425 locked thread, Part two
July 4th, 2009, 06:03 PM
#1
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425 locked thread, Part two
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...html#post90526
This one is to continue the "alternate" discussion that began at post #20
Anything pertaining to this topic, is open for discussion.
Norm
This one is to continue the "alternate" discussion that began at post #20
Originally Posted by Jetstar-1
........ I'm surprised that nobody mentions the big block oiling problem and the need for restrictors to the upper oil passages. Lots of Olds cranks toasted from lack of oil at high revs ........
Norm
July 4th, 2009, 06:48 PM
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sorry norm but i had to laugh at the spelling backward stuff.
i agree about the journal size and higher barring speeds being the bigger problem. i am not a big fan of using Chevy parts in my engine but considered having a 425 crank offset ground to a 455 stroke and using BBC rods. i would like your thoughts on this norm. have you had experience with this?
i agree about the journal size and higher barring speeds being the bigger problem. i am not a big fan of using Chevy parts in my engine but considered having a 425 crank offset ground to a 455 stroke and using BBC rods. i would like your thoughts on this norm. have you had experience with this?
July 4th, 2009, 10:00 PM
#3
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I have no "experience" (and no "credentials") but I do have a working knowledge of the basics, and a little common sense.
Norm
Last edited by 88 coupe; July 4th, 2009 at 11:44 PM.
July 4th, 2009, 11:57 PM
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https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/90626-post41.html
Inadequate clearance between the oil pickup and the pan, is pretty common. Faulty relief spring/valve is possible but,
is the most likely.
Didn't you say,
that, under those conditions, almost no pressure is desirable?
That must have been one efficient pump.
Same guy that "invented" those restrictors that seem to be so popular.
Always look for the humor.
Norm
Originally Posted by Jetstar-1
........ I saw the oil pressure drop to zero, didn't see the pan pumped dry, but I have to assume that. Any other way to explain it? ........
Originally Posted by Jetstar-1
........ One spun rod bearing ........
Didn't you say,
Originally Posted by Jetstar-1
....... Relieving the crank or rod journals will allow more oil flow through the bearings and will let sufficient oil feed the bearings under low or almost no pressure situations ........
Originally Posted by Jetstar-1
........ Oil pressure returned to almost normal reduced slightly by the increased "flow" through the now damaged bearings ........
Originally Posted by Jetstar-1
........ Who was that rod salesman? ........
Originally Posted by Jetstar-1
........ Squish? I didn't know I was addressing engineers ........
Norm
Last edited by 88 coupe; July 5th, 2009 at 12:17 AM.
July 5th, 2009, 05:24 AM
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Please show me proof that restrictors DON'T work. I will give you names of engine builders that will tell you they do work and use them all the time. I have never pumped the oil pan dry(stock) or lost a bearing, using restrictors.
July 5th, 2009, 07:04 AM
#6
X2 Nowadays I wouldnt put a motor toghter without them.......
July 5th, 2009, 07:55 AM
#7
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In the previous closed thread I mentioned my belief in "no restrictors". Here's where I would put my money. This is pretty specific information as far as I'm concerned.
To anyone interested, I can put you in touch with the author, who is not me.
HOW TO SET UP AN OLDS OIL SYSTEM -
The restrictors are exactly the wrong way to treat the problem. Only the
symptom is cured, not the cause. I personally don't believe in the oil
restrictor system, for it's only addressing the symptom and not the disease.
Smokey Yunick agrees 1000%. One MUST keep sufficient oil flow to the top of
the engine to protect the valve train system. Oil restrictors always
interfere with that protection.
The major complaint is the Olds oil system pumps too much oil up to the top,
and it doesn't return fast enough. For stock engines, the factory really
doesn't care, as long as production goes out the door with next to zero
warranty claims. For high performance work, the oil system needs to be
modified, exactly the same way it's modified for most any other engine, BUT
WITHOUT OIL RESTRICTORS. There is a peculiarity with the Olds system, but
that's caused by the choice of materials for the crankshafts, to save
corporate money on cost of production. That peculiarity has masked the cause
of the so-called Olds oiling problem. We learned about this situation the
hard way 35 years ago, and solved it. Apparently, most of it was forgotten.
The following is the way we learned to build an Olds oil system, 35 years
ago. It hasn't changed:
1) Thoroughly cross drill the crank main journals. Chamfer all oiling holes.
