Hi everyone,
I'm looking for the specifications of the rear and front axel for a 66 convertible Cutlass V8 :
- spring standard free lenght
- wheel trims standard offset
- distance between floor and body

My car seems to be very high and the tires touch the suspension parts when I turn the steering wheel from end to end.
I think it's not the original wheels.
If somebody might help me ?

The 442 might be an add-on...

 

I believe they are add-on's... nice Cutlass nonetheless.

I owned a 1966 442 many years ago, going off the top of my head your front fenders are wrong as well as the taillights. 1966 442 front fenders have decorative vents. Taillights should appear just red and smooth, no decorative molding. My 442 had a 5V on the firewall body tag indicating its authenticity. Not all 66 442s have this code to my understanding, so its still possible to be one without it. Plant location should help clear up this discrepancy.

I believe the original rims were 14 inches diameter and quite narrow. With correspondingly narrow tires.

P.S. I will dig deep both in memory, notes, and readily available info to try adding to this thread.

 

Hi Phil,

Thanks for your answer.
You're wright, for sure, it's a basic Cutlass 330 CI with wrong 442 labels added. Exepted this deviation, all the rest seems to match to the original version.
If you find out some other informations regarding the high of the body and the lenght of the springs, I'll take them.

I read somewhere here that people cut the coil to lower the body of there classics.
I not fancy doing this kind of operation. Do you have any advise about this ?

Right now, I'm working to fix the power steering wheel which doesn't work today.

Take care, have a nice day.

Pat.

 

Tail lights are Cutlass not 442. Correct on the front fenders piercing. A clear picture of the cowl data plate posted here would be a good start to determine whether it's a 442. The 66 Cutlass standard wheel was 14X6. Like to see more pictures of your car. Lots of knowledge on this forum. Love the 66 Cutlass convertibles.

Wayne

 

Hi Wayne. Thanks for your reply.
To be more clear, I don't want to know if it's a 442. For sure, it is not a 442.
My question was about the original height of the body (seems to high for me)
Maybe the former owner had mount longer springs than the originals.

For the wheel, 14x6 ok, the best way could be to find wheels with negative offset, because, as i mentionned above, they touch the suspension parts at the end positon of the steering wheel.

I could help me to decide which way to take to lower the body.

Here is the picture of the body data plate close to the left door bracket.

 

This car was made in Canada? This is the Vehicle Identification number I believe. What we in the U S call the "VIN" number. Above that I cannot clearly see but looks like " CANADA". Number is not very clear however it looks to be 633867001364. 633867 indicates it is a convertible and the rest 001364 may be the plant sequential number. As for your body height questions some one may know this better than I. Have you any more history on this car?
This will be a challenge for more comments. Maybe a member named Joe Padovano will chime in. He is an engineer and very proficient in Oldsmobiles.

I have a 66 Cutlass convertible also. They are wonderful auto. Welcome to Classic Oldsmobile forum.
The enclosed photo is the interior of my engine compartment which shows codes for building information of my auto. Looking at your posted phot of your enine compartment shows nothing like this or is it somewhere else. Hope this is not confusing.


Wayne

 

Hi Wayne,

I checked the car, unfortunetly the original building information are missing. The code plate disapearsed.
I haven't the history of the car before it arrived in FRANCE in 2014.
You're wright, the number match with the body version. It's 633867001964 (9 vs 3 at the end)
This number is also call VIN in FRANCE. It's noted on the administration paper of the vehicule.

Thanks for your advise. I might send a message to Joe Padovano.

Take care.

Pat.

 

The Canadian VIN format was different from the US format until the late 1960s. No plant code was used. In this case, the VIN decodes as follows:

6 = 1966 model year
3 = Oldsmobile division
38 = Cutlass model line
67 = convertible
001364 = sequential build number

I've responded to your PM, Pat, but for completeness, here are the specs for the 1966 carry height measurements:




The original wheels on that car were 14 x 6 with zero offset. The original tires were 7.35-14, which were 26" in diameter with a section width of 7.3". The closest available tire today would be 205/75-14 or 215/70-14. Both of those are wider that original equipment.

 

Joe, thanks for looking at this post. I was pretty sure you could.

Wayne

 

Great ! Thanks Guys.

I understand why the tires touch the suspension parts on the front axel, when I turn the steering wheel from end to end.
oday the car is equiped with 225/70R14 tires.
As reply to Joe, I'll try to measure the width of the axel in order to know if it's aftermarket reproductions or originals ones.

Do you know which retailer sale the original rim ?
I'll try to find a number or a mark on the actual rims.

Pat.

 

225/70-14 tires should fit that car with no issues whatsoever. Can you tell exactly what parts of the suspension are touching? If you get the chance in the next day or so to snap a photo of exactly where the tire rubs, that would be very helpful, Do you know if the suspension is totally stock? For example, lowering spindles can cause a problem. The use of a larger front sway bar can also cause rubbing. Those are about the only suspension parts I can think of that would rub.

