I was reading this thread and thinking the EXACT same thing. FWIW, I would not buy one of the cheapie 3-wheel stands for a 455. You're liable to have it flip around & topple.

I just bought a nice 4-wheel heavy duty stand for the 455 in my garage used off CL for $70 cash. Just do a quick search, and you're bound to find something used. i currently have 3 of the small stands, and now one of the large ones. They will always come in handy if you keep tinkering with cars & engines.

If you do get a used one, before you mount the block to it, make sure to grease down the pivot hole & tube where the engine will rotate. It makes things a LOT easier, and you're still probably going to need 2 people to safely rotate a big block unless you find a MONSTER engine stand.

Those bent pushrods are nasty looking. My best guess on them is that someone (most likely the picker that sold it to you) tried to rotate the crank with a big cheater bar and the valves were rusted in place & didn't budge on a few of them.

You're getting to another step that's going to require a specialized tool as well. If you don't have the pistons out already, run your fingernail up the inside of the cilinder edge from the bottom to the top. There's going to be a ridge there. Right near the top of the cylinder where the piston RINGS would be at the top of their travel. Depending on how much of a ridge is there, you'll want to find a device called a "ridge reamer" to knock those down before you try and push the pistons past them, or you could risk breaking the ring lands off the pistons themselves.

You're in the home stretch now. Next you'll be asking about reputable machine shops in your area to get the block, crank, rods & heads done!

Be prepared to start shelling out the cash for this part...

-Jeff

 

This is why I love this forum, that's a very plausible reason.... yes, it was a picker, felt like I was in the "American Picker" show when I drove out to PA, into the woods...

Yes, engine stand will be next investment after I take my first costly trip to the machine shop, my back is killing me and I have a space issue since my car takes up alot of the room in the garage and I rather sleep outside then park it outside.

I know im gonna sound like a fool but I have a basement with access in the middle of the house and it's got fair # of steps with a 45 degree stair case. I was thinking of doing assembly work down in the basement and when it's ready push up a platform or something, I know it sounds silly but I need the room.

Also, I am at the last step, camshaft... how do I remove this sucker, it slides back and forth about an inch so what bolt or tool I need to use or purchase? I havent done anything to it yet, just removed the crank... thanks

 

I can't quite tell by your last 2 pictures, but definitely put those maincaps back in the proper place and snug the bolts if you haven't already. Same with the rod caps. You don't want to get them out of order, or turned around at all.

As far as removing the cam, the easiest way is to probably put the cam gear back on it & snug the bolt, and use that to grab hold of to just pull it out by hand. wiggle it back & forth as needed to work it free, but there shouldn't be anything holding it in place.

I wouldn't worry about nicking it, or the bearings, as you'll be replacing those anyhow from the looks of everything else. Same with the timing gear. You'll want a new set of gears with a double roller chain.

I suspect that it's just hanging on by some caked on oil/gunk that's not letting it slide in & out freely, so lubricate as needed. Might try some type of solvent that will break down the oil sludge first, then a lubricant to make it easy to get out. And make sure all the lifters are out as well. If those are stuck, grab em with vise grips to pull them out, as you'll be replacing them along with the cam. I wouldn't trust any of the valvetrain components after seeing those pushrods.

As far as building that engine in the basement... um, unless you have a crane, or block & tackle to get it back out of there once it's assembled, there's no way I would go that route. Even two STRONG men with good backs would have issues trying to lift an assembled long block up a flight of stairs. You're talking about a solid ~600lb chunk of cast iron at that point, and very little in the way of good handholds.

Additionally, will the stairs to your basement hold 600lb PLUS two weightlifters at an additional 500 pounds?

I've personally never even attempted to do anything involving moving a big block without the use of a cherry-picker. That's just asking for trouble IMHO.

Here's a lot of good info on engine stands if you haven't found this thread already.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ne-weight.html

-Jeff

 

I, too was gonna suggest taking out the lifters to remove the cam!
And I agree with the above about the basement - good luck getting even the assembled shortblock back up the stairs, as someone has to bend their back while walking backwards up the stairs!
Good luck with that - beg, borrow or steal a heater for the garage!!

 

I don't know - I kind of like the basement idea!

The question is, how is your house constructed, and how much leeway do you have with modifications?

If you're the MAN of the house, laying down the law and broaching no dissent (ie: if you're a bachelor), then I'd recommend finding a structurally appropriate spot and constructing a hoistway - just hang a chainfall over it, and you can hoist up your motor, replace the floor panel, bolt it onto the stand (or, just hoist it up already attached to the stand), and roll it into the garage.

Of course, if you're married, you're pretty much left geting a heater for the garage...

- Eric

 

so I started this over a month ago, mission accomplished.

Where do I go now? well the fun begins and I'll probably need to start a new thread for the rebuild.

First, id like to thank all that helped me with this project.

Next I need to find a good manual / DVD on rebuilding basics especially for olds 455 as a tutorial guide to coach me through the rebuild.

Also find a machine shop in North Jersey, that will rework block/valve heads, not sure what they would say about reusing the intake and converting the crank into manual. I am not looking into spending alot of $$ for a kit but at the same time I want to get over 400 HP by the time I am done.

PEACE

- how should I pop off the freezer/ oil plugs? necessary?

 

Well - a good starting place is to join (if you havent already) the Olds Performance Club at wildaboutcars.com All of the engine rebuild information as well as many tips on your rebuild will be at the "click of your mouse" on the site. And if you need help navigating to the stuff youre looking for? Just ask Bob - the webmaster/moderator. He also has authored a few books about just the kinda of rebuild you are looking to do!!
again -- visit wildaboutcars.com and join up --- membership is FREE!!

 

for engine building guides, check out the following

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ance-book.html

http://compare.ebay.com/like/1208097...=sbar&_lwgsi=y

http://paceperformance.com/i-6254907...-mondello.html

I have personally read the second one I linked, and would love to own another copy. mine got lost years ago.

I cannot personally speak for the first & third options there, but knowing who the sources are for both of them, either would probably be quite suitable for any info you're looking for as well.

2 thumbs up on getting this far! I haven't built an engine from the block up in years, but always loved doing it. Make sure that when you chose a machine shop, that you do a little homework on them before handing over your iron. A good machine shop will usually be pricey, but MUCH less so than scattering a freshly built engine due to something not being done correctly during the machining/assembling process.

-Jeff

 

Here's a link about Bob G's Olds Engine book that you can see at wildaboutcars.com

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...html#post17260

 

thanks, I just became a member