When I build the 455 I would like it to have some extra oil capacity but can't hang below the crossmember at all do to how low my car is. I would rather not use a pan as a skid plate. Do I have any options out there?

 

I'd like to know as well. My car is low and I've scrubbed the stock pan a little bit. I don't think there are too many lowrider guys around here, but it's worth asking.

 

I have an idea Richard...you ever hear of a "donk"...then the pan won't be an issue. You'll have to find 23's that look good though....

 

I bought the Milodon pan and it isn't much lower than the crossmember. The only other options are the Moroso pan (not very good quality), or the 10 quart racing pans.

 

What about running one of those remote oil filter setups? If you get the one with two filters you gain close to two quarts if you count the lines and all; you could even add a separate cooler if you chose. I know they exist because I remember seeing them in Summit or Jegs once.

 

I have no issues with Moroso pan quality. It does hang down below the crossmember tho.

 

why do you want more oil? to prevent oil starving or to run cooler? if it is to prevent starving, you will have to have a bigger pan. i don't think the two filter system will work for this because you still have to have oil in the pan to push it through the filters. if you just want the oil to run cooler then add an oil cooler. now, i don't know if someone makes a system like this (if not it would take some figuring to get it right, probably not a good idea to try on a new engine) you could add a tank and pump. this comes from the 4 wheeler world. this would use a filter relocator, you would use the pump in the engine to pump the oil to the tank only. the tank would have it's own pump to push the oil through the engine.

did i just make your Quote list Norm. go easy on me.

 

Both...Insurance

 

Hey,I have the milodon 7 QT,it only is about an inch lower than the crossmember.The headers hit way before the pan.I've never seen aTORO 6qt pan ,what about those?Good luck,BO

 

Ok, I think I agree with you since you mentioned it. At least it makes some sense to me. Is what you are describing a "dry sump" system? I have heard that word used before in reference to certain performance applications.

 

I think your best bet is a Toronado oil pan if you are concerned about scraping the bottom of the oil pan. Of course, if you have full length headers then they will scrape before the oil pan does (as BosMobile said). If you are running headers I would go with the Milodon pan.

 

Richard your good a fab work. increase your stock pan depth at the front, add a quart easy also splay the sides to get more width at the bottom of the pan, or find a toro pan and flatten the dish were it is raised for axle clearence.

 

yes, that would be correct. i have no idea if anyone makes a setup like this or not.

 

i'm going to bump this old thread instead of making a new one. i'm really in need of an oil pan (and trans pan) that sits up higher than my crossmember. surely someone knows of a company or a solution?! i bagged the car and when its layed out its all over the pans as that is the lowest part
IMG_5416.jpg

 

HOLLY COW! that thing is loooo! i understand your dilemma. can you cut a section out of your pan and weld it back together. you would have to relocate the pickup a little also. with being that low i wouldn't think you will run the engine hard enough to starve it for oil.

 

Looks to me like it's time to fabricate a dry sump system.

Look to the old Porsche 911 systems for inspiration. There's plenty of room inside fenders, etc to stash the tank, and you can even have an oil level sender like the 911s did.

- Eric

 

I run the Milidon 8qt pan.As stated earlier,it hangs about an inch lower than the crossmember,but the headers are lower.I haven't hit anything,but I am also careful about where I drive it.I have to put the front on planks just so I can get a floor jack under the crossmember,so yes,my car sits low.The Moroso pan is a little shorter,so it doesn't hang down as much.If I could get my customer's car turned around,I could take some pictures for comparison.His has the Moroso.
I have also seen some guys take a stock pan,slice the bottom off,wrap a band of sheetmetal around it,like a spacer,then weld the bottom back on.

 

Your car looks really great! Since you only set the car on the ground when it is parked and you don't want to buckle the pans, what about this? Could you weld a few plates on the frame rails that would take the weight of the car instead of the pans? It may prevent it from looking as low as it does now though and may not be a viable solution. I am just brainstorming a little and realize this may not be a good idea but definitely less work that installing a dry sump system.
By the way, you had to be real creative with the exhaust too didn't you? Again, really nice looking car.

