So, I just picked up a few things from Parts Place..and one of those is a new oil fill cap. The old one was pretty beat up and didn't seal well..so I figured why not.

I went to put the new one on, and it won't latch in. I stuck it on the bench next to the old one, and the old one seems a bit taller.



The new one isn't tall enough to clear the rolled lip inside the tube that you turn the cap to secure with..but the old one is just too dang loose. What am I missing here? Or, is this just a case of a bad part?

 

Probably just a case of a Chinesium part. Any oil fill cap all the way until 1990 will fit.

 

That figures

 

What does the top of that cap look like ?

 

https://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/pro...oil-fill/57714

 

Aftermarket crap.
They go through all the troubles to replicate an original piece and do it wrong.
It's easier to do it right.
​​​​​​Throw your original one in the blaster and put a new seal on it.

 

I really think these repro places NEVER try installing their so-called parts on an actual car.

BTW - the "seal"/gasket is sandwiched between parts of the cap that are spot welded together. Maybe you could make a new seal and slip it behind/on top of the original seal on the cap...sort of tighten up any excess clearance b/n the seal and the oil fill tube.

 

Original cap through the blaster and painted



Cleared the underside and installed new gasket



gasket from cheapo $4.90 Duralast cap # 8066. Had to trim a little for perfect fit

 

Yes there are 2 felt gaskets. One below the metal ring and one on top. I kept the lower in place being careful not to damage it in the blaster. Replaced the top gasket and works like a charm.

 

My original is pretty beat up as well, that was another reason I was good with replacing it.

I'll keep an eye out for a good replacement piece. Yes, I could just tear them both apart and make 1 good one..but I'm not "that" crafty.. lol

 

There are plenty of these caps out there that won't be beat up...if you mean the visible-once-installed parts of the cap.

Thanks Rick! - good to see your posting and info on the SOLUTION to a loose seal/fitment on the cap. That's typically the only thing that is "wrong" with an original cap. Time to go to the parts store and stock up on the Duralast "donor" caps.

Now that Rick mentioned it....Ames Performance sells a rubber seal/gasket for use on radiator caps. I have one and will check to see if it fits on the oil cap as well. Probably costs more (definitely will w/shipping from Ames) than the locally available Duralast cap so not as good of a solution.

 

True, and honestly I could use the new one if I'm piecing one together. I'm just not confident in my abilities. Lol

 

I PM,d you with a friends # who has a hand full of original caps

 

Got it. I was talking to a guy at church about it and he said he may have some laying around as well..so if he doesnt, Ill reach out.

I appreciate it.

 

Alright, my buddy came through..I think.

It's a Gates 31066. I got it out of the box and noticed it's much taller than the Parts Place piece. Pulled the old cap off, stuck the new cap on..its pretty dang tall.



it seems pretty locked in, especially compared to the original cap. I'm just not sure how sealed the "gasket" is around the top of the tube.

I suppose we'll find out.

 

Alright, so after driving around all weekend with no visible issues, I drove it to work this morning and it seemed to be smoking pretty heavily. While the oil level didn't seem to have budged, I did notice the air cleaner lid looked a bit wet. Upon removing the new cap, I noticed it too doesn't seem very tight.

I'm just gonna go back to the one I had originally on it and just be sure not to bump it. That should eliminate one of the 4-5 sources for various leaks that reared up this morning.