 

ok Joe, I'll check this tomorrow.
From my point of view, the parts are totally stock because they are very rusty and the silentblocs seem to be very old.
I have interferences when I tried to test the power steering. I jacked the front body in order to turn easely the wheels.
In this case hte geometry of the suspension is little bit differente than road position. Isn't it ? Anyway, I'll take several pictures tomorrow.

Once more, thanks. It's great to have discussion with an expert.

Pat.

 

If you are only seeing interference with the suspension hanging down with the car in the air, that's nothing to worry about. Unless you plan on filming a Dukes of Hazzard movie, you'll never have that happen in real life.

 

Great engine ! I had one, it sold me on Oldsmobile for life.

I am not a fan of this either, while I do at times appreciate the look, etc, that someone is going for. I have owned both a 1967 Cutlass and 1966 442, back then I would browse http://www.oldsmobility.com/old/index.htm very informative site IMHO for these years.

Here is a direct link to the type of suspension modification you allude to. http://www.oldsmobility.com/old/lowering.htm

I was a fan of that site before this one... with that said I would only proceed on certain steps like this with verification from members here on ClassisOlds. As I hold ClassicOlds in the highest regard.


Pat I am wondering if you are feeling the vibration from rubbing as you are driving. I recall a similar issue with my 66, turns out one inner fender bolt on the outside of the wheel opening was making contact with outer edge of rubber on tire when I would turn lock to lock. I removed the bolt on the absolute contact side and did the same on the opposite side for peace of mind. It did not hinder structural integrity whatsoever as far as I could tell. After all there are several of these bolts per section, as well as a bolt on each side of the one I removed.

In my case my tires where slightly over sized and rims were upgraded to 15s. Funny thing was the same exact wheel combo did not make contact on my 67...

 

This is the type of bolt as I remember it.



If you put some gloves on and pass your hand on the inside edge of the wheel opening you will feel them. Then obviously turn lock to lock and see if any contact is being made. Good luck, hopefully this will help and hopefully I am remembering this issue to the correct Olds, I have had several over the years and unfortunately I have never taken notes as thoroughly as I do now. So this is going purely off memory.

 

Hello everyone,

I checked the height of the rear body. I have almost 11,9 " . It's far from 9" 1/2.
I might be the wrong spring on the car.

For the wheels, I'didn't find any reference on the rims.
Fully agree with you Joe, the interference are due to the down position of the suspension.
For all these topics, I'll manage them.

By the way, I found out that the flow control valve is missing in the steering pump. For sure, it can't work....
Another bad news, I've water leakage on the radiator lower hose. I checked the radiator too. Nightmare, it's not the stock one.
The size of the radiator core is quiet ok but the diameter of the hose connections are a little bite small. 1" 5/16 vs 1" 1/2.

So to summurise, I've 2 issues :
- A brand new steering pump to buy, easy.
- The radiator hoses have to be changed, and maybe the radiator too in order to have the right diameter on the cooling circuit.
For the second issue, what is your experience or advise. Should I change the radiator too ?

Pat.

 

Be careful with buying a replacement pump. I've gotten some that did not include the flow control valve and you were required to transfer the valve from your old pump. Obviously that won't help you.

 

Thanks for your warning Joe !
I'll check this point with the dealer before sending my order.

Concerning the radiator, I think it could work, but it makes me confused to have reduction in diameter between engine and radiator.

Pat.

 

Hi everyone,
I received the parts ordered to Rockauto :
- radiator leakage fiked
- power steering pump and gear repaired


I found out a leakage on the end of the rear bearing retainer
I have had squeaking noise coming from the transmission when I shift N to R or P to R.
I added 1 liter and half oil in the transmission, the noise seems to be disappear.


I found this on Rockauto web site :

Do you think it'll fit ?
I read that Jetaway 2 speeds is the same that ST 300 transmission. Is it true ?

By the way, I noticed that I don't have a wire connected to the case connector. It matters or not ? What is the role of it ?

If somebody could help me.

Have a nice sunday.

Pat.

 

Sorry, I was talking about a transmission leakage...

 

Hi everyone,
I found out the version of transmission : it's a GM 400 THM PX (means PONTIAC application).
I don't if it matches with the stock Cutlass 330 CI. And now, I'm wondering if the engine is the stock one....
I'm pushing further the invesgation...but good news, I know which seal I'm looking for.

Take care.

Pat.

 

Any Buick-Olds-Pontiac-Cadillac trans will bolt to your 330. The metal tag with that PX code will have some stamped numbers and letters towards the bottom. Those will tell you the year of the trans and application. The PX code was used from the 1968 model year up in various applications. The year of the trans will let us tell the exact application.

 

Hi Joe, thanks for the reply.
I found and ordered the seal. It's ok.

