Summit Roller tip rockers any good?
#1
Summit Roller tip rockers any good?
Getting ready to order the last few things i need for buttoning up my 455 build.
I was looking to get the Comp pn:1442 magnum steel roller tip rockers, but spotted these from summit for $60 less:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...ake/oldsmobile
They look to be pretty much identical to the comp rockers. Anyone run them on a mild (~425hp) build?
Thanks-
Ben
I was looking to get the Comp pn:1442 magnum steel roller tip rockers, but spotted these from summit for $60 less:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...ake/oldsmobile
They look to be pretty much identical to the comp rockers. Anyone run them on a mild (~425hp) build?
Thanks-
Ben
#2
One part says designed for 1.25 in spring, the other says good to 1.500, hmmm.
Horsepower has little to do with rocker integrity. It would be more effected by lobe profile, rpm and spring pressures than anything else.
Horsepower has little to do with rocker integrity. It would be more effected by lobe profile, rpm and spring pressures than anything else.
#4
Basically I want something that will work well and not be horribly expensive.
455 .030 over- TRW L2323F pisons- Stock Rods- Balanced rotating assy. Line honed mains.
Cam is a lunati 60803. Specs here: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-10420703lk
My heads are the procomp aluminum's with their stock springs (i am having them blueprinted and will know the exact spring pressures in a few weeks)
Per Bernard mondello's site, here are the Advertised spring specs on them out of the box: 1.460"od 130-135 LBS ON THE SEAT & 320 LBS OPEN @.600 LIFT
----
When you compare the specs between the comp rockers & these summit ones they are identical- both say maximum spring diameter 1.5. Just the description on the summit peice that says it was designed for stock 1.25 diam springs- to me that reads differently than the "Max spring" size thats in the specs.
Anyway, I guess the same question goes for the comp 1442 magnums (since they appear identical and what i was initially looking at) ... are they ok for this application? Really don't have $300 to spend on fancy rockers.
Thanks-
Ben
#6
#7
Rambow, with that VooDoo cam I'd run a good aluminum rocker. There isn't a faster more harsh hydraulic lobe on the planet.
#8
Are these going to self destruct? cause the cam to go flat or cause valve float because they are too heavy?
GOOD aluminum full roller rockers are double the cost(or more!) of these- and I am on a tight budget. I'm also not attempting to squeeze every last HP out of the engine.
I need a specific reason to spend the extra $$.
If these flat out won't work or are going to destroy stuff, thats a good reason.
Not trying to beat up your recommendations, its just the way my brain works... I need to know WHY.
thanks-
Ben
#9
Ben, I seen multiple posts here and ROP where the comp pushrods that come with the kit have problems. By the time you upgrade to better pushrods, you might as well buy aluminum rockers. Other than that, I don't have any good reason why for a budget street engine. I have a set of Scorpion aluminum rockers that were quite a bit less $ than HS, but still more expensive than the 1442. I haven't run them yet, but have heard good things about them.
#10
Ben, I seen multiple posts here and ROP where the comp pushrods that come with the kit have problems. By the time you upgrade to better pushrods, you might as well buy aluminum rockers. Other than that, I don't have any good reason why for a budget street engine. I have a set of Scorpion aluminum rockers that were quite a bit less $ than HS, but still more expensive than the 1442. I haven't run them yet, but have heard good things about them.
anyone have input on these "high energy" aluminum ones from comp?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMP-1-6-R-7...92a5bd&vxp=mtr
I've seen enough to know to stay away from the off brand cheap aluminum ones, but these are priced about the same as the Comp magnum ones, and come with the poly locks I would have bought separately for the other ones.
