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So I got the first purchase today... the factory service manual. In looking thru it I am seeing a lot of good info, but found the oil recommendation interesting and am wondering if 50 years of oil technology advancement changes anything. In a diagram on page 0-15, the recommended viscosities for the typical temps in my area (South Texas) are shown as: 20W, 10W-30, 10W-40, 20W-40
Also, the change interval is shown as every 4 months or 6,000 miles with filter changed every other oil change (8 mo / 12,000 miles). What are all of you with Rocket 455's and large bodies actually doing?
Oil and filter every time. A diesel 15w-40 such as Motorcraft or Rotella would be my choice. I'd lean toward a 15w-40 non synthetic, that engine has a rope type rear main crankshaft seal that is 50 years old. I wouldn't be switching to a synthetic at this point.
For intervals it depends on how it's driven, for mostly short trips about 2.5 K for longer type runs I may go to 4k.
The absolute cheapest oil today will have a additive recipe superior to the best oils available when the car was new.
that car has a very mild cam, the valve springs are no doubt tired, and the cam and lifters have had decades to establish a wear pattern.
I’d run 15wRotella. That should have enough zinc (even with the reduced zinc content of the last few years) another choice would be 10w30 or 10w40 VR1 racing oil. That will definitely have more than enough zinc for a flat tappet cam. Can’t go wrong with a Wix oil filter.
I have never put to much belief in the synthetic oil causing leaks. In my opinion, it’s right up there with the myth of not changing high mileage transmission fluid and filters, not rotating radial tires, and all the other stupid myths that have been around for years that just won’t die. If the r gone doesn’t leak or use oil now, synthetic won’t cause leaks.
Last edited by matt69olds; Mar 9, 2022 at 09:15 PM.
I put Rotella 15W-40 in my 71 and my 96. Lately it's been more difficult to find so I bought Traveller 15W-40,a house-brand diesel oil from Tractor Supply.
The absolute cheapest oil today will have a additive recipe superior to the best oils available when the car was new.
Modern oils are also formulated for metallurgy and machining tolerances that simply didn't exist in 1970. It's also formulated more for emissions standards and wringing the last drop of fuel economy than it is for protecting 50 year old friction surfaces. That's why zinc and phosphorus were eliminated- it supposedly poisons and neuters catalytic converters.
If an engine has been reasonably well maintained using good oils and filters, using a modern synthetic BLEND oil will probably not hurt it.
NAPA house brand oil is made by Valvoline. I'd use that, 30 or 10w30, along with a NAPA filter (made by WIX). It's a synthetic blend. Substituting a quart of blue Rislone for a quart of oil at oil change won't hurt anything and will help keep lifters clean.
Change oil according to how the car is used. Daily driving at highway speeds, 30 to 60 miles a day with everything up to operating temperature, you can get by with a 5000 mile change interval. For a collector type car that won't see 5000 miles in two years, change oil and filter AT LEAST YEARLY. More often if engine is used in short trip or other severe service.
Valvoline VR-1 10W30 and a Wix filter. Why is everyone sticking molasses in their street engine?
I wouldn’t call 15w40 molasses. VR1 racing oil is expensive compared to the Rotella, and for a stock unmolested engine, is probably overkill. Unless your trying to start your classic car in 20 degree weather, your not going to notice a difference in 10w30 or 15w40.
I don’t have my owners/service manual nearby, but I’m pretty sure 30w and 40w were common when these cars were new. I think it was outlined in the books as acceptable depending on climate. The Rotella oil is a good economical compromise.
NAPA house brand oil is made by Valvoline. I'd use that, 30 or 10w30, along with a NAPA filter (made by WIX).
Just curious. Has any one cut open the Wix and NAPA filters to compare the filter media? Although the NAPA filter is made by WIX it is also made to NAPA specifications. The NAPA filter may not be the same internally as the WIX.
For example there are only a small handful of automotive battery manufacturers but how brands of batteries can you name? Dozens? Scores? Heck you can have Rocketraider batteries made if you place an order large enough. Wix will do the same with Rocketraider filters too. Each brand will be different spec based on price point and marketing.
Rather than busting my ***** and inferring I don't know anything, why not give the OP a recommendation for oil and filter like he asked?
If OP's engine has been maintained at all, the NAPA products will work fine for a 455 in a Ninety Eight that doubtful will ever see a 6500rpm dyno pull.
Rather than busting my ***** and inferring I don't know anything, why not give the OP a recommendation for oil and filter like he asked?
If OP's engine has been maintained at all, the NAPA products will work fine for a 455 in a Ninety Eight that doubtful will ever see a 6500rpm dyno pull.
I hope this wasn't directed at me. My intent was never intended to bust any ones' ***** or infer not knowing anything. My sincerest apologies if that's how I came off. My post was based on decades of professional automotive repair and intended for conversation and sharing of knowledge. Peace.
Last edited by Dynoking; Mar 11, 2022 at 10:14 AM.
Valvoline VR-1 10W30 and a Wix filter. Why is everyone sticking molasses in their street engine?
In my case, it's because I live in a hot environment. The engine oil charts show 10w-30 is good for up to 95ºF, and we are above that for 6 months every year, and during the peak of summer, it gets 20+ degrees higher than that.
In my case, it's because I live in a hot environment. The engine oil charts show 10w-30 is good for up to 95ºF, and we are above that for 6 months every year, and during the peak of summer, it gets 20+ degrees higher than that.
So yeah, molasses for my engine.
From the 1971 Owner's Manual. I'll also add that 99.9% of the people who swear that they need diesel oil do NOT live in Phoenix.
Joe,
All of the charts I found online are similar to the one below, showing 30w oils at max of 35ºC / 95ºF. I have no idea why this is different from the 1971 chart you posted.