Grind the crank 10/10, even if it doesn't need it, so that each main and rod
journal can be radiused more fully at each end. Clevite 77 bearings for an
Olds already have extra chamfer on the edges to accommodate extra journal
radius.
2) Run 0.0035" clearance on the mains and 0.0025" on the rods. Use full oil
groove main bearings with the bottom half of #1 main being solid without a
groove. Rod side clearance is 0.018".
3) Thoroughly grind, deburr, and polish the inside of the block and heads.
Open up all oil drain back holes to maximum size, with special attention to
the interface of head and block. Paint the entire inside of the heads and
block with Glyptal red electric motor paint. Throw away the sheet metal
baffle over the lifters. Now, the oil will race back to the pan.
4) Use the Melling - 22FHV high volume oil pump or the Toronado oil pump
with the high pressure spring. The Melling has a much better oil pickup
attachment system. With the crank mods, it won't really be high pressure
anymore. However, you'll need the potential for high pressure to move the
oil mass volume quickly to where it's needed. You have 2 choices for an oil
pump pickup. Either custom build a pickup that bolts to the bottom of the
oil pump with a square oil feed hole machined into the bottom steel plate of
the oil pump, thus pulling oil directly into the oil pump gears without any
middleman, or use either appropriate Milodon bolt-onto-the-oil-pump oil
pickup that goes with either the Milodon 7 or 8 quart oil pan and the
Melling M-22FHV oil pump, drilled and threaded to accept the bolt-on oil
pump pickup. You're going to use a Milodon 7 or 8 quart pan anyway.
5) Use either the original W30 windage tray set or the Milodon windage tray
for an Olds.
6) Use a very good oil cooler.
7) Use 40 weight or 25W-50 oil.
8) Port out the oil passage volume in the #5 main cap below where the oil
pump sits. Go in with a good carbide 3/8" diameter burr with a hemi-sphere
tip and open up the passage and smooth away all sharp angles and twists and
turns. You want the oil to shoot through the passage in the main cap in the
same way Gen. George Patton said he wanted to see U.S. Troopers moving
through German resistance, "Like s**t through a goose."
At this point, the Olds so-called oiling problem is solved. The cause is
insufficient work done by Olds to the crank and inattention to detail for
block and head cleanup and not having enough oil volume to begin with, but
you need more oil for cooling anyway. There is no other choice.
If you want to build NASCAR or 24 Hours at Lemans or Formula One longevity
into your Olds engine, then add the following:
9) Beg, borrow, buy, or steal a forged steel crank. It's not much of a
problem for small blocks, for 330s are still laying around, or for 425s,
since a forged steel crank comes in one. For 455s, it's a real problem.
10) For all big blocks, polish the sides of the rods, shotpeen the rods, and
install a 0.927" I.D. oillite bronze bushing in the pin end for the piston
pin, with an oiling hole drilled on top. For all small blocks, do exactly
the same thing, but do it with 403 rods, and add oil squirters to the 403
rods. Your engine now has free floating piston pins, a free horsepower
bonus.
11) Use custom designed ultra lightweight pistons with 0.927" tapered pins
about 3.0" long. I prefer double tru-arcs for pin retainers, others like
spiral locks. Your choice. Make absolutely
certain the total weight of piston and pin does not exceed 660 grams.
12) Rev limits for all Olds engines must be strictly adhered too, not
because of any oiling problem, which a whole bunch of people simply did NOT
understand, but because of the limitations of the crank materials.
Any cast iron crank engine = 5500 RPM MAXIMUM.
Any nodular iron crank engine = 6000 RPM MAXIMUM. (I stupidly went to 8300
with Thunder's first engine with a nodular iron crank and then, thinking I
could get away with it, repeatedly went to 7500. Dumb, but I learned, the
hard way.)
455 or long stroke 400 with a forged steel crank = 7000 RPM MAXIMUM.
(Thunder's third engine has a forged steel crank. It has a pretty sounding
ring.)
425 or short stroke 400 with a forged steel crank = 7500 RPM MAXIMUM.
330 or 350 with a forged steel crank = 8000 RPM MAXIMUM.
403 with a forged steel crank = 6000 RPM MAXIMUM.
You don't have to go all out like I detailed. For a more stock engine, do #s
1, 3, 5, 6, and 8. Set bearing clearances at 0.0025" on the mains and
0.0015" for the rods with 0.010" rod side clearance. Use 30 weight or 15W-40
oil. Use a stock oil pump with a stock oil pan.
