One last pic. This is the top flange of the rocker, where the QP was spot welded to it. I used the air file to remove the rest of the weld foils. It leaves me with a good surface to use a panel bonding adhesive, without a bunch of holes if I had drilled out the spot welds.

 

I think their was a water drain..maybe on the end of fender...I cleaned and primed with the rocker...new top and bottom rocker...Iam pretty sure thier was a drain were the top bottom rocker met to let water and condisation dry out...anywho...I put my 3/16?? Holes in qp flange and welded it in ..same as it came out...I went through the window(quarter window) to spot weld to the rocker..I've never used adhesive on something like this but have used it on door skins on newer vehicles...how would you put pressure on it to set the clue?? Keep up the good work...maybe someone will chime in on the glue usage...maybe you could use it on the whole panel??? Crankit

 

Great tip on accessing that weld point. I have had that interior window access panel removed, so I understand what you are saying. So I’ll take a look.

I am considering using panel bond on the whole panel, at once. I am studying it. 3M says you can use both the adhesive and spot welds together. Spot welding is done immediately after setting and clamping the parts together. Harbor Freight has a cheap spot welder for $160. I would consider it a throwaway tool. If it gets me through two QP’s then I’ll call it success. No way to clamp that bottom flange to the rocker that I see? But if they fit well, and all the force is downward anyway, I will still use the adhesive, if just merely to seal out water from getting between the two flanges. There was some type of factory sealant present when I took it apart. Have a good day Crankit!

Here is a 3 minute 3M vid on panel adhesives. A good starting point for anyone not familiar.

 

Very informative video on panel bond...I guess iam old school...today's unibody vehicles have no were near the torque old frame cars have...400 horse twisting that frame pushing up and down on the rubber tbodymounts? I look at my pillar post at least 10 spots to the rocker now hang a heavy *** door that attaches to the striker pin and torque that frame ...I just dont see the adhesive working for longevity ...but that's what these forums are for disguising and learning..I bought one of those 160$$spot welders 20 yrs ago.. little modification and I still works,buy some new tips the ones on it are pretty crappy...crankit...

 

If you roll the window up and you have interior panels off you can reach down inside and use some self drilling screws to clamp in place. You could even punch some holes on bottom lip of qp and plug weld after the screws get it tight. I did it on a 70 442 all at factory attaching points. I had all my glass and tracks out.

 

3M also has a Structural rated adhesive. Part number 07333/57333. They caution that you have to be careful where you use it. During crashes joints are designed to absorb crash stresses and this 3M will over build the joint beyond what their panel bonding stuff (part 08115). I am thinkin at this point I will use the 07333 along with spot welds more like 5” apart. Just for the heck of it, I counted up spot welds number on that QP and it was 255.

Yes, those ideas I think will work. Hoping this week that I get a start on fitting up the parts. If the joint to the rocker looks good, I will likely just use the struc adhesive. It will be located well at front and rear areas by clamping and spot welds. Thanks for posting, both of you.

I have been welding stuff for almost 60 years. Have used Stick, Gas, TIG, and MiG. But never owned a MIG or TIG setup myself. Used my employers stuff. Finally talked myself into buying one of the new multiprocess welders. Think I have settled on the Lincoln Power MIG215.


for TIG setup

 

This is a great thread I check for updates every day thanks! I am about 1 month behind you. I was able to remove the top in its entirety to get it out of the way, I hope to re use it it is in pretty good shape just needs rear tack strip.


Unbolted rain gutter, and the two bolts holding rear floating tack strip bow. Drilled two 1/8” locating holes in each side bracket so they can go back in same spot, then removed the 3 body bolts in each bracket.

Top slid forward and rear lifted up to get tack strip bow clear of body.

Tack strip bow clear of body.


Collapsed top to store while working on quarters.

 

FlameOrange that is some nice work getting the vert top off and out of the way. I would have preferred to do that as well. I looked at it a little, but didn’t find any good info on the removal procedure so just covered it up and moved forward. Worst part was the lead melt out, and I think it really has to be melted out and wire brushed away to see the spot welds.

I am happy to know that you find some value in this thread. Over a thousand views so others are learning and helping me as well. Crankit is inspiring me to try and do my best work.

Keep posting progress! I spent some of yesterday cleaning up flanges, surface rust, and brushing on some DTM primer where I could. Interesting that these cars were built with uncoated steel in so many places, and just ambient humidity has rusted them. So trying to to make it better than it was originally built. Iowa isn’t kind to cars with horrible summer humidity and the real killer is winter salted roads. Hardly any 70’s era cars are even still here anymore. I was fortunate that my car lived mostly in Arizona, and a short while in Iowa where I am sure the QP wheel area damage happened. Just really glad it didn’t get into the Rockers areas.

 

Keeper rolling....I wish mine didnt get into the rockers thats when you have put in the bracing also cutting out floors is a picnic(NOT)....cant wait to see those nice straight qps... bonding I dont know..bonding and welding I like I use a little lincoln 140 110 volt had it for years well worth the extra dollars...keep up the progress ...wish I could come over to help...be like dejavoo....crankit
I also put sound deadner on wheel arches inside qp..floors trunk doors...just to keep it alittle more quite....crankit

 

Mine is a Canadian sold and owned car, we get it all as you described, winter snow, slush, salt…
My car has had no winters since I bought it in 1982, and it was off the road for 27 years, … it still needs quarters and I am putting a new frame underneath….😦.
But I will be back on the road late 2025, just in time to put it away for another winter 🤣
cheers, ill keep following..

