Freebeer

Has anyone used any of the rust prevention products that are supposed to attack rust and neutralize it? A body shop employee suggested I hit the inside of my fenders, inside of hood (through the front access holes etc.) with the stuff to ward off potential rust problems in the future. I know it is some sort of water based acid product that sticks to rust and creates a paintable surface if used on undercarriage etc. Thanks

Alb

There are alot of different products out there to use. POR-15 for one. The one that I like for painting over is made by Permatex. It comes in a spray car. (79DA) I used it on my floor of my car and painted over it. I used the POR-15 in places where it didn't matter if the surface was smooth to be painted over. It can be a little messy and make sure that you don't get it on your skin as it willbe there for a week. Trust me I know. Hope this helps.
Alb

Rickman48

This guy is talking about Metel Prep - used it with great success over the years.
Does work as described, find it at body shop supply stores.

Tedd Thompson

I worked in the coatings industry for 43 years ( not automotive) and we used a product called Rust Destroyer by Advance Chemical which has a rust converter, it converts red oxide to black oxide plus it is a high build primer all in one.It was used in the oil industry, pipe lines and,bridge structures and such and could be top coated in 72 hours with most any hot solvent top coat or epoxy. It was a spray brush or roll product and was bullet proof once cured. I would think it would cross over well in to automotive uses as well, Rust is rust no mater what surface it's on .I have sold literal thousands of gallons of this product without problems...Tedd

PS I have no monetary interest in any sales of this product I am very retired.

Freebeer

Thanks...I figure it can't hurt anything as long as I target the surface rust. I have heard good reports on this.

bdub217

Is Rust Destroyer sandable? or does it go on thin as paint? I have some superficial spots on the driver's side that i want to touch up, the biggest one being 2x2"

oldsguybry

I'll have to look in to this . How is the availability of this product ?

mojonitro

Most "rust converters" change the Iron Oxide to an Iron Phosphate, which is very accepting of paint , with great adhesion. The problem is, if you convert the rust, then sand, you sand off the conversion coating, and reveal bare steel again.
Been working for 30 years as an electroplating/metal finishing engineer, and I've painted powdercoated a lot of phosphated surfaces with great success.
Jim

jfb

I finished my 71 using a lot of por 15. I first grinded or sanded down surface rust mostly on the frame and front control arms to as little there that was left then i por 15ed it. I would highly recommened that all other panels be cut into clean metal and patched or be replaced it is your baby and you want a lasting job overall and not have to do it a 2nd time somewhere down the road it will cost more overall the 2nd time and if you have to use clean rust free used parts alabama arizona etc.

Nilsson

Use Purple Power, you can get it at Advance Auto Parts. I used it and it works very well and the price is right.

oldsguybry

I'll check into that , thanks

Houston_t

Isnt Purple Power a degreaser ?

Nilsson

They also make a rust converter that also is a primer/etcher that can be painted over. It is the same company.

Intragration

I've used a lot of POR15. I like it and it works well, but there are some issues when using it. First, it is a bit messy as Alb said. Alcohol will remove it from your skin when it's fresh, but after that, it does stick around. If it gets on your floor and you don't notice it, it's permanent. It's reactive to UV, and will change colors if exposed to sunlight. I doesn't stick well to clean smooth metal, it bonds great to rust but needs a rough surface if it's going on other areas. If painting over it, it's very smooth and paint won't want to stick. You can scuff it, but it's very tough. They suggest a misting of primer before it cures. It does take a while to cure, 4+ hours. I've also used the Permatex rattle can stuff, and I was happy with that too. It didn't seem to have the limitations of POR15, but I haven't used it as much.