Moroso vs Milodon 7 Quart Oil Pan
#1
Moroso vs Milodon 7 Quart Oil Pan
Wondering if any of you have an opinion of which oil pan is a better fit and quality. My car is a 64 Cutlass and I was leaning more toward a Milodon for my 455 but I have the opportunity to get a good deal on a Moroso. I'm in the market for a 7 quart capacity. Thanks
#5
I wanted to put a Moroso pan on my 455 and put one on it when the engine was on the stand. It leaked. I contacted Summit and they let me swap for another one. It leaked on the stand too. So, I sent the 2nd one back and got credit towards a Milodon pan. It didn't leak!
#6
I ran an OPP 7qt pan. The rails were warped like most modified pans, although Andy swears up and down that his are the only ones that get built perfectly. It bolted up and sealed find though.
The welds were quite strong! I eventually broke the back weld after landing on the oil pan for the 10th time or so. Turns out a deep pan + >3" lowered front + medium-soft shocks = broke pan. Who knew?
The welds were quite strong! I eventually broke the back weld after landing on the oil pan for the 10th time or so. Turns out a deep pan + >3" lowered front + medium-soft shocks = broke pan. Who knew?
#7
#10
Still building engine. But looked down at the pan around rear part of crank. Gasket is wet and had some fresh oil to be there. Looks like the seal absorbed it. Hopefully this won't be an issue when I run it:/
#19
The Felpro kit for the diesel - OS30471C - is a steel core with cork for the rails. Very good set. I still use a spray gasket maker on both sides of the rail gaskets, dabs of silicone on the ends of the rubber seals and where the rubber meets the rails, that's it.
Moroso also makes a nice kit, but don't believe it when they say it's "tear proof". It'll tear if you just yank it our of the packaging.
Moroso also makes a nice kit, but don't believe it when they say it's "tear proof". It'll tear if you just yank it our of the packaging.
#27
Looks like the gasket was installed incorrectly. There must be a blob of RTV between the rubber seal and the block where the cap meets the block. The rubber seal has some indentations on the underside to hold RTV. I put a pea sized dollop in the cavity between the cap and the block where the seal slips in, plus a very small layer on the step on the block where the flap of the seal lands. Then another small bit where the side gasket lays on top of the rubber seal. Same on both sides on the rear.
Similar with the front - RTV provides the seal between the side gasket, rubber gasket, block and timing cover.
Similar with the front - RTV provides the seal between the side gasket, rubber gasket, block and timing cover.
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