Pass. side w25 hood pin slid to one side and won't allow hood lock to pop up after untwisting; driver side unlocks fine. How do I access the pass side hood pin to release hood lock? Help please. Thanks

 

Yup, welcome to the club. This has happened to most of us with a W-25 hood at one time or another. In my case I had to carefully pry up on that side of the hood until the spring pin bent enough to get the hood open, then of course I had to replace the pin. After that I made it a habit of periodically checking the spring pins for movement. Good luck.

 

When it happened to me I was able to access the pin from below w a pair of long reach needle nose 45* pliers it took a long time but was able to draw the pin the rest of the way out by bending it and pulling

 

Yup, it happen to me but 2 years ago. What I did was I jack the body up until the right side wheel is off the ground, took the right wheel off and then the wheel well. I crawl into the engine bay and use a long skinny screwdriver to push the pin in. I finally got the hood open. Its a good thing I'm skinny. I took the pin off and use a ball peen hammer and mushroomed the middle part of the pin and install it back into the hood pin. Has not loosen off yet.

 

Ugh - that happened to me about 10 years ago. I messed with mine off and on for a couple weeks and finally cut it off with a Dremel from above. I like RetroRanger's idea better. Good luck!
Terry

 

GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Like ELY442, jacked up, took pass wheel off, loosened wheelwell, used ratchet strap to twist wheelwell into pretzel, used my skinny frame to shimmy halfway into engine bay, and used long screwdriver to pop pin back to middle. Will fix problem now and also monitor regularly (thanks Joe). Ugh, and I play with these cars for fun?!?

Thanks everyone for your input.

 

You guys put way too much work into this problem. There's an easier way. I can't claim credit for this approach; a friend showed me when mine was stuck.

Assuming your latches still have the original, soft-steel, splined, solid pins (not a hard, spring-steel, roll pin), all you need to do is grab a large channel-lock pliers or other clamping leverage tool and use it to twist the chrome **** from above, just as you would with your hand. Of course, use a rag or something else to protect the chrome.

The original pins are much softer than the steel bracket on your core support. The pin will bend or break and let you open the hood, at which point you replace it.

 

Be glad it was the passenger side!
I had driver side stick, made an implement from 5/16 tubing & worked it from headlight cup hole. Battery & steering box are killers. BlackGold just taught me something.

I ended up removing pins, drilling & tapping end of **** "rod" and putting an Allen head set screw in each "rod" to really lock the pin in place so it is very unlikely to ever move.

 

That's a great idea. Ever since I replaced the original soft pin with a spring-steel roll pin I've known that the next time the pin moves I probably won't be able to use the same brute-force method again.

 

Just had this happen to me and I can't figure out how. My pins are the newer type, so the cross pin on mine is welded solid to the main pin, and thus cannot move it's position. So, how in the hell could it get out of alignment enough not to come back through the core bracket slot? Anyone have a different method to resolving this other than what has already been offered in this thread? Many thanks!!

 

And i thought I was the only one.

I drilled and tapped to add a set screw from bottom.
Also I changed to a solid pin with a flats so it will not slide.

Lock tight set screw !

I still always check out of habit.

 

I finally got the hood open by pulling up on the hood until the cross pin bent! Turns out my pins where not welded as i first thought, but are like original and moved to the right. What a poor design. This set of hood locks have only been on the car for about 500 miles. When these cars were new owners must have been pisses dealing with this all the time!

With the hope of preventing another episode I applied some Gorilla Super Glue to the cross pin on both locks!

 

Have not had this happen on mine but I will definitely make sure the pins cant slide, thanks for the heads up.

 

Wow, never thought of that happening before. Lucky enough that I have not had that happen.

 

Thanks for sharing

 

Every time I open the hood I check mine, just habit by now. I bent them down a bit on each end so that they don't move as much but over time they still slide over too far to one sire.

 

I just had this happen to me about a month ago. Sprayed WD40 and crawled underneath and tried to hit it with a yard stick. Eventually got it out and now check.

 

This just happened to me; sprayed w/penetrant and kept wiggling and after 1.5 hr the pin just slid out. I'm wondering about just opening up the bracket a bit. When its locked, the spring keeps it 90 deg away from that--can't see why a bigger opening would be a problem. Thoughts?

 

If you have them, I would ensure that your cross pins cannot move. - I had the left pin shift once a few years ago. Got lucky by just wiggling the tie down for a few minutes and the cross pin shifted back into position. I compressed the shafts of the tie down to help lock that cross pin into position, but it still has a little play. I also bent the cross pin down some, it helped some. I was just messing with both tie down cross pins, again ...... last weekend because one felt odd when I twisted down.

It is time to drill the tie down shafts and install some sort of lock pin or a new oversize cross pins, or something so they are never going to shift over.!

 

One shifted on me again (took about a year since the last time it happened..., .the pin just dragged a little, but got it to release.... Time to drill and tap for a socket set screw ...

 

Installed the sets screws and they worked perfect. Should have done this years ago. -