Notice that a forged steel crank cures the problems, as long as it has been
properly prepped. Oh, a definition of crank flex. You know you have
sustained crank flex when #3 main (the thrust main) is beaten out to
0.040"-0.060" clearance, you've spun either #2 and/or #4 main, and #1 and #5
main look like they were just installed. Crank center flex is the
reciprocating weight trying to pull itself out of the block. The extreme
stress builds up and concentrates in the center of the crank. The block
didn't flex. The crank did. Only forged steel has the rigidity to ultimately
resist crank flex. Two extra counter-weights added to the center of a forged
steel crank increases rigidity by orders of magnitude.
The bottom line? The Olds engine oiling problem is caused by typical factory
least-cost manufacturing and assembly methods, ignoring all attention to
detail within the block for rapid oil return to the oil pan, and by
insufficient materials for crank construction, all of which is fine for a
stock engine, but inadequate for a high-performance engine.
To anyone interested, I can put you in touch with the author, who is not me.
HOW TO SET UP AN OLDS OIL SYSTEM -
The restrictors are exactly the wrong way to treat the problem. Only the
symptom is cured, not the cause. I personally don't believe in the oil
restrictor system, for it's only addressing the symptom and not the disease.
Smokey Yunick agrees 1000%. One MUST keep sufficient oil flow to the top of
the engine to protect the valve train system. Oil restrictors always
interfere with that protection.
The major complaint is the Olds oil system pumps too much oil up to the top,
and it doesn't return fast enough. For stock engines, the factory really
doesn't care, as long as production goes out the door with next to zero
warranty claims. For high performance work, the oil system needs to be
modified, exactly the same way it's modified for most any other engine, BUT
WITHOUT OIL RESTRICTORS. There is a peculiarity with the Olds system, but
that's caused by the choice of materials for the crankshafts, to save
corporate money on cost of production. That peculiarity has masked the cause
of the so-called Olds oiling problem. We learned about this situation the
hard way 35 years ago, and solved it. Apparently, most of it was forgotten.
The following is the way we learned to build an Olds oil system, 35 years
ago. It hasn't changed:
1) Thoroughly cross drill the crank main journals. Chamfer all oiling holes.
Grind the crank 10/10, even if it doesn't need it, so that each main and rod
journal can be radiused more fully at each end. Clevite 77 bearings for an
Olds already have extra chamfer on the edges to accommodate extra journal
radius.
2) Run 0.0035" clearance on the mains and 0.0025" on the rods. Use full oil
groove main bearings with the bottom half of #1 main being solid without a
groove. Rod side clearance is 0.018".
3) Thoroughly grind, deburr, and polish the inside of the block and heads.
Open up all oil drain back holes to maximum size, with special attention to
the interface of head and block. Paint the entire inside of the heads and
block with Glyptal red electric motor paint. Throw away the sheet metal
baffle over the lifters. Now, the oil will race back to the pan.
4) Use the Melling - 22FHV high volume oil pump or the Toronado oil pump
with the high pressure spring. The Melling has a much better oil pickup
attachment system. With the crank mods, it won't really be high pressure
anymore. However, you'll need the potential for high pressure to move the
oil mass volume quickly to where it's needed. You have 2 choices for an oil
pump pickup. Either custom build a pickup that bolts to the bottom of the
oil pump with a square oil feed hole machined into the bottom steel plate of
the oil pump, thus pulling oil directly into the oil pump gears without any
middleman, or use either appropriate Milodon bolt-onto-the-oil-pump oil
pickup that goes with either the Milodon 7 or 8 quart oil pan and the
Melling M-22FHV oil pump, drilled and threaded to accept the bolt-on oil
pump pickup. You're going to use a Milodon 7 or 8 quart pan anyway.
5) Use either the original W30 windage tray set or the Milodon windage tray
for an Olds.
6) Use a very good oil cooler.
7) Use 40 weight or 25W-50 oil.
8) Port out the oil passage volume in the #5 main cap below where the oil
pump sits. Go in with a good carbide 3/8" diameter burr with a hemi-sphere
tip and open up the passage and smooth away all sharp angles and twists and
turns. You want the oil to shoot through the passage in the main cap in the
same way Gen. George Patton said he wanted to see U.S. Troopers moving
through German resistance, "Like s**t through a goose."
At this point, the Olds so-called oiling problem is solved. The cause is
insufficient work done by Olds to the crank and inattention to detail for
block and head cleanup and not having enough oil volume to begin with, but
you need more oil for cooling anyway. There is no other choice.
