Texas442

Looking for Engine Oil recommendation (weight and brand) to put in a car that is hardly driven. The car has its original Olds 455 with 79,000 original miles. I only run the car about once every 3 months. Thanks

Gustav455

Just because the car has a hydraulic flat tappet cam, i personally use Valvoline VR1 10-30 because it has more ZDDP additives.

Olds64

I use Rotella T diesel oil.

dc2x4drvr

Rotella x2

Dan Wirth

For the older car, I would use Redline, Amsoil or Brad Penn 15W-40; Valvoline VR-1 or Rotella, if they are SJ or SL (API) rated.

Olds64

I like Rotella T because I can buy it pretty cheap at Sam's Club.

MN71W30

You guys better do your homework on your oil brands. As far as I've heard the Rotella has eliminated most of the zinc in their oil and things change as the years go by. Oils that were great last year might be lacking zinc now. I have lost several cams over the years and take this very seriously. I reccomend the Valvoline VR with the zinc label on the bottle, Brad Penn or other high zinc oils.

85olds442

Summit Racing sells their own brand of oil that is made for flat tappet cams, Royal Purple and Lucas also has zinc but a little more expensive. You can find the oil at Checker Auto and at Pep Boys.

Olds64

I don't know about the zinc additives, I've just heard that Rotella T is a good engine oil. That is why I've put it in my engine since I started it. As long as I change the oil regularly I should be good, I don't drive my car at the track anyways.

citcapp

Rotella still has zinc additive although the quantity has been lowered. Its still recommended for flat tappet cams. Check the shell web site its has the information on how much zinc is in their oil

MN71W30

From what I've read Rotella after 2007 is below 900 ppm zinc and 1200 to 1400 is reccomended for flat tappet cams. I'm not an expert or pretent to be, and how much of what you read on the subject is BS? . I do know there is a problem out there and I decided to go with a roller cam in my BBC.

Lady72nRob71

Here is a good thread for you...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-car-zddp.html

Given you hardly run the car, any available dino-based 15W-40 diesel oil should be fine for you. If you start driving it more often, CI rated diesel is preferred over the newer CJ. Or use regular oil with a ZDDP additive, or with the other racing oils that has ZDDP (some listed above).

citcapp

I went with a roller cams on both my 455's for the hp gain and cam issues of a part time driver.

MN71W30

How did I miss that thread, I read through it. It's a subject hit pretty hard. The last 2 cams I lost was from lifters that stopped spinning after several thousand miles and then they get mowed down on one side. Anyone got a clue what caused that?

Nilsson

VR1, is rated SH/CD for gasoline and diesel categories.

Best oil for the money ($3.99 quart) imho

Destructor

Does VR 1 have deturgents? I only put 1 1/2 quarts in my Cutlass last oil change. Being a racing oil I assumed few or no deturgents, that is not good for street use so I used 3 quarts of conventional oil. If it does indeed have deturgents I'll change the filter and add another quart then go with all VR 1 next oil change.

Nilsson

VR1 has less detergents then conventional motor oil. It has only so much less that it is not for extended mileage. Recommended oil change intervals are 3000 miles, I change mine every 2000-2500 miles. I had the valve covers off last winter to paint and everything underneath was absolutely spotless and looked like new.

Now, VR1 "not street legal" has no detergents.

trainfixer2

You can't go wrong with the VR-1 I use it in all my cars even a Triumph Spitfire as well as my 68 455.

Destructor

I shall switch to all VR1 and change oil twice a year, about every 1200 miles.