Newbie 425 build

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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 06:04 AM
  #41  
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The engine looks pretty good. It is a bit on the orange side but it is clean. That is what matters.

IMHO, the turkey tray is a waste of time. The end rails for the intake manifold gasket are a PITA as well. I suggest getting an aftermarket intake manifold gasket and using RTV for the end rails.
Old Jul 6, 2010 | 09:46 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Olds64
The engine looks pretty good. It is a bit on the orange side but it is clean. That is what matters.

IMHO, the turkey tray is a waste of time. The end rails for the intake manifold gasket are a PITA as well. I suggest getting an aftermarket intake manifold gasket and using RTV for the end rails.
The gasket kit came with new rubber end rail gaskets, I was thinking about using RTV to seal and hold those in place.
Old Jul 6, 2010 | 09:49 AM
  #43  
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Having trouble trying to locate an alternator bracket. Just wanted to double check to see if this is the correct one that I need?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1966-...item3c9fc45516

Price seems high for a bracket, I'm open for cheaper opinions
Old Jul 8, 2010 | 05:29 PM
  #44  
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I tried to sand the rust off and clean this plate but this is the best i could do.

Is this usable or should I purchase a nice fresh, clean one?

water.jpg
Old Jul 8, 2010 | 07:55 PM
  #45  
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Toss it, a pin hole here is big trouble!!
Old Jul 9, 2010 | 05:23 AM
  #46  
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Did you clean the lower portion of the timing chain cover as well, or just behind the waterpump?
Old Jul 9, 2010 | 07:22 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Olds64
Did you clean the lower portion of the timing chain cover as well, or just behind the waterpump?

I mainly focused on the rust behind the waterpump. Once I realized I couldn't remove it I gave up.

I think I may order a new one from Dick Miller racing
Old Jul 9, 2010 | 08:09 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by mauls
I mainly focused on the rust behind the waterpump. Once I realized I couldn't remove it I gave up.

I think I may order a new one from Dick Miller racing
Not sure what Dick Miller gets, but here's a GM one for $42. Of course, since that's the GM part number, you might want to have your local GM parts counter run that number and see what the price is.

http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...&ProdID=154522

Update: www.gmpartsdirect.com has them for $36 each. Stock up now.
Old Jul 9, 2010 | 08:30 AM
  #49  
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Thanks Joe!

This will save me about $30 from the other place that I found them at.
Old Jul 12, 2010 | 12:18 PM
  #50  
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Parts are coming back together, I was lining all the new parts up just to make sure they fit, before I threw the boxes away.

I noticed the oil filler tube did not fit in the inlet.

It lines up with it, but doesn't just drop in? It looks like I can force it in with a rubber mallet, is that what I'm supposed to do, or do I have the wrong size?
Old Jul 12, 2010 | 06:17 PM
  #51  
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Starting to put everything back together. I noticed the headgasket that came in my felpro gasket kit didn't look right.

It covers up many of the water ports on the block. Certainly this can't be correct?

blockgasket.jpg

blockgasketno.jpg
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 07:18 AM
  #52  
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^
Bump
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 07:51 AM
  #53  
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The gasket is correct, as not all ports are open to head. Look at head I think you will see this there.
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 01:08 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Oldsmaniac
The gasket is correct, as not all ports are open to head. Look at head I think you will see this there.
You're right.

Crazy, well thanks for the reply. Time to assemble
Old Jul 13, 2010 | 04:39 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by mauls
I tried to sand the rust off and clean this plate but this is the best i could do.

Is this usable or should I purchase a nice fresh, clean one?

Mr.Mauls,
Do yourself a favor, and when you put the new timing cover on it, PAINT IT where the water runs, unless it has a coating on it.
This will give it more time before it will even think about rusting again.
And never run just straight water.
Ever.
Good luck
Jim
Old Jul 14, 2010 | 07:36 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Warhead
Mr.Mauls,
Do yourself a favor, and when you put the new timing cover on it, PAINT IT where the water runs, unless it has a coating on it.
This will give it more time before it will even think about rusting again.
And never run just straight water.
Ever.
Good luck
Jim

Thanks for the advice Jim. I will be sure to do that
Old Jul 16, 2010 | 09:00 AM
  #57  
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edit

Last edited by mauls; Jul 21, 2010 at 09:31 AM.
Old Jul 21, 2010 | 09:31 AM
  #58  
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Okay guys, I have some extreme newbie questions. I apologize. I'll ask them 1 at a time.

What is this and what does it do? I've seen smaller plugs on many other motors, but haven't seen any like this. It had a black rubber piece over it, but it was weathered real bad.

electric.jpg


Thanks in advance
Old Jul 21, 2010 | 09:33 AM
  #59  
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Oil pressure sender. For an electronic oil pressure guage.
Old Jul 21, 2010 | 09:34 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by 66ninetyeightls
Oil pressure sender. For an electronic oil pressure guage.

That was quick, thanks. I'm not even sure I have an electronic oil pressure guage on the jetstar The connector that is on my jetstar doesn't look the same,
Old Jul 22, 2010 | 12:33 PM
  #61  
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Big newbie question

What goes in these three holes up front on the intake manifold, there are also two more on the back?

intake.jpg
Old Jul 22, 2010 | 12:44 PM
  #62  
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Those are ports for coolant temp sensors etc.Most are normally plugged. One in the back is used for the heater lines the drivers side one is usually plugged.
Old Jul 24, 2010 | 08:02 AM
  #63  
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I like following this build as I have a 66 Toro. 425 in my Cutlass. My motor was already done so I just dropped it in and ran it. What distributor are you running? Points or HEI? I'm asking because I changed mine to HEI. When I read how to adjust timing and such, people suggested to set the total timing at 36*. The harmonic balancer on our engines are different than a 455. To my knowledge there is no timing tape to use for ours and was told you could use a 455 balancer but it would have to be rebalanced. So, I say all that to say this, mark your balancer before you put all the stuff in the engine bay and cover it up. I was told to measure the circumference x 360* = the number of degrees per inch. If you mark it now you won't have to mess with it later. If anyone else has a better plan I'd be all ears(or eyes)as to what to do.
Old Jul 26, 2010 | 09:00 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by MrRocket
I like following this build as I have a 66 Toro. 425 in my Cutlass. My motor was already done so I just dropped it in and ran it. What distributor are you running? Points or HEI? I'm asking because I changed mine to HEI. When I read how to adjust timing and such, people suggested to set the total timing at 36*. The harmonic balancer on our engines are different than a 455. To my knowledge there is no timing tape to use for ours and was told you could use a 455 balancer but it would have to be rebalanced. So, I say all that to say this, mark your balancer before you put all the stuff in the engine bay and cover it up. I was told to measure the circumference x 360* = the number of degrees per inch. If you mark it now you won't have to mess with it later. If anyone else has a better plan I'd be all ears(or eyes)as to what to do.
Thanks for the advice! I'm going to run an HEI setup, so I will need to get everything marked as you stated. Hopefully it all goes smooth
Old Nov 16, 2010 | 10:43 AM
  #65  
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IMAG0054-1.jpg



I wish the Red/Orange paint was more red than orange but o well
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