What do you all use as a source of shim stock to setup cam endlplay? With the cam all the way rearward, I have about 50-60thou clearance to the cam bolt/button head from the front block face (front cover mounting surface). I need that to be as close to 0 as I can get so when the gasket is put on with the front cover, I will have about 10thou clearance.

I just want an easy way to get circular shims in the 50-60thou thickness range. Or an assortment? What do you all do?

The only Olds I have done myself was the VIN 9 307 in my '83 H/O. It had a spring cam button that I used again (bought a new one). One of those won't fit easily and not sure how good that is anyway.

 

You can use valve spring shims - they are hardened and you can get them in a variety of sizes.

Valve Spring Shims

 

I said screw it and got on McMaster-Carr and ordered some hardened shims in a size that will work. I think McMaster has everything ever. I got a 10 pack of 0.010" and a 10 pack of 0.005" thick.

 

What cam set up ?

 

Is this a roller cam ?

 

Yes, Crane roller cam.

 

Why not just use the factory type retaining plate like they used on the later roller cam engines ? ? There is someone on here selling a nice bronze replacement or there is a factory one on E-bay right now but he is proud of it. Thats what I did on the 307 in my Wifes Riviera and also what I am doing on the 350 stroker I am building right now. Makes it so easy. No shimming etc etc.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...plates-162719/

 

What does it look like?

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/284698060320

 

I’ll use the shims arriving from McMaster tomorrow🤣
Thanks tho!

 

Here is the factory one on the engine I am building now.

 

Where are you actually putting the shims ? What is actually going to be hitting the timing cover ?

 

I was going to shim the cam sprocket bolt out to give the nose of the bolt about 10thou clearance to the front cover (it has about 60thou now). If the cam tends to walk towards the front, it won't be able to move more than 10thou.

Is this the wrong way to do this?

 

nothing wrong with that. Just knock off the sharp edges on the bolt face and clean it up.

 

That bolt is as smooth and round as a baby's bottom haha!

 

good. The cam still gets pulled back by the oil pump and dizzy drag…the bolt won’t touch anything.

I’ve got many out there like that.

 

Sorry, I am going to disagree. Steel bolt against the steel front cover is not a good idea. That's why cam buttons are aluminum or teflon. The factory end play spec on the roller cams is .002"-.007"

It looks like the factory one on E-bay sold so I would get in touch with Paul and get one of his bronze ones.

 

If I needed to shim a bolt .050" I would use a single .050" shim versus 5 .010" shims.

@BillK What's your opinion on the stock lifter gallery plugs thread engagement with the bronze cam retainer plate? I was wondering with this plate if the stock plugs are long enough. It your picture it looks like you are not using original plugs.

 

the cams thrust surface is contacting the block at ten times the speed because of the diameter, it’s metal to metal. Why isn’t that eating itself up? The fuel pump eccentric is steel an so is the fuel pump arm, also steel on steel..

the bolt head diameter is so small, the speed at which is never touches means nothing.

like I’ve said..I’ve got many out there this way, zero issues. Even after years of running and freshening up, no wear. They went back together the same way. When using a dry sump and crank is when the cam floats back and forth a little.

 

The cam and block are cast iron. Totally different material.

Its his choice. I just know what I would do.

 

I’ve seen both wear on the face of the block AND at the very least, witness marks on the timing cover where “something” is touching it.
Just sayin.

 

Hmmmm, now I am not sure what I should do.

 

Shim it to what I told you to, you’ll be fine with that.

 

Will do tomorrow!
Thanks Mark. See ya on the 28th!

 

The bolt and timing cover are steel. Same with the fuel pump and it’s eccentric. a billet steel timing set is all steel…all in the same location. Rocker arms , pushrods and valves all steel on steel.

all of those are way more stressed than a bumper that may or may not contact…most likely not if running a wet sump pump .

like I’ve said. I’ve done this before with no problems and still do it.

 

I’ve seen them too..those marks on the timing cover are most likely from when an engine diesels/runs on after shut down. Which is running in reverse rotation and the cam gets slammed forward.

 

I would put a brass cup plug on the end of the bolt. Tap with a hammer to be sure it is seated on the bolt squarely, and dress with a file as needed to get the clearance you want.

 

Got some 0.045" shims too.

 

Al,
I am using the stock plugs. They seem to have plenty of thread engagement. This will be the third engine I have done this way and have not had an issue. I have to assume that the brass plate is the same thickness as the factory plate which is all I have used.

 

Forgot to repost in here. Shims worked great. I have about 0.010" to the timing cover when all is bolted together. Going to Mark's on Saturday to run/tune it on the dyno. I'll post some pics tonight.