The original pump is P/N 6416836, which definitely matches the MF0152

 

Thanks, Joe. It sure looks right.

 

A lot of people forget about the plastic cam that lifts the secondary needles when the secondaries open up. If you ever have a small carb fire that cam is usually toast.

 

Thanks for the reminder. Have not had a carb fire in the time I've owned the car.

 

Okay, so here's why this won't work: the fuel line fitting does in fact fit the new pump and the old fuel line. However, the fitting doesn't clock properly into the new pump and now I've kinked the fuel line trying to make it fit.

So, now two more questions: 1) Who's the best supplier for replacement fuel line? and 2) Once I've received my new fuel line, what's the best way to get the fitting clocked into the pump at the correct angle to meet up with the fuel line without kinking it again?

This never happens to the guys in the Youtube videos.

 

... So, I figured I'd take the fuel line off at the filter end and see if that would give me a new perspective to worry things around from. 'Course the line was frozen into the filter housing. I thought I had it and the nut was beginning to loosen, but turns out what I thought was "give" was just me bending a nice kink into the fuel line against the intake manifold with my big hammy hands. Now I've got a guy coming over with a bender to see if we can save the line, before I get with Inline Tube to see if I can get a custom made one before next spring. Then I can resume fitting the line from either end while muttering and cursing.

Again I say: this never happens to the guys on Youtube.

 

Finally got the line off. It's cracked.

 

New pump-to-carb line on its way from ILT. $68, $43 of which is shipping and tax.

Car has been down all summer. Let's see what goes wrong next. Or maybe I'll get lucky and get it done before the insurance expires in November.

 

It could be the pump.

the proper way to test a pump is with a simple pressure gauge T’d into the fuel line close to the carb and put the gauge where you can see it while driving..like at the base of the windshield

Under wot going up a steep grade in 2nd or 3 is where the pump needs to deliver the min required pressure. Anything under 4 or 4.5 would be a fail

it’s a lot easier than guessing

 

Thanks for your input, but we're kind of past the diagnosis stage now. The old pump tested around 4 PSI with no load. I don't know how it would have performed under your more demanding test conditions, but I'm thinking it wouldn't have been good. The current pump is brand new (and as yet, untested) and now what I'm trying to do is remediate the damage I did trying to adapt the fuel line to it, hence the new fuel line from ILT.

Thanks again.

 

Got my new line. Not an exact copy and will require some tweaking which will necessitate me acquiring a tube bending tool so as not to f*ck up the new line the same way I did the old one. Once I do that, there's still the problem of getting the fitting off the pump clocked correctly.

Sigh.

 

Well, looks like I'll have the winter to solve this. Can anybody recommend a good tube-bending tool for this application? Looks like I can spend anywhere from $14.99 to $400, so I'm just wondering what would be appropriate. I'd prefer to stay with a simple hand tool, nothing fancy.

 

As long as it’s a QUALITY module. The cheap parts store modules are ok to get a car running, but not ideal for performance.

 

We covered that a page or two back -- it's an Accel unit I bought at least 20 years ago and carried around as a spare. I'll note here that the problems I was having predated the installation of this module, so it would be kind of scary if it was the cause.