#11
I was looking at the 1442 kit that is just the rockers, my heads already have studs & guide plates, and I prefer to buy my pushrods separately anyway.
anyone have input on these "high energy" aluminum ones from comp?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMP-1-6-R-7...92a5bd&vxp=mtr
I've seen enough to know to stay away from the off brand cheap aluminum ones, but these are priced about the same as the Comp magnum ones, and come with the poly locks I would have bought separately for the other ones.
anyone have input on these "high energy" aluminum ones from comp?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMP-1-6-R-7...92a5bd&vxp=mtr
I've seen enough to know to stay away from the off brand cheap aluminum ones, but these are priced about the same as the Comp magnum ones, and come with the poly locks I would have bought separately for the other ones.
Since the original tread in the head is only 5/16 inch you only have the comp stud that follows with the comp steel roller tip rockers, what i know. I matched that one with a 3/8 1:6 HS non Olds rocker arm with no success. The treads left are really short, about 1/2 inch. Maybee thats enough of thredlenght, but I didn't feel safe about it. What type of rockerstuds do you have?
#12
Are these going to self destruct? cause the cam to go flat or cause valve float because they are too heavy?
GOOD aluminum full roller rockers are double the cost(or more!) of these- and I am on a tight budget. I'm also not attempting to squeeze every last HP out of the engine.
I need a specific reason to spend the extra $$.
thanks-
Ben
GOOD aluminum full roller rockers are double the cost(or more!) of these- and I am on a tight budget. I'm also not attempting to squeeze every last HP out of the engine.
I need a specific reason to spend the extra $$.
thanks-
Ben
That's my point, wait a few days, weeks, months for the money to do it right the first time.
Those Comp aluminums are fine, I'd go that route.
And overall rocker weight isn't the issue. It's the weight over the tip and pushrod that counts the most. And the roller fulcrum on the roller rocker will be easier on those lobes no doubt.
And I hope you have good studs in it no matter which way you go.
#13
Ben, I seen multiple posts here and ROP where the comp pushrods that come with the kit have problems. By the time you upgrade to better pushrods, you might as well buy aluminum rockers. Other than that, I don't have any good reason why for a budget street engine. I have a set of Scorpion aluminum rockers that were quite a bit less $ than HS, but still more expensive than the 1442. I haven't run them yet, but have heard good things about them.
#14
I believe on the comp 1442 rocker kit includes the guide plates and the studs. I don't see that on the "Summit" kit. It looks like all you get is the rockers, pivots, and nuts. The list of parts don't list any of extra parts.
Gene
Gene
#15
Ben, I seen multiple posts here and ROP where the comp pushrods that come with the kit have problems. By the time you upgrade to better pushrods, you might as well buy aluminum rockers. Other than that, I don't have any good reason why for a budget street engine. I have a set of Scorpion aluminum rockers that were quite a bit less $ than HS, but still more expensive than the 1442. I haven't run them yet, but have heard good things about them.
In less than 150 miles 7 pushrod tips wore out. I sent them back and they had to send me a new set.
So far so good.
Joe
#17
"Rambow" I read in another thread that you went with the "Procomp? heads. These rockers you are asking about won't work on the Procomp heads. You will need real roller rockers & 3/8 push rods.
Gene
Gene
#18
After much reading, Decided that i'm going to go ahead and spring for good ones per most folks advice- Looking specifically at the Harland Sharps.
Wondering if I need the 5003's which are made for the edelbrock aluminum heads (and by extension, the procomps like i have?)
or if i should do the 5001s
Read on ROP that the difference is because of the edelbrocks taller valve stem height. Unsure what the difference will be between that and my procomps.
I guess i should wait until my guy gets them blue printed and i find out how long the valve stem on these is & if its the same as the edelbrock valves are.
Any thoughts?
Wondering if I need the 5003's which are made for the edelbrock aluminum heads (and by extension, the procomps like i have?)
or if i should do the 5001s
Read on ROP that the difference is because of the edelbrocks taller valve stem height. Unsure what the difference will be between that and my procomps.
I guess i should wait until my guy gets them blue printed and i find out how long the valve stem on these is & if its the same as the edelbrock valves are.
Any thoughts?
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March 20th, 2021 02:45 PM