jellish

I didn't know of a better way to describe this, but basically the area where the chrome fender trim would go. Like a lot of people, I'm not a huge fan of the chrome trim on my 68 Cutlass, and plan on deleting this part. I don't, however, want to be left with the large indentations where the trim goes, and would instead like to shave that area flush. Any suggestions on the best way to go about this? Thanks!

rocketscientis

Used to think you couldn't beat lead....how th factory finnished roof to q/p seam
HOWEVER am most impressed with th glue used now
GLEUED rocker panels on a truck while ago
Make doughnut holes with 3-4 fingers outa material thick enough it will ride hi over panels surface & grind flush takin care not to instill to much heat as sheet metal warps terribble


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JohnnyBs68S

If you modify the sheet metal to make it flush, the plastic wheel well won't line up since they tuck inside the lip and bolt to the fender from the inside of the lip. I'd recommend any welding in that area to cover up that concave section be done w/ the wheel well removed / detached to prevent it from melting.

IMO, the chrome trim on a '68-'69 442 or Cutlass S not only makes the car "pop", its what makes cars from the late '60s unique. I'd try a photoshop of that photo to see how removing that concave section would look before I'd cut any metal. If the fender is in good shape w/ little rust, it'd be a shame to ruin perfectly good fenders. If they are rusty around the wheel opening, chop away.

allyolds68

I can't figure out why you'd want to remove that area unless you wanted to put 25's on it

jellish

I thought I explained why, but basically I don't like the chrome wheel arches and I think the indentation with nothing there also looks weird. Here is a good example of what I prefer (altho I think this is a Delmont 88):

allyolds68

So you want to flatten the area under your yellow line?

I've never seen it done on a 68-69. As long as you modify the inner fender as well you could certainly get a larger tire in there. The 70-72's actually have more room for a rear tire than the 68-69's do because of that indentation

jellish

Yes that's correct. I will likely be narrowing the frame/doing a minitub to get more meat on the rear, but to be honest this is more a visual desire than a mechanical one. I just assumed someone had done it before so could give me some advice, but if not I can just start welding and see where it goes

chopolds

The indent you want to eliminate is a bit large, so using a shrinker/stretcher to make a new replacement piece may be out of the question. You could cut out some sheet metal, the shape to fill the arch, making it about 3/4" longer on the inside of the arch, then "tip" the shape of the wheel opening onto it. Then cut and weld. It's a bit tricky, and you'd have to be careful welding, as it's pretty flat there, and it would tend to warp REAL easy. If you don't understand what "tipping" is: It's a method of putting a bend on a panel, that is curved, so you can't just bend it in a brake, or hammer over a piece of angle iron. You can do it on a bead roller, the easiest way. If you have one, you'll know. The "manual" method is to mark your opening on the metal, then using a Vice Grip, slowly grab and bend the area the Grips hold about 10* or so. Just a little bit. Continue around the whole arch, then start over again, just bending it a tiny bit more. By working slowly, you will minimize the amount of distortion you put into the flat part of the panel. It might take 6-10 times around the arch, but eventually you will get it to 90*, and have a wheel well opening. I have s set of Vice Grips that I slightly rounded off the edges, so it wouldn't put dents at the edges of my bends.

Gpc1

Why ruin perfectly good fenders by welding on sheet Metal? I would just grind it down and fill it since it’s only about 1/4 inch. At least you can grind it back off if you don’t like it or change your mind in the future.
jmo...

Toro X6

If I understand what you're saying, you want the "Toronado-look." Those gen1 fenders/quarters have the wheel-well bulges, but without the concave section beneath them.



If Toronado fenders/quarters were plentiful, you might be able to use the flat section to graft onto your Cutlass and save some fabrication time...

Keep us posted if you're able to carry out the modification one way or another.

coppercutlass

You could leave the existing area unmolested. Buy some modern fenders that match the radius from an after market vendor that carries non caps parts . usually can buy fenders for 25 bucks or so. And then not braze it on and finish it with a little filler. This does 2 things. If someone wants to undo it all you gotta do is grind it off. But ! Since the silicon bronze and thinner sheet metal is softer it will come off without hurting the original fender. The area is so thin that the thinner modern material won't sound hollow. I did something similar on a motorcycle my buddy was building.

Jeff99

I agree. Leave that indent, find replacement fenders or patch panels for that area and cut out the area needed and weld in .. little filler, primer and paint. And everyone will wonder what’s different about your car .. I say go for it

jellish

Thanks for all the advice guys! Lots of good ideas here and I appreciate them. For those of you worried about the originals, this car was really rusty so I doubt anyone would be interested in saving the panels. I think what I might end up doing though is some foam and fiberglass to get that Toronado look @Toro X6 mentioned. That way it can easily come off again if I ever want to get back to the old rusted fenders.

Thanks again! You guys are great. I will post here with progress and on the site for the car (www.customcutlass.com)