fuel pump

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Old October 19th, 2012, 07:04 AM
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fuel pump

Hi All,
I'm having a heck of a time trying to to get my Olds 442 to start. The only way to get it started is to prime the carb with fuel through the float bowl vent. After repeating this proccess at least three times it will finally stay running and perform very well without any hesitation or signs of fuel starvation. I have already replaced the fuel pump twice and wondering where to go from here. I know the pressure side should be about 8 psi, but does anyone know how much vacuum a mechanical pump should pull. I figure if the pump is good, what are the odds there is an air leak in the line between the pump and the tank, all though i just replaced all the rubber hoses in the fuel system. (also new tank, pick-up and sender). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
John paul
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Old October 19th, 2012, 07:13 AM
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So when it's cold and looking down into the throat of the carb while pumping the accelerator linkage, there is no fuel squirting in there? Also what carb is on there?
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Old October 19th, 2012, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
So when it's cold and looking down into the throat of the carb while pumping the accelerator linkage, there is no fuel squirting in there? Also what carb is on there?
its a rochester Q-Jet. no fuel is getting in there. the carb itself is fine, the car will start if i prime the carb.
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Old October 19th, 2012, 09:21 AM
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Sounds like the bowl is leaking dry due to faulty well plugs in the bottom of the main body. A new[er] carb is the best solution. I can get a new 1967 numbered carb... but it's a service carb, with app number STAMPED into the left rear corner like 1968+ carbs. It is BRAND NEW and not real pricey vs. say a proper rebuild on yours which would include the sealing of the well plugs. If 100.000% originality is not a concern, and a NEW proper carb would work for you, text or call 517.449.0432 for more details.
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Old October 20th, 2012, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Octania
Sounds like the bowl is leaking dry due to faulty well plugs in the bottom of the main body. A new[er] carb is the best solution. I can get a new 1967 numbered carb... but it's a service carb, with app number STAMPED into the left rear corner like 1968+ carbs. It is BRAND NEW and not real pricey vs. say a proper rebuild on yours which would include the sealing of the well plugs. If 100.000% originality is not a concern, and a NEW proper carb would work for you, text or call 517.449.0432 for more details.
Thanks for your reply Octania. One thing i did forget to mention is that i also replaced the carb with a brand new one. Not sure if the well plugs are sealed in this one. That is a good observation though. Pretty much everything in the fuel system has been replaced including the fuel filter. What are the odds that the new fuel pump is no good. Thats why i was wondering if anyone knows how much suction, or if you will, vacuum, a mechanical pump is supposed to pull. I'd hate to throw another fuel pump at it and not solve the problem. Once again thanks for your assistance Octania.
Cheers,
John paul
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