 

Your car looks sick layed out like that.

 

i've thought about welding some skids on the frame rails to keep the pan off the ground but that means it won't lay as low so thats my last choice. the dry sump system seems like to much work to achieve the goal, and since i wouldnt want to take on the task it would probably be expensive to have done. i could pull the pan and section it, just need some advice on what to do with the oil pick up to move it up. i'm not worried about oil starving because i dont drive it like a hot rod. the car rarely sees speeds above 65 and hardly ever gets ran at wide open throttle. anyone have any ideas for the trans pan? once i fix this oil pan problem i'll have the same dilemma with the trans pan. the exhaust is actually just dumped right before the rear axle. although i'm planning on getting it run to the rear bumper again soon to quiet it down some, if we can find a way to make it fit up and over the axle and keep the heat far enough away from the rear bags.

 

I think the transmission pan would be more difficult than the oil pan. The filter lies on the bottom of the pan and there just isn't much room at all between the lower body of the transmission and the pan; it is evident when you look at the depth of the pan, maybe an inch and a half at the most.

 

If you have the hood clearance I would just raise the drivetrain. You might have to do a little metal work on the trans tunnel but it would be a big help on your driveline angles.

 

i do have the hood clearance, i was thinking the same thing but i'm not sure how exactly to raise the motor..

 

I think your best bet would be to install an accusump. spelling might be wrong.

There's another company that makes one that starts with a C

Basically a pressurize tube about the size of an old can of oil and the length is short or long depending if you get a 2 quart system or a 4 quart system.

When your oil pressure in your engine drops below 20 lbs it starts pushing oil into your engine via an oil filter adapter and when your engine oil pressure comes back up it refills the accusump.

 

The other company that makes one is available at http://www.masterlube.net

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-24-006/

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Moroso...acity,577.html

I think it seems to be a great idea for the accumulator. Unless I find a down side I'll add one to my set up.

 

I am using a milodon "stock" pan, it actually holds 5 qts, plus the filter is 6 like a toro pan but without the double hump, sits no lower then a stock pan, not a great addition of oil, but every little bit helps, I was going for a more stock look.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-30765/

 

Good info, just curious did you ever do before (original pan) and after pics.
Or side by side?
thanks,

 

is the toranado pan shorter than the stock 455 pan i have? anyone have any pointers on how i can raise my motor up about an inch? i think that could solve all my problems..

 

Buy small block olds motor mounts for your year/model car, should raise the engine an inch or so.

Aftermarket poly trans mounts sometimes are taller than stock or wornout ones, it could raise the trans almost an inch in some cases.

 

Both the Toro pan and the 7 qt. aftermarket pans should be flush with the bottom of the crossmember.

 

My moroso pan is flush with the crossmember om my 65.

 

Me too. I made some ramps out of two 2x8 by 25" & two 2x8 by 30" inch long pieces of wood to make two step ramps, which raise my car up 4" inches so I can get my floor jack under my X member.

 

why not go DRY SUMP ?

 

not a bad idea, anyone know if the small block motor mounts will just replace the stock ones or will it require fab work?

 

The smallblock mounts & pads will make it sit lower,not higher.Been there done that.

 

How about this- If your willing to sacrifice @ 3/8 of an inch, you should be able to weld on a couple of 8" snowmobile carbide runners on each corner of the pan. I have not considered every implication of this, but it seems plausible. And easy.

 

No sense in welding anything to the oil pan.If you hot something with a regular pan,or with a pan that has a bash-guard on it,the rest of the pan will still crush,& your crank will chew up the rest.The oil pan is not made for structural support.
If you are going to put any type of bash-guard on anything,put it on the engine crossmember,but then you will have even less ground clearance.

 

Dry Sump System

http://www.oldsperformanceproducts.c...m%20Components

 

Doh, sorry about that.