Should I block the exhaust crossover on a street engine?
#1
Should I block the exhaust crossover on a street engine?
I was getting ready to install the edelbrock performer intake on my 455 ('72 block, '68 pistons, 9.4:1 compression, stock heads (GA), 1 3/4 headers). I was reading the instructions, and they said to use the included exhaust crossover plugs for competition and marine appliations. Should I use them for a street engine? Thanks. Tom.
#4
I didn't put them in. 1 year later i took it off to replace the gaskets and the intake had a crack in the crossover i think from to much heat. edelbrock did replace it but i had to put them in i did have a electric choke
#5
I blocked mine off with sheet metal but it ran like crap during cool weather, doesn't even have to be cold. If I parked it for a bit it would heat soak then run fine. After 8 years my crossover gasket blew. When I replaced it I put the crossover back into service. Runs better now in the cool weather.
#6
I've blocked them off on everything I have built & owned,except I don't use those plugs.A cheap,but effective way is to cut a section out of a pop can,fold it in half,& place over the heat passage,before you put the gasket on.I live in the north,but I don't drive these in the winter,so I'm not worried about it.
#7
I blocked mine. Quadrajet and electric choke. The electric choke will fully open before it is warm enough to idle. It makes it very cold blooded, but it warms up very quickly during a drive. I would do it on a street engine. Once you figure out how to finesse it, it won't be a problem.
#8
I have blocked xovers in most of my Olds engines & both cars in my sig have no xover. One blocked, one w/ edelbrocks. I have not operated blue car in particularly cold weather w/ new engine but is fine on a 40* morning. Was fine w/ previous engine during occasional mid winter drives. Red car always fine. Both have electric choke QJets. I have mostly always poured the risers though I did use the Mondildo sheet metal block offs before too.
Blue car is so cold blooded if the temp is below 70* I have to block some of the radiator core w/ cardboard, under 50* I add another piece so 1/4 - 1/3 of core is covered. Water won't even get up to 160* (appx 130*) if I don't block it. Never gets hot in summer though! My point is that even stone cold, car runs flawlessly even in the cold. I start it, MAYBE let it run for 30 seconds & drive off (moderately) & it doesn't so much as stutter. Never had a carb icing situation but never drove it real far in cold (below freezing) weather.
Blue car is so cold blooded if the temp is below 70* I have to block some of the radiator core w/ cardboard, under 50* I add another piece so 1/4 - 1/3 of core is covered. Water won't even get up to 160* (appx 130*) if I don't block it. Never gets hot in summer though! My point is that even stone cold, car runs flawlessly even in the cold. I start it, MAYBE let it run for 30 seconds & drive off (moderately) & it doesn't so much as stutter. Never had a carb icing situation but never drove it real far in cold (below freezing) weather.
Last edited by bccan; October 21st, 2010 at 04:22 PM.
#9
It's supposed to be cool here tomorrow, I'll be taking my 70 Cutlass out. It starts and runs well but I have to be gentle on tha gas at part throttle (around 30 mph) for a few miles or it bogs. I always go for breakfast which is a mile drive, that time sitting heat soaks the manifold. Once the carburetor is warm my car runs best during cool weather, a nice dense cool air charge. I'm using an Edle AFB with elec. choke and no warm air intake from the heat stove.
#10
I have Edelbrock heads with no crossover and have a electric choke on my 455. I have no problem with cold weather starts and warm ups here in the northwest. have started it and drove in the low 30's
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