If you want to build NASCAR or 24 Hours at Lemans or Formula One longevity
into your Olds engine, then add the following:
9) Beg, borrow, buy, or steal a forged steel crank. It's not much of a
problem for small blocks, for 330s are still laying around, or for 425s,
since a forged steel crank comes in one. For 455s, it's a real problem.
10) For all big blocks, polish the sides of the rods, shotpeen the rods, and
install a 0.927" I.D. oillite bronze bushing in the pin end for the piston
pin, with an oiling hole drilled on top. For all small blocks, do exactly
the same thing, but do it with 403 rods, and add oil squirters to the 403
rods. Your engine now has free floating piston pins, a free horsepower
bonus.
11) Use custom designed ultra lightweight pistons with 0.927" tapered pins
about 3.0" long. I prefer double tru-arcs for pin retainers, others like
spiral locks. Your choice. Make absolutely
certain the total weight of piston and pin does not exceed 660 grams.
12) Rev limits for all Olds engines must be strictly adhered too, not
because of any oiling problem, which a whole bunch of people simply did NOT
understand, but because of the limitations of the crank materials.
Any cast iron crank engine = 5500 RPM MAXIMUM.
Any nodular iron crank engine = 6000 RPM MAXIMUM. (I stupidly went to 8300
with Thunder's first engine with a nodular iron crank and then, thinking I
could get away with it, repeatedly went to 7500. Dumb, but I learned, the
hard way.)
455 or long stroke 400 with a forged steel crank = 7000 RPM MAXIMUM.
(Thunder's third engine has a forged steel crank. It has a pretty sounding
ring.)
425 or short stroke 400 with a forged steel crank = 7500 RPM MAXIMUM.
330 or 350 with a forged steel crank = 8000 RPM MAXIMUM.
403 with a forged steel crank = 6000 RPM MAXIMUM.
You don't have to go all out like I detailed. For a more stock engine, do #s
1, 3, 5, 6, and 8. Set bearing clearances at 0.0025" on the mains and
0.0015" for the rods with 0.010" rod side clearance. Use 30 weight or 15W-40
oil. Use a stock oil pump with a stock oil pan.
Notice that a forged steel crank cures the problems, as long as it has been
properly prepped. Oh, a definition of crank flex. You know you have
sustained crank flex when #3 main (the thrust main) is beaten out to
0.040"-0.060" clearance, you've spun either #2 and/or #4 main, and #1 and #5
main look like they were just installed. Crank center flex is the
reciprocating weight trying to pull itself out of the block. The extreme
stress builds up and concentrates in the center of the crank. The block
didn't flex. The crank did. Only forged steel has the rigidity to ultimately
resist crank flex. Two extra counter-weights added to the center of a forged
steel crank increases rigidity by orders of magnitude.
The bottom line? The Olds engine oiling problem is caused by typical factory
least-cost manufacturing and assembly methods, ignoring all attention to
detail within the block for rapid oil return to the oil pan, and by
insufficient materials for crank construction, all of which is fine for a
stock engine, but inadequate for a high-performance engine.
July 5th, 2009, 08:36 AM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,130
Why not just tell us the name of the author? I have a couple guesses but just confirm. Alot of that is opinion not gospel. Tell you what......prime the engine for a little while with the valve covers loose. Quickly yank the covers and catch the oil in a tray or something. How much oil will be up there? Hint........alot more than needed . Hmmmmmmm
July 5th, 2009, 09:26 AM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Phx, AZ
Posts: 1,012
I have some concerns here.
1st off, I view it this way:
When I install a main bearing in the sadlle, I want the oil hole to MATCH UP, and want it to be 2X larger, than the orifice for the camshaft oil hole, not half. The clearance on the camshaft's journal will ultimately dictate how much oil will be metered through there, but I would rather not give it the chance to meter more than the mains.
I will ALWAYS re-drill the cam bearings oil hole smaller than .100", larger than .080".
Assemble a few of these (small block replacement bearings are reeel bad for main bearing oil hole alignment) and you will see what I am saying.
Push in, or drop out restrictors are for weenies. YES they can and do move, loctite or not. Get a drill press, a file, and some patience, and do it right.
#2 The clearances listed above are tight for a street engine. JMO
#3 Cross drilling has it's drawbacks. That is another story.
#4 DON'T GET ME FIRED UP ON PATTON. He was Lombardi with a rank. PERIOD.
YES, I do believe that many of these problems can be solved by having adequate pick-up clearance from the pan. I screwed up on that once al$o.
