1976 455 upgrades

Old Mar 6, 2017 | 11:10 AM
  #41  
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We ended up sliding a 2x2 3/16 piece of square stock into the boom to extend it 10 inches it worked like a charm ! I'm sure the engineers that designed it would be cringing
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Old Mar 6, 2017 | 01:27 PM
  #42  
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Nothing wrong with that I had mine barely in and rachet straps supporting both sides. I was thinking the same thing or just getting a longer bar made up.

Last edited by olds 307 and 403; Mar 7, 2017 at 05:14 AM.
Old Mar 7, 2017 | 05:05 AM
  #43  
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What's a racist strap?
Old Mar 7, 2017 | 05:15 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by brownbomber77
What's a racist strap?
Stupid auto correct.
Old Mar 7, 2017 | 07:43 AM
  #45  
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I also have an extra extended slide in boom for one of my heavier duty engine pickers. I have a set of J heads stacked on the outside of the boom. The top J head has an exhaust manifold still bolted on so it's probably like a 150 pound counter weight, just in case. I have pulled the engine and transmission out of my 1971 Delta with no problems. It's a longer reach than the 1967 98's.
Old Mar 7, 2017 | 07:50 AM
  #46  
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Now there's a new use for a set of j heads ! Here I thought they were only used for boat anchors and a good idea ,I had to use my big brother as a counter weight just in case
Old Mar 10, 2017 | 02:55 PM
  #47  
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today was the day to fire it back up after about a week of wrenching! a little gas in the carb and it did what its supposed to .got it up on high idle and fluctuated it a little for a good 25 minutes .sounded awesome! we set the timing at 20 degrees for now until i can get it out on the road.my original quadra jet with the newly added electric choke worked flawlessly with great response.so far so good with no leaks .will put a few miles on it then change the oil.
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Old May 4, 2017 | 03:28 AM
  #48  
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just wanted to update this thread if anyone is watching .everything is now back together ,cam was broken in and have been testing and tuning for a while .have plans to put it on a chasis dyno in the coming weeks .im curious to know what the rwhp is after the upgrades.wish i would have done a before upgrade run ,but should be able to do the math to get close.
Old May 4, 2017 | 04:59 AM
  #49  
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Nice progress!! It's always good when you do work like that, you get it back together and it actually fires!! LOL.
Old May 11, 2017 | 02:38 PM
  #50  
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did the dyno test today not exactly what i was hoping for ,but all in all pretty solid.its plain to see why it was faultering when i really laid into it.(which was discussed in a seperate thread of mine)based on these graphs ,any opinions ? my dyno guy said first and foremost change the secondary metering rods in my quadrajet.it is the factory 76 carb with ct rods which are way on the lean side of the scale.and you can see on the graph how it leaned right out around 4000 rpms .i welcome any advice.thanks
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Old May 12, 2017 | 05:15 PM
  #51  
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took his advice and found a set of cv secondary metering rods for the quadrajet which are way richer than my ct's and it was an unbelievable difference .then came the rattling noise! ugh!
Old Sep 11, 2018 | 03:48 PM
  #52  
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i know this thread is old now ,but its been raining all day and i got bored so thought i might try posting a video of the end result of the upgrades
Old Sep 11, 2018 | 04:09 PM
  #53  
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Nice car. Sounds like a noisy rocker.
Old Sep 11, 2018 | 04:10 PM
  #54  
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Nice!
Old Sep 11, 2018 | 04:22 PM
  #55  
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randy you could be right but i did check them all and torque to specs. Since that video i pulled the intake and removed the cast iron block off plugs in the heat crossovers it was the second time i had them start to rattle .
Old Sep 11, 2018 | 05:06 PM
  #56  
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Cool, love Olds torque on display. I did get my boom extended on my engine hoist. I didn't have J heads but a pair of 4A 403 heads and Dodge 360 Magnum heads which always crack were needed to counter weight with the motor in the air.
Old Sep 11, 2018 | 05:33 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by deadeyejedi
randy you could be right but i did check them all and torque to specs. Since that video i pulled the intake and removed the cast iron block off plugs in the heat crossovers it was the second time i had them start to rattle .
If it were me I would remove all of the rockers and bridges and inspect them for wear. If they all look good then you could have a bad lifter.
Old Sep 11, 2018 | 05:44 PM
  #58  
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I do get a noisy lifter on cold start ups , I’ll be pissed if it is a lifter since the cam and lifters were new . ( maybe 1000 miles on them by now)Perhaps a job to save for the winter months .
Old Sep 13, 2018 | 06:19 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by deadeyejedi
randy you could be right but i did check them all and torque to specs. Since that video i pulled the intake and removed the cast iron block off plugs in the heat crossovers it was the second time i had them start to rattle .

