When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The automatic one is larger and houses the downshift mechanism. Later years also had the Switch-Pitch high/low stall controls. Not sure what your plan is but I'll assume the bell crank assembly works the same on either
I have seen a few 4 speed cars and look very different from the auto setup. The auto has some weird pivot for the switch that seems a wasted movement. I am going to a 200r4 and want to remove the switch and anything that doesn't look like it should be there if you know what I mean.
you can't remove the switch without replacing it with a fabbed U shaped piece of metal,the switch is integral to the mechanism. stick ones are hard to find and v-6 stick is also different.the automatic assembly does have some adjustment to it that the stick one doesn't have.
I have some pics of two units. The shiny one is a 66 auto version that I rebuilt. The other I'm not sure what it came on but you can see where he modified it to make it a manual version.
I've got an issue with my kickdown switch. It's not in a good condition. (look at the pictures)
I've two questions :
- it's possible to disassembly the black plastic cover without any damage ?
- do you know the wiring diagram for the 3 connectors : specially for the pin 1 and 2. Which one goes to the trans.
By the way, I've just a 1 pin switch on the transmission case.
Or, you might try to find a 67, 6cyl linkage set up. It is a cable pull from the firewall to the carb. Eliminates the mechanical outside linkage alltogether.
Battery terminal would be the orange wire. Terminal 2 is the downshift, Terminal 1 energizes the High-stall mode on the switch pitch. If you have the original wire it's easy because they only go one way. If not the #2 connects to the bottom terminal of the two prong plug on the drivers side of the transmission and the #1 terminal connects to the top terminal on the same plug.
You need the switch to make your trans work as designed, if you swap to 67 v6 cable linkage will only eliminate the switch, 64 and 65 not sure on 66 but all v6 cars used the same pedal linkage as a 64-67 Buick A-body linkage a for both auto or stick, as they utilized a different kickdown/switch pitch switch, and is a solid linkage.
Thanks for the reply.
The issue is, I've not the original Transmission and the orignal wire disappeared too.
The trans is a TH400 with a single terminal connector
So should I connect only the 12V to the BAT terminal and the #2 terminal to the single terminal on the transmission connector ?
And nothing on the #1 ?
To my knowledge the only thing that shouldn't work is it won't kick down into 2nd/passing gear automatically. Believe 68 and up used a switch by the pedal, you might be able to get the electric to activate the kick down but not positive, if your 400 has a switch pitch feature then you may want that hooked up or that feature will stay in 1 stall speed and unsure again if it will allow for passing gear.
Hi,
If i'm well understanding, this kind of trottle switch doesn't match with the trans 400TH equiped with a single terminal connector ?
Should I find a switch directly install below the pedal ?
If I connect only the #BAT pin and the #2 pin, I might have the kickdown function ?
The stock switch on your car has two functions, operate the kickdown and operate the switch pitch torque converter. Since your trans is a replacement that doesn't have a switch pitch torque converter, simply use only the terminal on your switch that controls the kickdown and ignore the other one. That's what I told you in post #26 this thread a week ago. It is not in your best interest to start multiple threads on the same topic, as people will not have seen prior answers in the other threads.
I was looking for how to repair my trottle switch and to connect properly the kickdown function on the right pin when I found out this thread.
I understud your advise, and fully agree with you regarding the multiple threads. I'll do differently now.
To summarize, I'll try to fix the broken axis inside the switch (more confident to do it with the explanations in this thread). Test and select the right pin to activate the kickdown function.
June 16th, 2019, 02:00 PM