#5 I have seen many guys use the "paint" listed above, and I have seen some that have peeled. I do not want that stuff clogging up my pickup screen.
Most everything else is SPOT ON in that long winded paragraph.
Jim
1st off, I view it this way:
When I install a main bearing in the sadlle, I want the oil hole to MATCH UP, and want it to be 2X larger, than the orifice for the camshaft oil hole, not half. The clearance on the camshaft's journal will ultimately dictate how much oil will be metered through there, but I would rather not give it the chance to meter more than the mains.
I will ALWAYS re-drill the cam bearings oil hole smaller than .100", larger than .080".
Assemble a few of these (small block replacement bearings are reeel bad for main bearing oil hole alignment) and you will see what I am saying.
Push in, or drop out restrictors are for weenies. YES they can and do move, loctite or not. Get a drill press, a file, and some patience, and do it right.
#2 The clearances listed above are tight for a street engine. JMO
#3 Cross drilling has it's drawbacks. That is another story.
#4 DON'T GET ME FIRED UP ON PATTON. He was Lombardi with a rank. PERIOD.
YES, I do believe that many of these problems can be solved by having adequate pick-up clearance from the pan. I screwed up on that once al$o.
#5 I have seen many guys use the "paint" listed above, and I have seen some that have peeled. I do not want that stuff clogging up my pickup screen.
Most everything else is SPOT ON in that long winded paragraph.
Jim
Last edited by Warhead; July 5th, 2009 at 11:52 AM.
July 5th, 2009, 09:33 AM
#11
Trying to remember member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,112
Why not just tell us the name of the author? I have a couple guesses but just confirm. Alot of that is opinion not gospel. Tell you what......prime the engine for a little while with the valve covers loose. Quickly yank the covers and catch the oil in a tray or something. How much oil will be up there? Hint........alot more than needed . Hmmmmmmm
July 5th, 2009, 09:40 AM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,130
Sorry, never heard of Milton. All this doesn't make a difference, I have had success doing things the way I described so I will keep on using my opinion........it works.
P.S. I did actually ask for proof.......never saw any.
P.S. I did actually ask for proof.......never saw any.
July 5th, 2009, 11:29 AM
#13
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,250
)BTW, one thing I will absolutely agree with Norm on is the fact that crank main clearances from the factory were too tight. Raise your hand if you think that .0007 is OK clearance on a 3" main. Anybody? Well, the factory does, (though I have not seen one that tight) specs on the 455 are listed as .0005-.0021 in my 1971 FSM. Not a mis-print, .0005.
July 5th, 2009, 11:48 AM
#14
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Phx, AZ
Posts: 1,012
This is exactly what I refer to when I say that it is difficult to use "right and wrong" in this hobby. Too many guys going fast using "X" while other guys are going fast using "Y" Once you have had success doing something a certain way and are confident, knowing that it has worked well over time for you, you are not going to change. Why should you? (Rhetorical question )
BTW, one thing I will absolutely agree with Norm on is the fact that crank main clearances from the factory were too tight. Raise your hand if you think that .0007 is OK clearance on a 3" main. Anybody? Well, the factory does, (though I have not seen one that tight) specs on the 455 are listed as .0005-.0021 in my 1971 FSM. Not a mis-print, .0005.
)BTW, one thing I will absolutely agree with Norm on is the fact that crank main clearances from the factory were too tight. Raise your hand if you think that .0007 is OK clearance on a 3" main. Anybody? Well, the factory does, (though I have not seen one that tight) specs on the 455 are listed as .0005-.0021 in my 1971 FSM. Not a mis-print, .0005.
How much twist will a 250 degree 455 block normally have, with almost 200 pounds reciprocal, and rotating weight hanging underneath it, spinning at 3000rpm? More than .007"? I bet it will.
Is it possible for the bearing manufacturers to produce bearings that align oil holes in a non-Chevy engine?
Is the cap'n is going for a promotion?
July 5th, 2009, 02:06 PM
#15
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,250
Very well put.
How much twist will a 250 degree 455 block normally have, with almost 200 pounds reciprocal, and rotating weight hanging underneath it, spinning at 3000rpm? More than .007"? I bet it will.
Is it possible for the bearing manufacturers to produce bearings that align oil holes in a non-Chevy engine?
Is the cap'n is going for a promotion?
How much twist will a 250 degree 455 block normally have, with almost 200 pounds reciprocal, and rotating weight hanging underneath it, spinning at 3000rpm? More than .007"? I bet it will.
