72 Olds Project

Okay some of you have read previously that I have a terrible bog when the car is put into gear and you drive. You can rev it at idle all day and it sounds great. Someone pointed to an ignition issue. Well I tried a new distributor and I think I killed it. It started a couple of times and now it will not start at all. I tested my voltage and with the key on I am sending over 15.5 volts to the distributor! My buddy said he has a module that knocks it down to 12 volts. Could this possibly be causing all my issues? I fried my other coil...it literally burned the red wire in half. I guess it did the same with this one I ran a new wire from the fuse box to make sure I got rid of the resistance wire.

Thanks!

72 Olds Project

Also my original GM distributor still worked, but no matter what I timed it at it would do the same thing. I have tried 10 degrees to 15 degrees initial. The 15 just made the engine get hotter yet still had the huge bog and no power. I even put in new NGK's and gapped them to .045

oldcutlass

Have you tried checking out you power valve on your carb?? On a seperate note why is your alternator putting out a constant 15+v. Does your battery have issues or was it just low?

72 Olds Project

Well I have the newer Holley with the non blow out power valve type? Its a 750cfm Vacuum Secondaries. Good point and not sure why that would be. Again this was tested with the car off and just the switch turned on. The battery is new, but my alternator came from the motor that was originally in the car. It is a reman from Advance Auto. I had to charge the battery up because I was killing it due to trying to get it to start.

Thanks!

MDchanic

Ate you saying that you read 15.5 volts with the motor OFF?

- Eric

72 Olds Project

That is correct Eric. I am getting 15.5 volts with just the key switched to the on position, but not starting because it will not fire. This is coming from my wire that goes on the distributor under the cap. I tested the control module and coil...they both tested to be okay. I have never had so much of an issue with a rebuilt engine than with this 455. It just makes me more and more think I should have went ahead and threw in a 454 Again, the new dizzy started up barely and I had it running at idle. I went to put my probe on the #1 cylinder to set my timing and bam...the car just died once I got it around my plug wire. It will not fire since then. May put my old dizzy back on and see if that on works. Just afraid I may be sending too much juice through my ignition wire.

oldcutlass

You might get your alternator/voltage regulator checked. I think it is over charging!

72 Olds Project

Yeah I may have to pull it and get it tested just to verify. I will also check my battery voltage when I get home. I swear I think it was showing the same thing though

And Oldcutlass....I may be borrowing some explosives before this is all over. These issues are just driving me insane.

RetroRanger

[QUOTE=72 Olds Project;323400]I will also check my battery voltage when I get home. I swear I think it was showing the same thing though

/QUOTE]

may want to get that meter checked also if that is the case

what kind of meter is it

72 Olds Project

It is one made by Actron that I bought from Auto Zone years ago. I took my coil and module up to test and they had an ohmmeter too. I tested both coils and they both tested fine. Very weird

72 Olds Project

Good call Retro. I tested my battery with my meter and it said 17.7 Volts. IMPOSSIBLE. So I played with the new distributor...found I have spark on #1 so not the issue. What I did find is now I am not getting any fuel I already took the tank out to replace the sender and I guess I did not clean it out good. Something must be stuck there or in the line. Maybe I need to bite the bullet and buy a new tank. Wonder why the Chevelle tanks are different? They are cheaper Do you all run metal lines again for fuel or just say screw it and run all rubber?
Thanks!