Hey all,
I'm new to the forum and new to the car restoration world, but I have learned a lot just by reading the threads. My dad bought a 1971 442 and traded some work with a guy to do the restoration work on it. Anyhow the engine was overheating bad a couple years ago after it was finished so we gave it back to him for a couple of years to figure it out, just got it back and guess what? guy didn't seem to do squat except install the new fans which hasn't solved the overheating problem. It has a big be-cool aluminum be cool radiator with dual electric be-cool fans (no mechanical fan) and still overheats super quick and bad. I told my dad to let me see what I could do rather than giving it back and see it as an awesome opportunity to get my feet a bit wet. From what I've read on the forums I'm realizing it can be a number of things but I'm going to start-off trying out the basics, which brings me to the timing question.

I still need to find the specifics of the rebuild, but I know it has been fully rebuilt and is making quite a bit of power. The car has an MSD distributor with no vacuum advance. I've read to advance the initial to as much as it will handle without stressing the starter and to have it around 36 all in at about 3000 rpm. I was able to advance it to 20' at startup and it did just fine, but was reluctant to give it any more than that. As it doesn't have a vacuum advance is it more fitting to have such a high initial advance? I've also read that overheating cars do better with a vacuum advance, any input on this?

The car is currently at 10* initial 30* total all in at 4000 which seems to be quite off. I just got the spring and bushing kit for the distributor today and it looks like the biggest bushing limits it to 18* of mechanical advance so should I shoot for 18* initial and 36* all in by 3000? My primary goal is to keep things as cool as possible.

Thanks in advance for your advice. Once I get the timing figured out I plan on taking another look at the carburetor tune and move to the cooling system after that. I'm sure I'll be posting more updates on my progress and asking for advice.

 

If the car overheats quickly, you definitely need to start with the basics, which in your case means things such as checking whether the water is moving, and which hoses are getting hot when.

By the sound of it, this car has a lot of modifications. Does it have a serpentine belt system?

Two years to fix an overheating problem seems a bit much to me.

Welcome to ClassicOlds.

- Eric

 

Welcome to the site. What temperature is it going to? Is it overheating both at idle and cruising?

Which model distributor do you have, is there a seperate control box?

 

Yeah it pretty much just ended up being a bum deal with a guy that was untrustworthy. My dad is too nice of a guy and I had to keep pressing him to get the 442 back.

My thoughts at first were that it would be something obvious with the cooling system. The flow seems to be good, if anything maybe it is too fast to allow the radiator to cool. There is a 140 degree thermostat which I pulled and tested as working. With the radiator cap of there is definitely a good amount of flow. Both the top hose and bottom hose start to flow and get really hot, an IR thermometer is on the way so I can get the temperatures at different places.

It will idle at about 210 and stay there, but if I take it out driving, even very conservatively the temp will steadily climb to 230 before I shut it down. Cruising at highway speeds doesn't slow the progression. I sprayed some water on the radiator and it did help cool the temperature down a few degrees but it took quite a bit of water.

It does have a serpentine belt, and an AC unit that doesn't seem to work. I'm considering removing the AC and the AC cooling apparatus to get a more unobstructed flow to the radiator. Maybe flipping the electric fans to the front to push air and a mechanical still on to pull, but since cruising at high speeds doesn't seem to help I'm not as confident it will work. Still its worth a shot and I'm betting its got a lack of heat transfer mixed with excess heat production. I'm just hoping the machinest that did the rebuild used the proper clearance. I'm in the process of getting all the rebuild info.

It has the pro billet msd distributor with a separate amplifier box. Thank you for the speedy responses and a lot of times your questions make me do research and help me learn as I truly am a newby.

 

Try putting the 18* bushing in there and set it to 18. Make sure your not obstructing the airflow through the radiator. Your idle temps are fine if it maintains the 210, you have an airflow issue for the cruising temps.

 

1. Are the fans pulling the air through the radiator from front to back?

2. Is the serpentine belt turning the water pump in the right direction (clockwise when viewed from the front for a normal water pump)?

- Eric

 

Belts are running in the correct direction and air is being pulled through the radiatior (verified fan blades spinning the correct way) though I feel like it could use a bit more air being pulled through. on monday I should have my IR thermometer on monday and I can better diagnose whether or not the radiator is doing its job. I've read that top to bottom hose should have at least a 25-30 degree difference if functioning properly (enough air and water flow through it). Does that sound right? If not I'll be looking for obstruction of water flow or ways to improve air flow. I guess its possible the lower hose is collapsing on the road i'm able to pinch it together pretty easily, so it may not have an internal spring. it doesn't collapse in park at high RPM's
I just tuned it to 18* initial 36* all in by 2800. Also adjusted the carburetor a bit. Took it for a drive in the cool morning and it lasted significantly longer (about 10-15 min as opposed to 5 min). but still climbs past 220.

 

You need to check for things obstructing airflow. Fans have nothing to do with cooling when driving. Can you take pictures of your radiator setup front and back.