455 Ga head blues
#1
455 Ga head blues
Hey folks,
So I dropped my Ga heads at the shop for cleaning/inspection etc, and here's what I got...
all valves need to go
all springs, seals and guides need to go
1 thread needs to be retapped
The quote I have is 422 for parts and 360 for labor. With a couple other things the total would be 806.
Now, I know it'd be 2 fresh heads and all, but this isn't even porting or anything. If I look at rockauto, I can get the parts for 300, which seems like an awful lot, especially since the valves need to be the more expensive ones (1.684" exhaust and 1.995" intake) according to what the machinist told me. He also quoted me on dual springs. Now, are these heads worth investing into or should I just look into another pair? Looks like going aluminum would be 1k a piece new. If I bring all the parts to them, I can get out with $360 "only". This is a bone stock '72 455, not looking for a performance rebuild.
--
Dante
So I dropped my Ga heads at the shop for cleaning/inspection etc, and here's what I got...
all valves need to go
all springs, seals and guides need to go
1 thread needs to be retapped
The quote I have is 422 for parts and 360 for labor. With a couple other things the total would be 806.
Now, I know it'd be 2 fresh heads and all, but this isn't even porting or anything. If I look at rockauto, I can get the parts for 300, which seems like an awful lot, especially since the valves need to be the more expensive ones (1.684" exhaust and 1.995" intake) according to what the machinist told me. He also quoted me on dual springs. Now, are these heads worth investing into or should I just look into another pair? Looks like going aluminum would be 1k a piece new. If I bring all the parts to them, I can get out with $360 "only". This is a bone stock '72 455, not looking for a performance rebuild.
--
Dante
#2
My first step would be to check a different machine shop. I don't think I've ever had a set of heads that needed all the valves, all the guides and all the springs replaced. You should be able to get a set of heads done for a daily driver at much less than what you were quoted.
My 2 cents worth....
John
My 2 cents worth....
John
#3
I'm thinking I'm gonna stop by to take a look at it myself at these heads, and I might just do some fresh springs and seals. The valves looked ok to me when assembled, so we'll see.
As for the springs, any reason to go regular or dual on stock builds? Any huge improvements going dual?
--
Dante
As for the springs, any reason to go regular or dual on stock builds? Any huge improvements going dual?
--
Dante
#4
Seals for sure, and I wouldn't be surprised if some of the valves need replaced. Typically the exhaust valves are more prone to go bad. Springs are your choice, but for a driver quality car I'd check the ones you have before spending $$ for new ones. I'm just really taken aback that the machine shop wants to replace everything except the head castings!
John
John
#5
I'm thinking I'm gonna stop by to take a look at it myself at these heads, and I might just do some fresh springs and seals. The valves looked ok to me when assembled, so we'll see.
As for the springs, any reason to go regular or dual on stock builds? Any huge improvements going dual?
--
Dante
As for the springs, any reason to go regular or dual on stock builds? Any huge improvements going dual?
--
Dante
#6
I think that is high my shop quoted me 450 totally rebuilt sight un seen and another 350 for a light port and polish
Get a another quote
I bet for a driver you could find a used set ready to bolt on or have been rebuilt already for around 400.00
Get a another quote
I bet for a driver you could find a used set ready to bolt on or have been rebuilt already for around 400.00
Last edited by oldstata; October 10th, 2013 at 07:56 PM.
#7
Weeeellll....Edelbrock valve springs are $43 of reassurance, but ya, those valves, check Ebay for better prices. What size are they? I can check with my supplier. I can usually get them for $10 or $11 per valve
#10
Oh, and a guide on an Olds head cooked? I guess if they were really rusted, but steel guides...meh... I haven't seen 'em, nor has my machinist. Not saying it can't happen....but...just sayin'.... Get a second opinion. On the valves, consider the decimal numbers 1.992 vs 1.995... .003 difference, 1/5 the cost. Here's the Rockauto coupon code
1733170114654117
1733170114654117
Last edited by brownbomber77; October 10th, 2013 at 09:55 PM.
