spots under the vinyl without having to repaint the adjacent metal, but I sort of doubt that will be possible if the damage is severe and requires hot work.
Any advice appreciated.
The paint on my car now (Topaz Poly) is excellent. I would hope that repairs could be made to the rusted spots under the vinyl without having to repaint the adjacent metal, but I sort of doubt that will be possible if the damage is severe and requires hot work.
Any advice appreciated.
Last edited by Gary's 2 442-S; December 21st, 2011 at 09:13 PM.
#16
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
They have the proper grain and double stitching? I've see lots of tops on ebay but they were all the wrong color. Right grain, right stitching. Seriously thought of buying it anyway and dying it black. Then I found out what the shipping was from Florida and decided otherwise. Why is it that some of these sellers say they 'want' your business, offer lowball pricing, but charge an arm and a leg for shipping/handling? Are they losing that much on the sale that they have to "offset" their losses with shipping/handling gouging? ok, I'm done now. Sorry.
#17
Thanks to hookemhorns and gary for good suggestions. My car is a "driver"...literally, drive it almost every day. So the do-it-yourself solution is tempting. I am retired so I have lots of cheap labor available. I also plan to make a run over to Classic to get an estimate. Although not a show quality car, I would like to have the repairs done right, and it may be worth it to let a pro do the work.
Thanks, guys.
Thanks, guys.
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