Is it possible for the bearing manufacturers to produce bearings that align oil holes in a non-Chevy engine?
Is the cap'n is going for a promotion?
Thank you!
"How much twist will a 250 degree 455 block normally have, with almost 200 pounds reciprocal, and rotating weight hanging underneath it, spinning at 3000rpm? More than .007"? I bet it will."
A question to be answered by guys way smarter than I am.
"Is it possible for the bearing manufacturers to produce bearings that align oil holes in a non-Chevy engine?"
Of course not, nobody cares about "Us".
"Is the cap'n is going for a promotion?"
Actually, I should get demoted for agreeing with Norm.
Last edited by captjim; July 5th, 2009 at 02:09 PM.
July 6th, 2009, 08:38 AM
#17
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Not easy to prove a negative. Even harder to "prove" something that I did not say.
Instead, you could have them sign up and post their own opinions.
Is that "proof" that they do work?
Norm
Norm
July 6th, 2009, 08:45 AM
#18
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July 6th, 2009, 09:27 AM
#19
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Originally Posted by Milton
........ There is a peculiarity with the Olds system, but that's caused by the choice of materials for the crankshafts, to save corporate money on cost of production. That peculiarity has masked the cause of the so-called Olds oiling problem ........
Norm
July 6th, 2009, 09:41 AM
#20
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July 6th, 2009, 01:01 PM
#23
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just my opinion
lets see how many things i have wrong.
i believe firmly that both methods can be built very successfully, with and without restrictors. i have little experience compared to others on here but do also have what norm said, a working knowledge of the basics, and a little common sense, as do most of us. on Chevy, my experience is that they get far less oil to the top of the engine than olds, with no problem from lack of oil at the top, this is for a stock engine. doesn't Chevy oil the mains and rods first then go to the cam and lifters? doesn't olds go the other way? i think this is correct. if so then wouldn't it be natural that the top will get more oil than it needs because of being closest to the oil pump? this would make the last rods and main have less oil supply. i think this would call for oil restrictors. at the same time i feel that wmachine posted an as good maybe better solution.
like i said, i may be way off and my experience is almost all with stock or nearly stock engines. i am sure that someone will let me know how much i don't know and that is fine, i am learning alot here.
i believe firmly that both methods can be built very successfully, with and without restrictors. i have little experience compared to others on here but do also have what norm said, a working knowledge of the basics, and a little common sense, as do most of us. on Chevy, my experience is that they get far less oil to the top of the engine than olds, with no problem from lack of oil at the top, this is for a stock engine. doesn't Chevy oil the mains and rods first then go to the cam and lifters? doesn't olds go the other way? i think this is correct. if so then wouldn't it be natural that the top will get more oil than it needs because of being closest to the oil pump? this would make the last rods and main have less oil supply. i think this would call for oil restrictors. at the same time i feel that wmachine posted an as good maybe better solution.
like i said, i may be way off and my experience is almost all with stock or nearly stock engines. i am sure that someone will let me know how much i don't know and that is fine, i am learning alot here.
July 6th, 2009, 03:12 PM
#24
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They do not hurt anything, but for the price, a couple of beers would be a far better investment.
If one feels the need to restrict anything, it can be done at the pushrods or the lifter feed, just like some of the Chev guys do.
Norm
July 6th, 2009, 03:32 PM
#25
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thanks norm! i was excited to see what you had to say. you remind me of Sarge in ATV ACTION MAGIZINE. you just need to say drop and give me 20 for your lack of knowledge.
now ATVs is a subject i know most anything you need to know
now ATVs is a subject i know most anything you need to know
July 6th, 2009, 03:51 PM
#26
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Finally...cooler heads prevail. Lets try to disagree calmly.
July 6th, 2009, 08:11 PM
#28
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 5,468
Do they make Oldsmobile pushrods with a smaller than stock inner diameter oil feed?
If not, maybe someone should. It seems a sure fire money maker from all the worried souls out there, and a lot further from the main bearings inside the engine.
If not, maybe someone should. It seems a sure fire money maker from all the worried souls out there, and a lot further from the main bearings inside the engine.
Last edited by J-(Chicago); July 6th, 2009 at 08:17 PM.
July 6th, 2009, 09:28 PM
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As clearances begin to get wider, a stock pump is less able to keep up with the increased demand, and more volume is needed to maintain the same pressure.
Norm
July 6th, 2009, 11:15 PM
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