#11
I went with the Aluminum Procomps... $1095 to my door.
Running great.... Nice alternative to fixing up worn out iron ones.
#12
So I picked up everything from the shop today. The heads are completely disassembled. The whole cleanup and inspection ended up being $120 for 2 heads and the manifold. Dropped it off at another shop (recommended by a friend who had a cutlass) so the guy can actually inspect the valves/springs and see what can be reused. Looking at it disassembled, there's only 2 or 3 guides that need to be machined, and most of the springs can be reused. Also looking into using the 1.992" intake valves. We'll see how it goes.
--
Dante
--
Dante
#13
#14
So I picked up everything from the shop today. The heads are completely disassembled. The whole cleanup and inspection ended up being $120 for 2 heads and the manifold. Dropped it off at another shop (recommended by a friend who had a cutlass) so the guy can actually inspect the valves/springs and see what can be reused. Looking at it disassembled, there's only 2 or 3 guides that need to be machined, and most of the springs can be reused. Also looking into using the 1.992" intake valves. We'll see how it goes.
--
Dante
--
Dante
John
#15
Edelbrock replacement valve springs, the ones that they put on their aluminum heads, are $43.... $43 I think is a solid investment over 30 year old valve springs. Anyway, calling around and asking is not unreasonable thing to do. My brother lives in San Diego and he was blown away at machining cost compared to Illinois.
#16
He was quite happy with it all- and put it back together- I'm running it that way now.
For $400 more you can buy the same ones from bernard mondello, fully checked out with minor porting, & better hardware... But i figured for my power needs the extra stuff wasn't necessary.
#19
What are these heads for? Unless you are sticking with originality,the iron heads are becoming less cost-effective vs buying aluminum heads. I doubt your heads need all new valves,unless that thing was rattling for ever.I would start with the heads themselves. How are all of the seats & guides? I hate to see one or two guies replaced in a set of heads,but that's your call.They are 42yrs old.,and since you have them out & apart,now is the time to do anything needed.If a few guides are worn,then I would do all 16. Then look at the seats. If the intake seats are bad,AND you have to get new valves,then I would machine them for the larger valve.The exhaust,good or bad can be left the stock size.
I saved a few boxes of stock valves.Whenever I stripped heads,I kept the valves if they were good.I can look and see what I have.
As for springs,Crane made a nice,inexpensive kit,that was good up to .550" lift.I used those on a lot of resto & mild street applications with great results.those Edelbrock springs should work too.
If you were planning on having the heads rebuilt AND having them ported,then I would just look at new aluminum heads.You would be further ahead(no pun).
If you go with aluminum heads,buy them bare,and assemble them with the parts that you need.You see a lot of people selling the valvetrain parts from their new Edelbrocks because they won't work for what they are doing.
I saved a few boxes of stock valves.Whenever I stripped heads,I kept the valves if they were good.I can look and see what I have.
As for springs,Crane made a nice,inexpensive kit,that was good up to .550" lift.I used those on a lot of resto & mild street applications with great results.those Edelbrock springs should work too.
If you were planning on having the heads rebuilt AND having them ported,then I would just look at new aluminum heads.You would be further ahead(no pun).
If you go with aluminum heads,buy them bare,and assemble them with the parts that you need.You see a lot of people selling the valvetrain parts from their new Edelbrocks because they won't work for what they are doing.
#20
Let us know what the new shop says. My E heads needed new springs due to the higher lift cam, new seals and that's it. I went ahead and put the 2.07 valves in the intake and harden valve seats. Did some minor pocket porting and smoothed the combustion chamber myself. This was my second time rebuilding these heads. They also CC'd out at 78cc. I'm assuming they were milled .010 both times.
#21
Picked up the heads this week. Final bill was $500, from the 2nd shop. Only a couple guides needed machining, no seats were damaged, but all valves had extensive stem damage from water (previously blown head gasket). Here are some pics of one of them.
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