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Just pulled the carpet out of my 71 442 and found a rusty floor. See picture. How is everyone taking care of issues like this. After descaling the rust, do I use a rust converter like SEMs Rust Mort or do I I use a cold galvanizing paint or both?
Interested to hear suggestions on this one! I'd say a rust encapsulator would be best. Pour15 or something like that, Eastwood Automotive has a lot of options.
I've been doing some reading and I still have questions. The POR-15 looks like a great product, but after watching videos on how to apply the coating I am not sure if I can prep the metal properly. The directions say to use their degreaser, then wash off with water, then use their metal prep solution and rinse off. Since this is inside the car and a natural spot were liquid would pool I'm wondering how I would rinse properly.
That being said why couldn't I use a scaling tool to remove loose rust, then apply a good rust "converter"? Then top coat with whatever I want. That way there's no water to worry about. The floor is still solid. So I'm hoping to get this done with as little a mess of the interior as possible. Any opinions on the subject would be greatly appreciated.
Hey was watching what others would say , always looking for new tricks, I cleaned more floor with a 4 inch angle grinder and a rope wheel ( wire rope wheel) I would start this way
1. get a wire brush and brush as much loose rust as possible do this in sections, drivers side front drivers side rear, passenger front, passenger rear, get a shop vac and clean as you go
2. definitely wear eye and respiratory protection
3. re examine the floor , look for pinholes, thin metal etc you can put a drop light in the area and look from underneath etc
4. If your still solid , I would get some 36-40 grit paper and go over the quadrants again , I would use an electric da sander as the noise from compressor and da will make you nuts after awhile ( my compressor was located in garage) you can attach a vacuum hose to most da sanders , you may need some scrapers etc to remove adhesives or in my case seam sealers etc which I reapplied or will reapply after , if the sealer is in good shape and floors are still solid leave it, unless doing a concours resto
5. give a good vacuum again , look at floor again, if still good , I used lacquer thinner and some shop cloths , I wiped down whole area ( quadrants) , then wipe down with a paint prep cleaner use the blue paper towels they don’t leave as much fuzzies
6 blow off area there should be no debris dust etc, wipe with a tack cloth , and apply your pot 15 wear rubber gloves as this stuff doesn’t come off , the area doesn’t have to be free from rust but it does need to have a fairly rough surface to grip , you can apply a second coat when the por15 is nearly dry but still a little tacky , let dry thoroughly,
7. now you will put your sound deadener in if your spraying an adhesive scuff the por15, you would also have prepped any seams that you have removed the sealer I used Eastwood brush on .
8. when I did the underside of my floors I used the por15 intercoat primer it brushed on and required sanding afterwards and was a lot of work. Not sure you need to go this far for something that will have carpet over it .
In the past I’ve just used a wire wheel on a drill to clear scale. After wiping it down with some acetone it’s taken Por-15 well and lasted for as long as I’ve owned.
I think a good roll of dynamat or other sound deadener aids in protection as well as Eddie said.
id used a needle scaler IF you’re sure the metal isn’t weak. They are great put will find a thin or weak spot in the floor really quick!