throw those iron block off plugs and use some All Steel 2 part epoxy it comes in a plastic sleeve with the 2 parts separated with a thin sheet of plastic. It’s about the same consistency as play-doh, but sets up hard as steel. Mix up a couple tubes, shove it inside the crossover, problem solved. I tried this the first time on my car back when I still had cast iron heads (probably 20 years ago). When I installed the aluminum heads probably 6 years later the epoxy was still there. Those heads then spent another 8 years on a friends engine until he installed aluminum. The stuff is still there are solid. No rattles, one other than drilling it and cutting it up into small pieces it’s not going anywhere.
Old Oct 17, 2024 | 10:59 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by deadeyejedi
just wanted to update this thread if anyone is watching .everything is now back together ,cam was broken in and have been testing and tuning for a while .have plans to put it on a chasis dyno in the coming weeks .im curious to know what the rwhp is after the upgrades.wish i would have done a before upgrade run ,but should be able to do the math to get close.
I know this is a really old thread, but you wouldn’t happen to remember what cam you used would you? I’m doing the same thing. I have a bone stock 76 455 with massive dished pistons and just want to see what I can do to help it as cheaply as possible and put it in a 87 cutlass. I already have a performer intake and w30 manifolds for it. Thanks
Old Oct 19, 2024 | 03:44 AM
  #61  
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The cam for this car was sold to me by Dick Miller. The invoice stated special grind from comp cams .cam card says ol 5432/270h-5 h112 . I'll try to get a pic of the card and post it
Old Oct 19, 2024 | 03:54 AM
  #62  
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I gave Dick all the specs from my car and he cam up with this cam.
Old Oct 19, 2024 | 04:57 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by deadeyejedi

I gave Dick all the specs from my car and he cam up with this cam.
thank you for the reply, unless I missed it reading the thread, you kept the deep dish 76 pistons in the motor, correct?
Old Oct 19, 2024 | 05:09 AM
  #64  
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Yes the factory deep dish pistons it has dual exhaust turbo 400 trans and 256 rear gears . We redid a set of e- heads and put and edelbrock performer on it . The car is not a beast off the line by no means but will cruise at 80 all day long .It still does have the umph to lay down a posi though . Good luck with your motor 👍
Old Oct 19, 2024 | 07:00 PM
  #65  
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Was that a one wheel burnout?
Old Oct 20, 2024 | 02:14 AM
  #66  
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256 posi
Old Oct 20, 2024 | 04:23 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by deadeyejedi
Yes the factory deep dish pistons it has dual exhaust turbo 400 trans and 256 rear gears . We redid a set of e- heads and put and edelbrock performer on it . The car is not a beast off the line by no means but will cruise at 80 all day long .It still does have the umph to lay down a posi though . Good luck with your motor 👍
than you for your time. Sounds like my motor will be very similar to your set up. I have a set of G heads with big valves I’ve ported, I will put on it and but I’ll leave the bottom end alone. The goal for this car is just to be a good driver that is some what peppy and appear to be a bone stock 87 cutlass.
Old Oct 20, 2024 | 08:07 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by deadeyejedi
did the dyno test today not exactly what i was hoping for
This is often the case. But you did gain nicely from stock. 205 at the wheels converts to 260 net at the crank vs the born in 190 hp. However 40 of the 70 hp gain comes from just having true dual exhaust... So 30 hp from your formula and labor.
Originally Posted by deadeyejedi
wish i would have done a before upgrade run ,but should be able to do the math to get close.
Around 150 hp at the wheels stock.
Originally Posted by deadeyejedi
The car is not a beast off the line by no means
At least you didn't pay someone for the build. And you have a freshened engine. Bottom line I feel your frustration. Tweak and tune ad nauseum. Unless the components are grossly mismatched it should improve. Otherwise its still much better than stock, and should perform nicely with the right drivetrain. The TH400 is eating a chunk of horse, but i get it being the 455 hits the transmission with big block torque and its lugging over 2 tons. 3.42s will make a world of difference, but 80 MPH will be 3500 RPM vs the current 2600. If you want it to feel explosive off the line. You need the numerically higher gear ratio to compensate for the torque drain of the 4100 lb curb weight.

1 lb-ft of torque is gained for every 22.04 lb removed from the vehicle.

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/04...eduction-tips/

My car rips the tire on a dead punch like your power braking video. Yes your engine makes more power. But a 69 Supreme weighs 600 lbs less than a 76 Supreme. My performance indicates I have around 195 hp at the wheel.
Old Oct 20, 2024 | 08:12 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by rocketboy
I have a bone stock 76 455 with massive dished pistons and just want to see what I can do to help it as cheaply as possible and put it in a 87 cutlass.
Just a stock swap if engine is healthy would make it as quick as a 87 442, minus the drive train. Add a 442 drivetrain plus this builds extra 70 hp. Lights out on a 3500 lb car. Now you are as quick as a stock cold air Grand National, or stock W31.
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