Looking to see if anyone has run into this issue and if so what they did. I just did a test fit of my new Pro Comp heads and as you can see, making contact to the mech fuel pump, so much that I cant get the head to lay flat unless I remove the fuel pump.

Ideas on what brand clears? I’m running a standard Rochester 4 BBL and OAI, car is a 72 with a 455

 

The Airtex 40736 will fit, but it’s TIGHT. It may help to oval the mounting holes a little to allow the pump to slide forward a bit. That pump cleared my Edelbrock heads, I’m guessing it will fit the Procomps.

 

Thank you !

 

I took a deburring tool and made a small notch in the head for clearance. There is a lot of meat there to work with. Can send a pic later if needed.

 

Yes the thought crossed my mind...but if I can avoid that I would like too.
and yes a bit nervous about grinding on the very expensive heads.

 

It is not as bad as it seems. Grinds very clean and easy.

 

That is exactly what I did. Just enough to clear and not touch and not transfer heat to the pump. Maybe 3/16 or an 1/8 all around, no touch.

gene

 

OK you guys may have convinced me. What did you use to grind on the aluminum Dremel angle grinder etc.

 

An air grinder with a tear drop shaped deburring bit. A dremel should work as well.

 

The bit looks like this.

 

Thank you !

 

Oil the burr tool before cutting. It cuts better and will keep the aluminum from clogging the flutes on the burr.

 

Concur with the oil (unless you have to borrow the bit from someone you don't like). Contouring the ground area to ensure an air gap to prevent fuel from picking up any head heat. It's going to be flowing while driving which will help keep the pump cool, but the heat it picks up with the engine off is the consideration should it be in contact with the head.

Although, I wonder- if trying to maximize power by using the aluminum head setup, wouldn't you want every possible parasitic loss to be gone? Why not run an electric pump? Just asking.

 

They both require energy to work. In the case of the electric pump, there will be additional load on the alternator. I don't know how that translates into total loss of power comparing between a mechanical and electric pump.

 

I believe the issue is the gasket between the engine block and fuel pump will not seal because of the interference.

 

You may gain 0.00008 HP by swapping to an electric pump. For all intents and purposes, about the only 2 plusses the electric pump has over the mechanical is that you can mount it away from any heat producing engine/exhaust parts and can easily swap it out for more pump capacity fairly easily if you needed to.

It just would be a consideration should you decide not to cut on the head.

 

Agree with you. Might, maybe easier to install an electric pump. I'm running an electric pump on an EFI 455, I found it a pain in the a.. to install next to the gas tank, as low as possible since electric pumps don't pull very well, the push really well. Of course, I also upgraded the line to 1/2 PTFE braided line and used the original 3/8 line as a return line - which you should not have to do with a carburetor (I don't think).

 

Q. Why would a company build a cylinder head that DOESN'T FIT common accessories?

A. Communist China.

 

I have asked that question for years. I guess it’s easier/cheaper to cast the head with a square end, instead of all the complex contours for the accessory mounts

 

I usually spin mine on a bar of soap before grinding aliminum.

 

...or to have a 7-year-old grind the casting before it's put into a box for shipment.

 

Grinding the head isn’t the issue. The problem is not grinding into the water jacket. It takes very little grinding to clear a factory style pump. Grinding away enough material to fit a RobbMc pump will hit water every time. I had Bill Travoto machine and weld material to clear the RobbMc pump several years ago. It wasn’t terribly expensive, I don’t remember what he charged but my wife didn’t complain much!