455 piston selection
#1
455 piston selection
Hey folks, so my engine is at the machine shop. It had to have 3 cylinders sleeved, and then everything bored .030 over.
I'm trying to shop around for pistons, and I have a goal of 9:1 CR or so.
Cylinder heads are E code 80cc (99 percent sure they have never been shaved).
Any of you have a piston recommendation? I was thinking -25 to -30cc, but I am no expert at calculating compression. Id like to be able to run 87, or 89, super is really expensive where I live.
I'm trying to shop around for pistons, and I have a goal of 9:1 CR or so.
Cylinder heads are E code 80cc (99 percent sure they have never been shaved).
Any of you have a piston recommendation? I was thinking -25 to -30cc, but I am no expert at calculating compression. Id like to be able to run 87, or 89, super is really expensive where I live.
#2
Hey folks, so my engine is at the machine shop. It had to have 3 cylinders sleeved, and then everything bored .030 over.
I'm trying to shop around for pistons, and I have a goal of 9:1 CR or so.
Cylinder heads are E code 80cc (99 percent sure they have never been shaved).
Any of you have a piston recommendation? I was thinking -25 to -30cc, but I am no expert at calculating compression. Id like to be able to run 87, or 89, super is really expensive where I live.
I'm trying to shop around for pistons, and I have a goal of 9:1 CR or so.
Cylinder heads are E code 80cc (99 percent sure they have never been shaved).
Any of you have a piston recommendation? I was thinking -25 to -30cc, but I am no expert at calculating compression. Id like to be able to run 87, or 89, super is really expensive where I live.
#3
#4
#5
If you go with the KB's make sure to read the instructions very closely as far as ring end gaps. The KB pistons typically require a much larger top ring end gap than normal. You WILL have to file fit the top rings. If you don't understand the instructions, ask your machine shop.
You might want to ask your machine shop about ordering you an entire engine kit with the KB pistons in it. You will always save money by buying a complete rebuild kit with the parts you need as compared to buying everything separately. I can usually meet or beat most of the mail order prices on Olds parts. Your machine shop might be able to do the same ?
You might want to ask your machine shop about ordering you an entire engine kit with the KB pistons in it. You will always save money by buying a complete rebuild kit with the parts you need as compared to buying everything separately. I can usually meet or beat most of the mail order prices on Olds parts. Your machine shop might be able to do the same ?
#6
If you go with the KB's make sure to read the instructions very closely as far as ring end gaps. The KB pistons typically require a much larger top ring end gap than normal. You WILL have to file fit the top rings. If you don't understand the instructions, ask your machine shop.
You might want to ask your machine shop about ordering you an entire engine kit with the KB pistons in it. You will always save money by buying a complete rebuild kit with the parts you need as compared to buying everything separately. I can usually meet or beat most of the mail order prices on Olds parts. Your machine shop might be able to do the same ?
You might want to ask your machine shop about ordering you an entire engine kit with the KB pistons in it. You will always save money by buying a complete rebuild kit with the parts you need as compared to buying everything separately. I can usually meet or beat most of the mail order prices on Olds parts. Your machine shop might be able to do the same ?
#7
Hey folks, so my engine is at the machine shop. It had to have 3 cylinders sleeved, and then everything bored .030 over.
I'm trying to shop around for pistons, and I have a goal of 9:1 CR or so.
Cylinder heads are E code 80cc (99 percent sure they have never been shaved).
Any of you have a piston recommendation? I was thinking -25 to -30cc, but I am no expert at calculating compression. Id like to be able to run 87, or 89, super is really expensive where I live.
I'm trying to shop around for pistons, and I have a goal of 9:1 CR or so.
Cylinder heads are E code 80cc (99 percent sure they have never been shaved).
Any of you have a piston recommendation? I was thinking -25 to -30cc, but I am no expert at calculating compression. Id like to be able to run 87, or 89, super is really expensive where I live.
Just built one of these recently, customer very satisfied with the outcome. Platform was 455" , forged .030" over Icon pistons/H-beam rods, 9:1 C.R., retro-hyd-roller, and 100% stock-appearing outside.
This was dynoed with the Q-jet carb and OEM factory int/exh manifolds, unit made 404+ HP @ 5200 and 481# Torque @ 3800.
(Add) Hi Bill (above)!
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. This is not a simple "bolt-together" build, much "clearancing" to make it all fit together but the results are well worth the effort.
#8
I would strongly recommend staying with the forged pistons and definitely NOT using any cast pieces.
Just built one of these recently, customer very satisfied with the outcome. Platform was 455" , forged .030" over Icon pistons/H-beam rods, 9:1 C.R., retro-hyd-roller, and 100% stock-appearing outside.
This was dynoed with the Q-jet carb and OEM factory int/exh manifolds, unit made 404+ HP @ 5200 and 481# Torque @ 3800.
(Add) Hi Bill (above)!
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. This is not a simple "bolt-together" build, much "clearancing" to make it all fit together but the results are well worth the effort.
Just built one of these recently, customer very satisfied with the outcome. Platform was 455" , forged .030" over Icon pistons/H-beam rods, 9:1 C.R., retro-hyd-roller, and 100% stock-appearing outside.
This was dynoed with the Q-jet carb and OEM factory int/exh manifolds, unit made 404+ HP @ 5200 and 481# Torque @ 3800.
(Add) Hi Bill (above)!
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. This is not a simple "bolt-together" build, much "clearancing" to make it all fit together but the results are well worth the effort.
Are these the pistons you used? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/u...ake/oldsmobile
Also curious on cam selection etc. I will be running a single plane intake (possibly) because I've heard issues running dual plane with a fitech system.
#9
Are these the pistons you used? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/u...ake/oldsmobile
Also curious on cam selection etc. I will be running a single plane intake (possibly) because I've heard issues running dual plane with a fitech system.
Also curious on cam selection etc. I will be running a single plane intake (possibly) because I've heard issues running dual plane with a fitech system.
#10
Are these the pistons you used? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/u...ake/oldsmobile
Also curious on cam selection etc. I will be running a single plane intake (possibly) because I've heard issues running dual plane with a fitech system.
Also curious on cam selection etc. I will be running a single plane intake (possibly) because I've heard issues running dual plane with a fitech system.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. If you should end up using those pistons I would also consider taking advantage of the "floated" wrist pins with the lock rings by using a set of Eagle H-beam rods. It helps to raise the HP numbers. The L/W (1/16") ring pack alone on those Icon's is a "plus" for power.
#11
Edelbrock is way over what I'm willing to pay. I'll either run the Fitech, or go with a Holley Sniper Efi kit. If you're willing to help me choose a cam, that would be great. Still on the fence about a hydraulic roller, or a flat tappet. Would like the hydraulic roller, so I could run regular oil with no additives.
#12
Definitely the right pistons, definitely the wrong price though!! Don't know why they have them priced that high??
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. If you should end up using those pistons I would also consider taking advantage of the "floated" wrist pins with the lock rings by using a set of Eagle H-beam rods. It helps to raise the HP numbers. The L/W (1/16") ring pack alone on those Icon's is a "plus" for power.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. If you should end up using those pistons I would also consider taking advantage of the "floated" wrist pins with the lock rings by using a set of Eagle H-beam rods. It helps to raise the HP numbers. The L/W (1/16") ring pack alone on those Icon's is a "plus" for power.
#13
I have a set of ICON887s 30 over. They have never been run but were hung on rods but taken off. I ended up going with ICON 886. I will let them go for $400 shipped. You can PM me if interested.
#14
#16
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Al2011
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February 29th, 2012 06:49 AM