Hey guys, this is only my second engine build, my first one was on my 4 wheeler

I will have many questions so thanks in advance for your patience

Here are some pics and information. The engine was rebuilt 5 years ago, and then sat in the back of a truck with a tarp over it. The guy never had time to complete it and drop it in a boat (which was his plans)

Some water got through the tarp, and into the motor and sat in the bottom of the oil pan. The pan is rusted as well as other oil parts I'm still in the process of tearing it down.

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Here are the parts with rust.

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Question:

When replacing the oil pump, i noticed there was an option to purchase a high volume oil pump for double the price. Is this worth it, or will I be just as happy with the purchasing the stock oil pump?

 

If im not mistaken,there is a good chance you already have a hv oil pump in it if im looking at that "bolt-on" pick up the normal oil pump has pressed pick up,but im sure someone will chime in and correctr me if im wrong,open the pump and inpect it i doubt there will be rust on the inside and maybe u only gonna need a new pick up.

 

I think you may be right. There is rust on it, so I'm going to replace it, I just wanted to make sure there wouldn't be clearance issues with the oil pan.

 

If you can wire brush off the rust and wash the part clean, you need not replace it (unless the rust is deep on sheet metal like the oil pan where the part could be rusted through.

 

Just soak the rusty parts in evaporust or some similar product to get it off(wont damage good metal)..heads and all...its going to be everywhere...except the pickup which might hold debris...I would throw it out

 

I already replaced the oil screen, pump, pan, but i will try and clean the area by the timing chain. I'd rather replace it, but I'm having trouble finding a replacement part.

The Intake manifold says Edelbrock Oldsmobile 455 on it, I'm assuming that is fine, and that the 425 and 455 manifolds are interchangeable?

 

Also, anyway somebody can tell me what year this block is? Any possibly any other info about it?

Casting number is 389244D

 

425 and 455 intakes interchange. Your block is 66-7. If Toro, both years take .921" diameter lifters with a 39 degree cam bank angle (like all 68-up engines). If 67 non-Toro, it takes .842" and is 39 deg. If 66, it takes .842 with 45 deg.

 

You lucky dog you.
Remember, that engine will have a different length pushrod than a std 425, or a std 455, do not mix them up.
Big valve B heads, decent cam, this should rock your car.
Glad you pitched the rusty stuff.
You do not need the front Toronado tray on the #1 main cap.
Jim

 

Thanks for the information, much help

 

Thanks Jim

I'm so excited to get this motor completed and dropped in! I currently have a 260ci in my jetstar right now. The thing is a slug!

Is this the tray you are talking about?


Do i need to replace it with a different plate? or just leave it off?

This is going in a 1965 Jetstar 88

 

Will the starter on my 1978 260ci motor fit this motor or do i need to purchase a new one?

 

Chances are the 260 has a low torque starter on it. I would recommend a high torque for the 425. The copper tube from solenoid to starter windings is short on low torque units and longer on the high torque ones if you have something to compare em to.

 

Thanks! I'm just trying to figure out what all I need to order to make this complete. I have air cleaner and carb, going to use power steering that is already on the car.

Ordered gasket kit
Oil screen
Oil pump
Oil Pan
Dipstick
Oil filler tube
Water pump
Alternator
distributor
Thermostat housing
Spark plugs and wires

Need to order:
Starter
Headers

Anything I'm missing?

 

Just a note, there are no off the shelf headers made for your Jetstar with a 425. You will need the repro S manifold for dual exhaust. The rt side gets a cap on the crossover port.

 

I was afraid of that. I haven't had a chance to do any research yet

 

Would I be able to install these without clearance issues? Their website claims they are compatible to fit a 1965 delta 88


http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...%26+Drivetrain

 

First off, the picture is not that of Oldsmobile Headers. If a shortie is made and said to fit I would be sure I could return them if they did not fit. Get it in writing. Also what weird/ugly piping would be required for the rest of the exhaust system?

 

I'm just gonna play it safe, and purchase some stock manifolds

 

I suggest getting the Thornton exhaust manifolds for dual exhaust. These are great quality!

http://thorntonmusclecars.com/produc...aust-manifolds

 

Thanks, I will look into those for sure!


I pulled off the heads last night, and here is what I found on the pistons. It was metal because I ran a magnet across it and it picked it up. Hopefully it's just some form of rust?

I cleaned them up real good with a soft towel and gasoline

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Ugly, rusty metal grit, but where did it come from? Pistons appear to be low compression.

 

If I was you I would pull the pistons, marking them for return to the same cylinder they came out of. Same with the rod caps and bearings. Be careful and do not scrape the rod bolt across the crank journals when taking out and installing. Do this to make sure you get all of the particles out of the engine. Use a good cleaning solution and air. Everything has to be clean, clean, clean cannot stress this point enough.

 

thats what i was afraid of. When I bought it the guy claimed he rebuilt everything, but it just sat and rust built up. From what I can see, the only parts that look new are the valves. The pistons look used for sure.

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I will take your advice, because I want to do everything properly so I do not run into problems down the road. The anticipation is killing me because I want to get this 260 motor out of my olds.

 

Great, your doing the right thing. The heads look good and they are big valve heads.

 

Couldn't do it without you guys, defiantly a new experience for me

 

Did you repaint the engine orange?

 

I tried to paint it the factory color. I tried researching what that was, and the only answer I found was that it was a red-orange. But it turned out way more orange than expected

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I'm going to leave the new oil pan and valve covers chrome.

 

A straight red would look OK. My '65 425 that's waiting to get rebuilt has a slight orange tint, but I wonder if that is due to paint oxidation and perhaps it was more red when new?

 

Ford red looks great on my 425 its easy to find & supposedly the closest to the original color

 

I figured mine would be darker, because it was black before, o well.

 

Pulled pistons and cleaned them as well as cylinders. Started putting bottom end back together, and ran across this gasket. It goes on the oil pump.

Do I need it? I notice the old oil pump didn't have one, neither does the new one? It goes in between that top cap.

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Their claims would be wrong. Just as a simple sanity check, note the port spacing and bolt pattern on these vs. what's on the exhaust side of your heads. We'll wait while you go out in the garage and look.

Back? Now what do you think?

 

Yeah, even if those are generic photographs, I'm going to go with some manifolds posted above.
http://thorntonmusclecars.com/produc...aust-manifolds

I'd like to not have any last minute issues with anything not fitting in. Gonna play this one safe

 

Although I'm not even sure those would fit, i think they might run into the steering box

 

This is what the Ford red looks like on my 425.

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That red looks much better, I may have to repaint mine before I drop it into the car.

 

When I removed my Intake and the heads, the intake gasket was siliconed to the heads, and the intake manifold. Only way to remove it was to damage it.

There wasn't a matching gasket in my engine gasket kit, would it be alright just using a normal manifold gasket, or do I need to relocate this metal tray gasket.

 

You can use either one. Its personal preference.