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hi all - the passenger hold down on my w25 hood wont release - I believe the pin slid to one side and won’t allow it to release - someone mentioned that I should lock tight the pins to hold them in center position which I will do ... but first to get it open - anyone have any tricks or tips to getting this to release - Thanks in advance! ~ Joe R. W25 hood hold down stuck
Passenger side is not bad to get at, can be done from underneath with a long screwdriver or other implement, a light, some dexterity and patience. Driver side, forget it w/ steering box & battery. I made a tool out of steel fuel line by bending it in sort of an elongated “U” (like a distributor wrench) which allowed me to get it by removing sealed beam for access through the hole in mounting “cup.” I might have used a proctology scope for vision, can’t remember.
Others have simply taken channel locks, grabbed the **** & twisted it to break the pin. With a little padding this can probably be done without ruining the ****.
I replaced my pins with roll pins, drilled the end of the ****’s tube, tapped it & put little Allen head set screws to lock the pins on the perpendicular, haven’t had a problem in at least a decade.. The set screws are basically invisible.
Passenger side is not bad to get at, can be done from underneath with a long screwdriver or other implement, a light, some dexterity and patience. Driver side, forget it w/ steering box & battery. I made a tool out of steel fuel line by bending it in sort of an elongated “U” (like a distributor wrench) which allowed me to get it by removing sealed beam for access through the hole in mounting “cup.” I might have used a proctology scope for vision, can’t remember.
Others have simply taken channel locks, grabbed the **** & twisted it to break the pin. With a little padding this can probably be done without ruining the ****.
I replaced my pins with roll pins, drilled the end of the ****’s tube, tapped it & put little Allen head set screws to lock the pins on the perpendicular, haven’t had a problem in at least a decade.. The set screws are basically invisible.
I was able to get my pin pushed back enough to turn the ****. I used sevral pairs of pliers, iirc the long needle nose w the bend did the trick. It helps if someone ontop can workthe **** while you get the pin from below. As noted pass side ie easier and doable.
Passenger side is not bad to get at, can be done from underneath with a long screwdriver or other implement, a light, some dexterity and patience. Driver side, forget it w/ steering box & battery. I made a tool out of steel fuel line by bending it in sort of an elongated “U” (like a distributor wrench) which allowed me to get it by removing sealed beam for access through the hole in mounting “cup.” I might have used a proctology scope for vision, can’t remember.
Others have simply taken channel locks, grabbed the **** & twisted it to break the pin. With a little padding this can probably be done without ruining the ****.
I replaced my pins with roll pins, drilled the end of the ****’s tube, tapped it & put little Allen head set screws to lock the pins on the perpendicular, haven’t had a problem in at least a decade.. The set screws are basically invisible.
Thanks! That did the trick - light and needle nose did the trick - was close to losing that lock down 😳 - I used lock tight for now to help hold them but I am interested in your roll pin - drill - tap - Allen head idea - any pictures for reference? Thanks again! Success! Hoods up - car used zero oil in almost 200 miles Pins was a little bent - this is the same side I had an issue with before - I straightened it out and used lock tight to help hold it - will look into reinforcing the pin better when it’s cooler outside
Happy to take a pic or 2 if you PM me your email or # to send text as I am “challenged” posting photos (its a curse!). You can then post it up. A very knowledgeable Olds weenie would be the only person to spot this fix and even that would likely happen only by stumbling upon it.
If you look at the close up of the pin you’ll see it is appx 1/2” or so from the bottom of the **** “post” or extension. In the bottom of that post there is a recess/countersink on the end. I drilled up the post from that recess until intersecting the pin hole, tapped it and ran Allen head set screw up to secure the pin.
Happy to take a pic or 2 if you PM me your email or # to send text as I am “challenged” posting photos (its a curse!). You can then post it up. A very knowledgeable Olds weenie would be the only person to spot this fix and even that would likely happen only by stumbling upon it.
If you look at the close up of the pin you’ll see it is appx 1/2” or so from the bottom of the **** “post” or extension. In the bottom of that post there is a recess/countersink on the end. I drilled up the post from that recess until intersecting the pin hole, tapped it and ran Allen head set screw up to secure the pin.
thank you! I will PM you when I figure out how to do that lol - (i’m in the same boat with this Tech stuff)- my car is not #s matching so I don’t mind minor improvements like you mentioned (though I like to keep it as original looking as possible) I think I’m understanding what you did by your last paragraph but would still like to see a pic - thanks! ~ Joe R.
