Engine Continues to Run
April 13th, 2011, 04:24 PM
#1
Engine Continues to Run
hello everyone!
I have a 72 cutlass with a 455. Just recently the battery died on me. After I charged my battery and let me car run for a few minutes I proceeded to turn the ignition to the off position. While the key was turned to off the engine continued to run for a few seconds and then finally sputtered and stopped.
This never seems to happen to me when Im driving around the city and going places. It only really happens when I start the car at home, let it idle and then turn it off.
The car runs like a watch but I just dont want the problem to start happening when Im out driving elsewhere away from my house
anyways, thanks for your time!
I have a 72 cutlass with a 455. Just recently the battery died on me. After I charged my battery and let me car run for a few minutes I proceeded to turn the ignition to the off position. While the key was turned to off the engine continued to run for a few seconds and then finally sputtered and stopped.
This never seems to happen to me when Im driving around the city and going places. It only really happens when I start the car at home, let it idle and then turn it off.
The car runs like a watch but I just dont want the problem to start happening when Im out driving elsewhere away from my house
anyways, thanks for your time!
April 13th, 2011, 06:12 PM
#2
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
hello everyone!
I have a 72 cutlass with a 455. Just recently the battery died on me. After I charged my battery and let me car run for a few minutes I proceeded to turn the ignition to the off position. While the key was turned to off the engine continued to run for a few seconds and then finally sputtered and stopped.
This never seems to happen to me when Im driving around the city and going places. It only really happens when I start the car at home, let it idle and then turn it off.
The car runs like a watch but I just dont want the problem to start happening when Im out driving elsewhere away from my house
anyways, thanks for your time!
I have a 72 cutlass with a 455. Just recently the battery died on me. After I charged my battery and let me car run for a few minutes I proceeded to turn the ignition to the off position. While the key was turned to off the engine continued to run for a few seconds and then finally sputtered and stopped.
This never seems to happen to me when Im driving around the city and going places. It only really happens when I start the car at home, let it idle and then turn it off.
The car runs like a watch but I just dont want the problem to start happening when Im out driving elsewhere away from my house
anyways, thanks for your time!
1. Check to see if your fuel filter is plugged.
2. Check to see if your anti dieseling solenoid is set properly.
April 14th, 2011, 07:55 AM
#4
I agree with oldscutlass. check ur timing. its not good for your car to do that. if u cant fix it leave it in gear turn ur key off then put it in park. safer on ur engine that way. but i would check ur timing. hopefully u get it fixed.
April 14th, 2011, 10:22 AM
#6
I dont have a timing light. If i were just to retard the destributer by a few degrees would that be ok or should i not adjust it without the light.
I am just getting into classic cars and I dont have many tools(I worked construction so I have all basic tools but nothing auto specific)
Would you say that a timing light is something that I should buy and use often? I know thats probably a dumb question but Im a begginer to working on cars and need advice. any other tools that I should absolutely have?(I already have ratchets, wrenches and all sorts of fittings)
I am just getting into classic cars and I dont have many tools(I worked construction so I have all basic tools but nothing auto specific)
Would you say that a timing light is something that I should buy and use often? I know thats probably a dumb question but Im a begginer to working on cars and need advice. any other tools that I should absolutely have?(I already have ratchets, wrenches and all sorts of fittings)
April 14th, 2011, 10:53 AM
#7
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
You need a timing light, a tach., an a dwell meter. Also a Volt / Ohm meter.
I'm sure we could come up with a much longer list, but those are essential.
You should be able to pick up a good tach/dwell/volt meter and timing light at a yard sale or flea market for $5-10 each.
- Eric
I'm sure we could come up with a much longer list, but those are essential.
You should be able to pick up a good tach/dwell/volt meter and timing light at a yard sale or flea market for $5-10 each.
- Eric
April 14th, 2011, 11:36 AM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rathdrum, Idano
Posts: 9,127
I agree, check the timing first. Then look to carbon buildup. Get out and take it for a long drive at highway speeds and then see how it acts. You can rent timing lights at most chain auto parts stores
April 14th, 2011, 11:36 AM
#9
You need a timing light, a tach., an a dwell meter. Also a Volt / Ohm meter.
I'm sure we could come up with a much longer list, but those are essential.
You should be able to pick up a good tach/dwell/volt meter and timing light at a yard sale or flea market for $5-10 each.
- Eric
I'm sure we could come up with a much longer list, but those are essential.
You should be able to pick up a good tach/dwell/volt meter and timing light at a yard sale or flea market for $5-10 each.
- Eric
thanks eric!
My friends arent really into cars and this is my first project so I really appreciate the advise.
April 14th, 2011, 11:36 AM
#10
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 4,430
Did you hit the gas once to get it off the choke idle before you shut it down?
Was the engine idling at the same speed it normally does when it's warmed up and you put it in park in other words.
When it's cold the choke makes it idle higher and if it was only running a few minutes and you didn't touch the accelerator pedal or carb linkage it may have still been up on the high idle.
With the throttle plate open and the high idle it can run on for a few seconds when you shut it off if you don't kick it down to the lower idle first.
Was the engine idling at the same speed it normally does when it's warmed up and you put it in park in other words.
When it's cold the choke makes it idle higher and if it was only running a few minutes and you didn't touch the accelerator pedal or carb linkage it may have still been up on the high idle.
With the throttle plate open and the high idle it can run on for a few seconds when you shut it off if you don't kick it down to the lower idle first.
April 14th, 2011, 12:02 PM
#11
Did you hit the gas once to get it off the choke idle before you shut it down?
Was the engine idling at the same speed it normally does when it's warmed up and you put it in park in other words.
When it's cold the choke makes it idle higher and if it was only running a few minutes and you didn't touch the accelerator pedal or carb linkage it may have still been up on the high idle.
With the throttle plate open and the high idle it can run on for a few seconds when you shut it off if you don't kick it down to the lower idle first.
Was the engine idling at the same speed it normally does when it's warmed up and you put it in park in other words.
When it's cold the choke makes it idle higher and if it was only running a few minutes and you didn't touch the accelerator pedal or carb linkage it may have still been up on the high idle.
With the throttle plate open and the high idle it can run on for a few seconds when you shut it off if you don't kick it down to the lower idle first.
im going to check the timing and idle regardless.
Im new to this site and everyone is super helpful! I really appreciate the tips!
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