 

On that seam between the Qtr Pnl & rear filler panel - in addition to any spot or plug welds on the flange inside the trunk, I found out long ago to weld that seam solid along the whole exterior seam. Decades ago we made the mistake of removing the lead & thinking filler (All-Metal, “Bondo,” seam sealer, or whatever) would work, but in my experience it will end up cracking. After the welding is finished off, you’re safe to smooth the corner with filler. Even the cars, “A” or “F” bodies, with visible seams (not like your convertible that is smoothed) should be done the same way, then cut a faux seam into whatever filler is used to level the joint/panels.

Alternately, it could be re-leaded, but that takes some ability, or find a grizzled old body man that still has his leading tools and is willing to do it. They’re all but extinct.

Just a few tips from 35 year auto body guy that learned a few lessons, some the hard way!

…

 

Hi bccan... that's exactly what I did the second time of doing it.. in between that time I learned how to lead which is how the final panel was put in...so something about a grizzled old ....hey wait a min thats me..LOL...time does fly...glad to me ya....crankit...
..

 

Thanks to both of you for explaining means and methods, and reasons why to do the joint a particular way. So that others following along understand what you are saying, this is the area you are talking about, I believe.


Just bought my new toy yesterday. Lincoln 215 multiprocess welder. So building a welding cart today to hold it, a tank, and a Thermal Dynamics plasma cutter. I can then move the old Lincoln buzz box to a new home and this will be how I finish my life for welding machine. So I can weld this seam solid, no problem. And I would like to lead it as well, as the seam really happens about a quarter inch or so below plane of the top. So it will take considerable filler. Afraid it is gonna be Everlast Gold for me on this. I have studied leading enough to know it is the best, but has to be done correctly and that isn’t easy for me, since I’ve never done it at all.

It is also worth noting for others following that this isn’t just two panels meeting. There is heavy gauge substructure directly below, and the two panels were also spot welded to that as well. So the first thing to do will be to slide the new QP between this heavy structure and the saved rear panel, attach the QP by plug or spot welding to the heavy structure, and then finish the joint by laying the rear panel edge down on top of the QP and welding it solid.

Straighten me out if I am wrong!

Thanks gentlemen! And think of it this way, you are not just helping me out with this, but all those that will one day find themselves doing the same thing.

 

You can learn to lead ,as bccan said nothing holds that seam without cracking...I've used them all , last time was jb weld to try for giggles didnt last to long cracked after a few mashing the go pedal..so another redo!!! I learned to lead in the mean time...but it not something your gonna do every day...so dont know if it's worth learning but hey he's some pics of that area...so can be done...crankit

 

Thanks for sharing your wisdom. If I am understanding you correctly, you say weld it solid, after first spot or plug welding both panels to the heavy gauge substructure. Once that is done, the area can be filled with a plastic filler, such as All Metal (aluminum dust in a resin) or a polyester filler.

The better option is hot leading the joint.

 

Well, at first I didn’t think I could pull a whole QP and you convinced me that I should and could. Looks like I am gonna make it through that adventure. Studying what I can find on leading looks like I’ll need quite a tool and material inventory. The biggest concern I have is all the open flame heat I will need to use with the conv top still on the car. I read a lot, and found many mentions of lead joint failure, usually related to acid flux bubbling or insufficient cleaning. So even leading does not appear to be foolproof. Today finishing up welding cart and back on the Project probably tomorrow.

 

I think you misunderstood...almost every one of those seams filled with any kind of solid filler will eventually crack...the lead seam is somewhat flexible...mine was done solid welded after three or 4 failed attempts using various fillers...therefore solid weld was used..after you weld to sub structure a thin peice of sheet metal is welded in between the valley of the two peices I tiged mine in watching heat warpage!! This filler peice sits just below the surface of the two panels and bridges that gap so you dont have 1/2 inch of lead
in the fill ..then its leaded(slightly flexable) to keep it from cracking due to body flex...and you will still see some cars that still get hair line crack in the paint ...for why I dont know I have repaired and released a few...years ago lead was lead(pb) now its mixed with alot of other metals and they call it body solder? Go figure...I think this why it fails on body seams of classic..I have both , the solder is easier to work with lead is a little more finicky needs to be clean clean clean....well anyway welding solid and the peice in the gap means less thickness of filler which means less chance of cracking...(hope fully) well keep the progress going post some pics and mostly HAVE FUN..its all good..crankit

 

Crankit….I definitely did misunderstand. I didn’t realize you were using an additional piece of metal that spans the valley between panels. I took out about 3/16” of lead. So I think there is room for another layer of metal. I’ll measure it up once the new panel is in place.

I am most certainly having fun with the car. I think it is my connection to a time in my life that was really good. But finding time to work on this car is sometimes hard. Finally got the new welder cart mostly done and setting up the welder today. Found out I had a bad gas regulator so another trip to town for a new one. Birthday party 150 miles away tomorrow. So probably Monday before I start cutting on the wheelhouse. But I’m just itching to get going on it. Should be able to make good progress next week.


used scrap metal. Just bought wheels only.

Got the welder up where I can see the control panel. Going to fire it up for first time right now.

 

Excellent!!! Its hard to find people with a passion...as you said it takes us back.
...I've had older friends that absolutely were acting like teenagers and wanted to fork over money for the car
..iam glad I didnt sell...just have a blast get stuck gimme a shout...crank.it..ps.and yes that little peice welded in brings it almost flush little wiff of metal to metal ...hopefully no cracks...if it does I'll fly to Iowa and lead it my damn self!!!LOL..
crankit