Is the crankshaft damper bolt on a 69 455 right or left thread ? with the motor out and partially torn down what is the best way to remove the bolt ?

 

regular threads. I just use a good quality air impact gun. wimpy impacts will not likely get the job done.

 

Or a big damn wrench, like I did. >.>

 

You will need to hold the flexplate/flywheel from moving, or the engine will turn if you use a regular wrench. They make a tool that can hold the flexplate, but you can use vice grips as long as you don't break a tooth or bend the plate.

 

Remember, that bolt is supposed to be tightened to 160 lb MINIMUM, so if it loosens without blocking the flexplate, it wasn't tightened properly. My engine developed a terrible vibration and the whole front end bounced up and down at trafic lights. Previous owner had changed the timing chain and I am guessing he tightened the bolt only until the engine started turning. Not near 160 lb. It totally tore up my balancer, widening the slot for the crank key to over 1/2 inch and it was wobbling big time. Fortunately I caught it before it damaged the crankshaft snout.

 

Thanks for the replys. What I'm hearing is quality impact driver first and if that doesn't work I will have to rebolt the flywheel ( which is damaged anyway and expendable) and brace it or clamp it with vise grips.

The motor is on a stand but I might be able to get the flywheel back on.

Would the idea of running a few grade 8 bolts into the flywheel bolt holes and bracing that with a long pipe to stop rotation sound wise ?

 

I hate impact guns because they stress the bolts a lot. Usually there is a deep balancing hole in the crank and you can put a long 1/2" drive extension in it to block the crank. Use a 1-1/8" socket and a long breaker bar.

 

The bolt idea would probably do it.

The idea is to take the bolt off with as much of the engine assembles as possible, so that the combined inertia of the components and compression provide enough resistance for the impact wrench to spin it off.

With a good impact wrench it's easy. Without one, it's hard.

- Eric

 

Success, it came loose with a straight bar and about 4 pops with a hammer. Easy enough to make me think it was not torqued to 160

No broken bolts or bones equals a good day.

Thanks to all who responded

 

OK, so now that the damper bolt is off the next problem is a stubborn oil filler tube that does not want to come off.

It seems ironic that the oil filler tube would be more time consuming to remove than the damper.

So any tips on yankin that tube out would be appreciated.

One other interesting note . During teardown when I pulled the heads there was water/anti freeze in 3 5 7 and 8. The gaskets show no breaks or signs of a blown head gasket but I'm a bit concerned. The cylinders look great and the motor ran fine when pulled. I did not drain the block prior to teardown so I'm hoping that water entered the cylinders as I loosened the heads.

 

BINGO...

For the filler tube, Not sure this is the right way but i use a rubber hammer and bump it back and forth lifting up on it till it comes out. Some times i have to bump it pretty good. I never had a problem with them still fitting tight when i reinstall them but most of the time i also smear just a little RTV around it before i install it.

 

I have used a rubber mallett on it I'll just whack it a bit harder. I just wanted to sure there is no hidden set screw or the like before I beat it to death.



Thanks