455 Camshaft Choice / Decision - Please Help!
#1
455 Camshaft Choice / Decision - Please Help!
I am getting ready to build a new 455, but the camshaft choices are making my head spin. I am hoping for an honest 500 HP / 600 TQ. The engine will be going in a 3600 lb '69 Cutlass. Stock stroke, .030 forged pistons (461), approx 10:1 compression, Edelbrock Aluminum RPM heads (out of the box), Edelbrock Performer Air Gap intake manifold, Holley 850 carb, Headers w/ 2 1/2" exhaust, Turbo 400 w/ 2400 RPM stall convertor, 3.90 gears w/ 28" tires & power brakes, so I need some vacuum.
I am on the fence between hydraulic flat tappet or hydraulic roller, then comes the choice of manufacturer and specifications.
Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks, Bob
I am on the fence between hydraulic flat tappet or hydraulic roller, then comes the choice of manufacturer and specifications.
Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks, Bob
#3
Hmmm that's a little optimistic Randy. Apples to apples probably more along the lines of 25-30, depending on the grind and combination.
To reach 500hp and 600lbft of torque it ain't gonna happen with a power brake friendly cam, 10.0:1, and stock Edelbrocks, sorry. But with KB IC886 pistons, a Hyd roller with around 242/248 at .050 on a 112 should give you upper 400's and plenty of torque. Much bigger than that and your vacuum will be marginal.
I grind custom rollers for $675.00 with lifters, flat tappets are $265.00 with lifters. Let me know if I can be of help.
To reach 500hp and 600lbft of torque it ain't gonna happen with a power brake friendly cam, 10.0:1, and stock Edelbrocks, sorry. But with KB IC886 pistons, a Hyd roller with around 242/248 at .050 on a 112 should give you upper 400's and plenty of torque. Much bigger than that and your vacuum will be marginal.
I grind custom rollers for $675.00 with lifters, flat tappets are $265.00 with lifters. Let me know if I can be of help.
Last edited by cutlassefi; October 4th, 2011 at 06:11 PM.
#5
I kinda agree with cutlassefi here. Either a quick ramp solid lifter cam, or a roller will be needed. Hydraulic flat tappet cams will get you over 400 but probably not real close to 500. It is a lot easier to pick a number than to make it, unfortunately. When you add in the vacuum issue, you just are shooting your horsepower goal in the foot. You can finesse things like lobe center to improve vacuum, but not enough for lots of vacuum with 500 HP. You are further limiting your engine if you go with heavy pistons, pins, and stock rods. Those things aren't happy at high rpm--NHRA stockers (which have to have stock weight reciprocating assemblies) generally restrict 455s to 5500 rpm whereas other engines are spinning much higher. Improving airflow and lengthening camshaft duration go along with more rpm and result in more HP.
#6
I second cutlassefi. 600 torque shouldnt be too terrible to hit on a formula like that, maybe try to get compression to 10.5. But the Olds 455 isnt a horsepower player, torque is what wins most of its races. But if horsepower is a must id say go with the roller cam, and cutlassefi's grind sounds like a good one to look for top end horsepower in
#7
I agree cam choice is an issue here for sure. Cutlassfi did this cam grind for my current 455 build. Also attached is the full build sheet. I hope to accomplish around the 450+ range with this build
#8
I am getting ready to build a new 455, but the camshaft choices are making my head spin. I am hoping for an honest 500 HP / 600 TQ. The engine will be going in a 3600 lb '69 Cutlass. Stock stroke, .030 forged pistons (461), approx 10:1 compression, Edelbrock Aluminum RPM heads (out of the box), Edelbrock Performer Air Gap intake manifold, Holley 850 carb, Headers w/ 2 1/2" exhaust, Turbo 400 w/ 2400 RPM stall convertor, 3.90 gears w/ 28" tires & power brakes, so I need some vacuum.
I am on the fence between hydraulic flat tappet or hydraulic roller, then comes the choice of manufacturer and specifications.
Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks, Bob
I am on the fence between hydraulic flat tappet or hydraulic roller, then comes the choice of manufacturer and specifications.
Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks, Bob
Engine Specs:
- Fa Block - bored .060" (468 C.I.), decked .006" (maybe more by previous build, deck height is less than .005), de-burred, oil restrictors in 2,3,4 main journals
- Nodular crank - Shot peened, ARP main studs, Billet steel main cap straps (2,3,4 mains)
- Stock rods - Shot peened, ARP rod bolts
- Keith Black IC886 Flat top pistons .060" oversize (CR 10.63 w/ .040" gasket)
- High pressure / High volume oil pump, chromeoly hardened drive shaft, 8 quart pan, full length windage tray
- Engle cam - (Mondello MPV 1-2) Solid flat tappet 557/574 lift, 244/252 Duration @ .050", 110 lobe separation
- Timing chain - Cloyes true roller (double) w/ cam spacer and bushing
- Push rods - 3/8" oversize, hardened, oil restricting
- Rocker arms - 1:6 ratio aluminum roller
- Edelbrock heads - CNC ported, ARP 7/16" head studs
- Edelbrock Torker intake - Ported, port matched to heads, plenum cone
- Holly 4150 HP 950 - Built specifically for this engine by DaVinci PERFORMANCE CARBURETORS
#10
Thank you guys for all the input!
cutlassefi,
I know if I use a hydraulic roller cam I will have to change the valve springs on the Edelbrock heads, but I assume I can use the existing valves?
cutlassefi,
I know if I use a hydraulic roller cam I will have to change the valve springs on the Edelbrock heads, but I assume I can use the existing valves?
#12
Depending on the cam yes you may have to change the springs but the existing valves should be fine.
#13
Approx $7,800.00. But I bought my heads used with the porting and bowl work already done along with the Roller rockers from a guy for a hell of a cheap price. The rods and pistons were bought from guys who changed there minds on their build and I also bought them for a hell of a price. I also cut a deal with the machine shop to build this with no time table and use as filler work which took 8-1/2 months. If I had to do this retail all the way and also on a normal build time table most likely be around 9k or more
#16
yyyyeeah and...
But now I know better after reading the BOOK. No mo polling for me. From now on, I will go straight to the old homely guy at the local machine shop for expertise. No mo 2nd guessing here.
But now I know better after reading the BOOK. No mo polling for me. From now on, I will go straight to the old homely guy at the local machine shop for expertise. No mo 2nd guessing here.
#18
#19
My 455 is mostly stock, but from everything I've taken in here on this site and from my engine building experience, f/ 35 years or so, "Cutlassefi" is the man to get w/ when working out which cam to get. F/ sure get one done by this guy. F/ the money, how in the hell could you afford not to get him to do it. Get the very most out of your build and get the cam ground f/ that specific build. Good Luck.
#20
Approx $7,800.00. But I bought my heads used with the porting and bowl work already done along with the Roller rockers from a guy for a hell of a cheap price. The rods and pistons were bought from guys who changed there minds on their build and I also bought them for a hell of a price. I also cut a deal with the machine shop to build this with no time table and use as filler work which took 8-1/2 months. If I had to do this retail all the way and also on a normal build time table most likely be around 9k or more
#21
It's not cheap to get 500 HP out of these motors. I was aiming for 600 but had to draw the line on how much I spent somewhere. Even a milder build, without a specific horsepower number in mind will satisfy most peoples go fast needs. Try not to get hung up on how much power you make, take a long hard look at your budget and do what you can within it. You'll be happy anyway when you hear that thing roar to life and take it for a spin. So what if it doesn't beat everything on the street it's still going to be cool
I certainty agree with this. I like the build what you can afford theory and also building an engine that will survive for a long time. I can afford what I want within reason and also can do a lot of the work myself which is another factor in any performance engine build. You also need the rest of the package too. This includes a transmission, rear end and suspension that will live and perform well behind the engine you are building. This has to be added into the cost as well.
#22
Thank you all! I do agree with the logic of building what you can afford. My transmission & rear end will be the least expensive part of the project. These olds 455 performance parts are definitely not cheap. I think I will go with the roller cam from cutlassefi, that is a good price for cam & lifters.
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