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balancer moved forward possibly causing vibration?
Hey guys, what do you think of my balancer on my stroker motor. Under hard acceleration i heard something thunk? It immediately started vibrating really bad. Can feel it throughout the whole car. I've looked at motor mounts, transmission mounts, all over and can't figure out what happened. Tonight we were looking it over again and noticed the balancer looks like it might be moved forward. What is you guys thoughts?
The big question is WHY did the damper fail? Excess crankshaft vibration more than the damper could withstand? You'll have to figure out what's wrong that's causing excessive vibration.
If you're lucky, it's just an ancient damper that was ready to fail from age.
The big question is WHY did the damper fail? Excess crankshaft vibration more than the damper could withstand? You'll have to figure out what's wrong that's causing excessive vibration.
If you're lucky, it's just an ancient damper that was ready to fail from age.
69 block. Damper was only a year or so old. Appreciate replies
Yes, the balancer ring moved axially; however, most of the vibration is probably due to the balancer ring turning relative to the crankshaft. Heat and age cause the rubber between the two parts to harden and shrink, leading to this problem.
If you would like to keep a stock balancer, you can send your unit to be rebuilt with silicone bonding agent between the ring and hub. I've had this done on two balancers and it works superbly. The silicone will not shrink and sticks well to both parts.
That's what my cousin was thinking although i got it from my speedshop. If this was externally balanced would i need to get a harmonic fluid damper to solve this?
The factory used an elastomer-type damper (the type in your picture) and these lasted many years. Unfortunately chinesium elastomeric dampers have infected the supply chain and you will need to buy from a Olds-knowledgable supplier such as Fusick, BTR, Olds Performance Products, etc. to escape this scourge.
A viscous (fluid) damper will work well but is not usually required unless you are making big horsepower.
The factory used an elastomer-type damper (the type in your picture) and these lasted many years. Unfortunately chinesium elastomeric dampers have infected the supply chain and you will need to buy from a Olds-knowledgable supplier such as Fusick, BTR, Olds Performance Products, etc. to escape this scourge.
A viscous (fluid) damper will work well but is not usually required unless you are making big horsepower.
ok. thanks. this is a 500 plus hp 600 torque plus stroker. would you go fluid or standard? I have my original one also that looks good also.. appreciate your time
..this is a 500 plus hp 600 torque plus stroker...
Nice!
Use a viscous damper for that application. The only caution being that some that fit Olds' cranks are only drilled for Chev pulleys. Check this out ahead of time and have a machine shop fix this. Some suppliers will be able to do this for you. So ask before you buy.
Use a viscous damper for that application. The only caution being that some that fit Olds' cranks are only drilled for Chev pulleys. Check this out ahead of time and have a machine shop fix this. Some suppliers will be able to do this for you. So ask before you buy.
October 18th, 2019, 07:03 PM
