trackz man

Removed engine to replace the rear main seal and deal with some transmission issues, but wanted to gather information before proceeding.

It recommends in the service manual to use cement #557621 and on the rear main bearing cap and cement # 557622 to bottom side of new fiber gaskets on oil pan and exposed surfaces of seals front and rear.

In your best recommendation what works best in todays technology to ensure that the oil pan gasket and front seal and rear main seal will not leak?

Application is a 1963 394...

rocketraider

Trackz, sealers have come so far since 1963 that I think any good current gasket cement would work fine in your application. I tend to shy away from RTV sealers on oil-related components, but Permatex black or copper should work fine.

I'm looking at a rear main job on my green one, and I honestly think I'm going to farm it out. I have neither time nor energy to tackle a big job like that anymore. Trouble is the mechanic I had intended to use split from his wife and left for parts unknown. Guess better now than halfway thru my rear main job, eh?

B964

You want to use an anaerobic flange sealant for the machined surfaces.

http://www.permatex.com/products/aut..._Sealant_a.htm

Or if you search Ebay maybe someone has a nice 48 year old NOS tube of GM sealant. LOL

trackz man

Yeh- I bet that would work real well...

Probably would pay a fortune for it also

trackz man

When I first saw that "anaerobic flange sealant", the first thought was something that comes out the other end after eating chili and beans...

I looked at the website and it looks like that is what I will go with. I ordered the pan gasket and rear main seal-Not sure if it will be cork or rubber for the pan gasket, but will use permatex high tack spray to hold onto the pan then bolt up the pan. Thanks for the advise..

B964

I saw on The H.A.M.B. forum that someone makes a neoprene real main seal. Joyce Bros Restoration in Ohio I think. Then again, most likely a rope style one will outlast you anyhow.

62Starfire63

Just put a neoprene rear main in my 394...the old rope one was a pain in the *** to get all out from under the crank...had to lift the crank up to get it all out and I wouldn't want to stuff another rope one back in there, although I'm sure it would work, the neoprene ones come formed in the horseshoe shape and slipped right back in nice and easy. Only had it running for maybe 2-3 hours now, but no signs of leak from back there and I have gone under to check after each run so far.

trackz man

62starfire63-

Just painted the top portion and heads the same Dupli-color as your engine. Going to put on aluminum valve covers and painted exhaust manifolds tonight- underhood black the front brackets and p/s pump- going to tackle the rear main and oil pan Thursday-parts should be in by then. Thanks for all the advise....

59-59-59

Go with the neoprene seal and forget about the cost of it. I have put three neoprene seals in rebuilt 394's and have yet to see a leak from that area

trackz man

I think I will go with your recommendation, but first. Where did you get a neoprene rear main seal for your Olds 394?

trackz man

So, where did you get your neoprene rear seal?

62Starfire63

got it through ebay in an complete engine gasket set...think u can fin them sold seperately through "fel-pro" or "best gaskets"

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Oldsm...Q5fAccessories

i think this is the kit i ordered....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1961-...item588b66149f

just search ebay it was cheaper then my local parts guys could get it, easier to find and shipped to my door

trackz man

Just ordered one- Thanks again- Any particular sealants that you used when you installed the neoprene seal- Step by step...

gbas

Hi guys - I was going to change my oil pan gasket on my 1970 delta 88. Autozone carries Felpro and said they have them in cork or "cork-ply". Any advice on which i should go with?

trackz man

Not quite sure what "cork ply" is, but I used a cork gasket with my neoprene rear main seal, about 250 miles on it now and not a leak at all.

It sure makes a difference to the misses when the garage floor is oil free

B964

Cork-Ply is like a cork and rubber mix.
It seals very well (In my experience better than plain cork) and does not stick the the parts as easily.
Works good for valve covers and such that may need to be removed and reinstalled once in a while ie valve covers if you have adjustable rockers.

W70442

I've heard that if you go to the neoprene seal, you have to pollish the serations(oil grooves) off of the crank surface. Other wise, they will chew up the new neoprene seal.
I just put a Best Gasket graphtite rope seal in my 78 TA's pontiac 400. A little over 200 miles now with no leaks. I'm in the process of replacing the rear main in the 455 on my 442 with the same seal.