Wanting to know how to proceed on cleaning (ive hand washed already) the paint on a 1958 olds 88, 2 tone pink, i want to clean it, and ive been told not to wax it? It's in unbelievably great condition, no rust , no sun fading.... just needs cleaned and protected..

 

If the paint still has a gloss finish, a good carnauba wax will work great in preserving the paint. 0000 steel wool and soapy water works wonders on chrome that has a tiny bit of surface rust. Post some pictures of it when you get a chance.

 

Claybar and Megs #7.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-phillips.html

 

Be careful if you try buffing with power tools. Hand polishing with a good Carnuba wax will make it shine. Maybe wash it a couple times to make sure all the dirt is removed first. That would be a cool color combination.

 

I suggest you hire an auto detailer to buff the paint before waxing it. Hand waxing is a separate process from buffing with power tools.

If you're interested in learning how to buff with power tools it's not difficult or expensive. Just make sure you practice on your daily driver first. I buffed 3 daily drivers and my 86 Ford f250 before I had the courage to use the buffer on my Olds. Here are some good products.




https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-5...psugg_q=buffer

 

x2 on the use of a clay bar. I would think anyone who restores automobile exterior finishes regularly/professionally would say "Use a clay bar!"

From Page 3, Sep 2010 issue of Car Collector Chronicles
https://www.scribd.com/document/3668...ronicles-09-10

PUT A SHINE ON THAT BABY!

Let’s start at the beginning. The first thing to do is wash the car. Sounds simple
enough, right? In may ways, it is. The only point I would make is don’t waste your time
and money using any soap product that says it will, in addition to cleaning the surface,
give your car a shine. This is because whatever shine it may impart is only going to
have to be removed as you progress with the exterior detailing process.

Now that you have you car washed, what is next? Wash it again! Why? With the
first wash you have only hit the high spots, and moved the dirt around. The 2nd wash ensures
that hard to remove, and overlooked, grime does not remain to mar the rest of
your work.

With the car thoroughly washed the next step is claying the car.
I must admit that claying a car was a new concept to me. I did not understand what it
did, or how. Nor is what it does readily discernible to the naked eye. I subsequently
learned that claying removes pollution deposits, oxidants and contaminants that attach
to the finish, making it difficult to clean and polish the paint. To clay a car one uses a
clay bar, readily available at any auto parts store. It actually looks like, and has the texture
of silly putty. Remember that? Shape the bar into a form convenient for you to use.
Have at the ready a spray bottle filled with warm water and no more than a smidgen of
plain, simple, unadulterated, liquid hand soap. Spray a small area and begin running the
clay bar in strokes over it. When you do so, you may notice the bar picking up minute
flecks of contaminants. Knead the bar when you want a clean working surface. As you
progress, you will notice the drag on the clay bar lessening. When done properly, the
car surface will actually become very slippery. It will also begin, minimally, to look better.

Finally, after all this, you are ready to begin applying chemicals. The first is a paint
cleaner. This chemical removes swirls in the paint, fine scratches and other imperfections.
It does not put a shine on the car. To apply it a medium-coarse buffing pad is
used. You can tell which one is medium-coarse by the color. In my case, that color is
yellow. Place the liquid on the pad and smear it over the working area, without having
the buffer running. Use the buffer at a medium speed, and keep it flat on the surface.
Run the buffer over the working area in opposite directions, working the chemical into
the paint. Do not let it dry. Once you observe the resulting haze is diminishing, it is time
to remove it. To do so, place a microfiber bonnet over a dry pad and buff the area clean.
Again, here you will notice some improvement in appearance, but it is far from what you
are seeking, and will have when the whole job is completed.

Now that the paint is clean, it is ready to be glazed, or polished. What glazing does is
fill in any uneven surface areas, as well as make the paint pop. Use a fine, for me white
colored, pad for this step. You will definitely notice a difference now. Your paint will now
exhibit depth, luster and sheen, which is what all this hard work has been about.

The choice of a sealer, like all the other chemicals, is myriad. (I have found the Meguiar’s™ line
of products perform admirably.) You want a product that does one thing, and one thing only, seals
the surface. You do not need one that cleans, polishes or waxes. You have already done that!
For this step, I use an ultra-fine, black colored pad. On this stage, less works better than more.
What you need to know is, a quality sealer takes time to harden, before it can protect the surface.
How much time? It depends on the temp, but 24 to 48 hours is not unusual. During this hardening
time the finish is most vulnerable. So, avoid touching it, or exposing it to the elements. Let the
sealer cure. When it has, you are protected for 6 months to a year.

Sit back and admire a job well
done. You have earned that right!

 

I've done a bunch of old neglected cars. Once I wash them a couple of times with Dawn dish soap, I'll usually go to a clay bar. Sometimes a couple of clay bars have to die before I move to the next step. After that, if it's single stage, like around before 1986, it's important to feed it oils with a glaze like Megs #7.