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What oil weight should I get? Looks like I ran out of time to get this going this summer so I won't have it running until spring time hopefully.
What type of transmission fluid should I get?
I need to come up with some type of bracket to hold the carb return spring. I'm thinking something from the rear carb to the intake bolt near the first few letters of Offenhauser. Either that or a bracket off the rear of the front carb.
I,m partial to Mobil 1 oil .
The factory originally recommended 20 weight oil in 1964 .
Today,s rough equivalent is 20w-50 .
Change oil and filter after the first 30 minutes of operation , to get any dirt that may have gotten into the engine.
Use Dexron III / Mercon trans fluid
I think a bracket for those throttle springs could be made from a 10 or 12 inch piece of 3/4 in, channel iron .
Drill two holes to mount it to the rear studs of the front carb .
Drill a small hole in the end for the springs .
The front carb should also have a return spring
What are you going to do about connecting the throttle linkage to the transmission control linkage ?
"Old Jim " needs to know where the position of the throttle plates are , to shift properly .
Without this throttle to trans linkage properly connected and adjusted "Old Jim " will do some hateful things .
And just may burn himself up doing it .
Last edited by Charlie Jones; October 5th, 2019 at 05:22 PM.
I don't see how that will be possible with my existing setup unless I'm missing something. Is the bell crank assy something that can be purchased or added to my setup?
I don't see how that will be possible with my existing setup unless I'm missing something. Is the bell crank assy something that can be purchased or added to my setup?
I THINK I have most of that stuff . IF I can find it .
You can have it for the postage . PM me .
I took it off my Starfire motor , because I have a 4 speed stick .
I wonder if this would be better being posted out in the transmission group. Does any one have a working picture of this bell crank? I'm not 100% sure how it works and if I could somehow come up with a bracket if needed. The springs on the carbs are a work in progress. I don't plan on leaving the spring there for the rear carb. There does seem to be more room up on the front carb for the bell crank but I would have to remove the progressive linkage I would think.
Last edited by bccsrc; October 23rd, 2019 at 02:27 PM.
Reason: Added last picture
I’m a little confused on exactly what the bell crank is going. Can you explain this to me? I’ve seen a bell cranke in jegs that seems like it might be an easier install but I’m still confused on what’s happening here.
I’m a little confused on exactly what the bell crank is going. Can you explain this to me? I’ve seen a bell cranke in jegs that seems like it might be an easier install but I’m still confused on what’s happening here.
The bellcrank should be mounted on a stud that is in the same position as it would be in a stock four barrel engine .
I can give you an exact location , but give me a couple of days to measure this from my engine .
The link between the bellcrank and the carb would not be used . The bellcrank would be there simply to connect the throttle rod to the trans linkage .
A second throttle rod ( which you already have ) would connect the throttle rod to the carbs .
The center of the end of the bellcrank pivot stud should be mounted exactly two and 11 sixteenths inch above the rear center manifold stud , like this ;
You will need to make a bracket that will bolt to the front studs of the rear carb. Like this ;
This linkage will be eliminated , as you have other linkage to the carbs ;
I went over and took the hood off the Oldsmobile today to get ready to install the engine and transmission. I guess after sitting since 2014 the engine compartment doesn’t look like this any longer.
I’m trying to not feel overwhelmed with how much work needs to be done to get the Olds back up to what it used to be.
I don't think that shop crane is anywhere big enough for the job .
Not capacity wise so much , but I don't think it will lift the engine high enough .
Perhaps you can rent a larger shop crane .
That engine is 750 pounds alone , add another 150 to 200 pounds for a transmission , and you are very close to 1/2 ton .
If you remove the radiator support crossbar it will make it somewhat easier .
Last edited by Charlie Jones; October 30th, 2021 at 08:50 PM.
Any chance you could accommodate an overhead chain block hoist? They're modestly priced (affordable) at the 3 Ton capacity (~$100 - $150). Pull car backwards, lift, pull car forwards, lower. Just an idea.
Did you pull the engine and trans out as a single unit? If so what did you use to lift? Biggest issue to do that is the ability to lift it high enough to clear the front and then sharply angling it into place, the car itself may have to be raised for the trans tailhousing to clear.
Did you pull the engine and trans out as a single unit? If so what did you use to lift? Biggest issue to do that is the ability to lift it high enough to clear the front and then sharply angling it into place, the car itself may have to be raised for the trans tailhousing to clear.
The EX wife thought in the divorce that she needed the engine hoist that I used to pull the engine and transmission out originally. I should have listed it on the items I wanted. Honestly I can't remember what model it was. I will probably just have to rent one for $40 a day or get this one from Harbor Freight. It's 2 ton and has a reach of 86 inches for 1 ton versus the one I have now 79 inches on 1/2 ton in the picture above. It's currently $270 though. I'm hoping it goes on sale or has a coupon that I can use on it soon.
The Oldsmobile is in a storage unit that I rent. I don't think I could get an overhead crane in there.
Looking through pictures I found a pic of the old engine hoist. I think that is from Harbor Freight. Probably 2 ton since the 1 ton version I have wont work.
Last edited by bccsrc; November 2nd, 2021 at 02:55 PM.
Those springs are important. As well as the spacer.
They maintain a prescribed amount of pressure holding the pipe to the manifold.
This allows the pipe to maintain a good seal through hot and cold cycles.
The springs and spacers occasionally pop up on E-Bay. The OEM number for the spring is 587575. and the spacer is 587574.
Looks like the right thread. Maybe I need to run a tap through there. I might have one that size.
Let me re-phrase that. They need to be cleaned, threads chased or whatever you want to call it. The thread major diameter damage on the first thread of the sendor is a clear indication.
Put plenty of grease on the tap to trap particles from running the tap in. You may also try a good "Wet-Vac" to suck out the particles as you run the tap in.
The Olds has been sitting probably 8 years. I should probably flush the gas tank and put in fresh gas.
Does this involve removing the gas tank?
No, you do not need to remove the tank.
You can siphon the gas out safely by using the following method .
1. Raise the car, either on a hoist , or jack up the rear end so you can get underneath with a gas can. Use jackstands.
2. Get two 5 gallon gas cans and a 5 foot length of 3/8 fuel hose.
3. Remove the fuel hose that goes from the tank to the fuel pump.
4. Connect the length of 3/8 fuel hose to the gas tank and put the other end of the hose into one of the gas cans.
5. Wrap a rag around an air blow nozzle and blow a quick shot of air into the gas filler hole to start the siphon. ( careful, not too much)
6 When the first can fills up, switch the hose over quickly to the second can and empty the first one.
Just checking out this fun dual quad thread. It’s a generation older than my ‘66’s, but I spent some time figuring out the gas pedal and kickdown switches a while back.
October 5th, 2019, 10:59 AM