By the way, do you know anything about the case connector ? Is it normal that I can find any wire connected to this connector ?

Pat.

 

It's only "normal" when the person who did the transmission swap was clueless about how to hook up the kickdown wire.

The TH400 uses an electric solenoid for kickdown, just like the Jetaway that was originally in the car. The connector will have either one or two terminals, depending on the year of the trans. If it has one terminal, that is for the kickdown. If it has two, the second terminal is for an emissions control system called Transmission Controlled Spark used in the 1970-72 model years. You can ignore that one. If there are two terminals, they are arranged in a "T" shape. The lower leg of the "T" is the terminal for the kickdown. Your car should already have the wire somewhere, unless someone cut it. Simply connect that wire to the kickdown terminal on the trans.

Note that the original plug on your car has two wires. If your trans has two terminals, do not connect that second wire to the trans, as this had a different function in 1967 and will short out if your trans has two terminals. If your trans only has one terminal, there is no problem.

 

If I'm well understanding, I have to seek the single cable coming from the Fuse Panel (like described in the wiring diagram), and try to connect it on the case connector.


my connector :



So, I'll do this as soon as possible. But, today the transmission works well... without this wire. Why ? What will change when I'll connect the cable ?

Pat.

 

Sorry, no. That wire you're pointing to is the power feed to the switch. You need to find the two wires coming out of the switch on the LH side of that drawing - specifically the one labeled "DOWNSHIFT". And without that wire and switch connected, your trans does not downshift from third to second when you floor the throttle at speed.

 

ok, I understand what you explain. When I push quickly the pedal down to the floor within a soft cruise driving, the transmission is supposed to downshift in order to provide the max acceleration
Are you talking about the switch linked to the pedal :


I have to look at this area in order to find any wire coming out from this switch ? wright ?
Your explaination is cristal clear ! The transmission works but not with fully operating. I hope I'll don't find out that the solenoids of the transmission are broken down....

Many thank Joe ! very helpfull

take care and stay safe.

Pat.

 

Yes, that is the switch. It could be square or it could be round - Olds used both styles. These switches sometimes fail internally, and there are no new replacements available,so take care with it.

 

The round version will look like this.

 

Ok, thanks Joe, awesome !
I'll check it the evening (in France).... I'll keep you in touch concerning this thread.

Have a nice day.

Pat.

 

Hi Joe,
I checked the switch yesterday.... what a nightmare :
the 2 connectors have been bented to support a kind retain lead in order to hold the trottle braket...(look at the picture)



I straightened the 2 pins at the initiale position. I tried to measure the electrical continuity between them with pushing the trottle to the end. No continuity.

So, I think I get ready to disassembly the switch and look inside what's going on.

Another thing to repair.... but anyway, I knew I had lot of things to do on this car when I bought it. By chance, all the advises and support I can get here with the community, It's gold for me.

I keep you in the loop regarding this new trouble.

By the way, I received the rear end seal for my transmission. I'll fix it soon.

Take care and stay safe.

Pat

 

Hi everyone,A lot has been done on the car since mid-May.

Now I have a new issue with this beautiful vehicle:
Just for information: the radiator and the cap are both new. I installed an overflow tank.
Last week, when i pushed the pedal to the ground to enjoy the beautiful straight line in front of me, a small flow of coolant started to come out of the engine hood.
I stopped the car on the right side of the road, I opened the hood. I saw that the leak was coming from the radiator cap.
I continue the ride, calm to go home.

Someone could help me solve this problem:
- what is the right level of liquid that I should have inside the radiator?
I fill it with 2 inches near the top. It's too much?

Thanks for your help.

Pat.

 

Hi everyone,

Winter is the right period to start some hard staff on our nice rides .

The complet refresh of the front and rear axel is on track :








As you can see on the picture, I found out an issue with the coil springs :
I've got two different lenghts regarding the rears , and the fronts aren't the stock version, this is the VISTA CRUISE version.

I found this on the web :


Which version could fit with my 66 convertible small block without Air Cond. ?
Any advise ? Or another supplier ?
I know it's a 1" lowering kit.

Pat.

 

If you install lowering springs, your ride height will be lower than stock. If you want a stock ride height, order stock replacement springs. 442 springs will probably have a slightly stiffer ride, but should still sit at the stock height.

Station wagon springs were the hot setup for the street machine stance everyone wanted back in the day. Since a wagon has a couple hundred extra pounds in the rear, simply installing wagon spring raised the rear for those big meaty tires.

i personally have never cared much for the slammed look. I don’t care for the 70s sinking stance either, just my preference. It seems to me the slammed look creates headaches with rough ride, torn up exhaust and body damage, and alignment/steering issues, especially when you add wider tires/rims into the combination.

If it were up to me, install stock replacement springs up front. I like just a LITTLE stance in the rear, just enough to give a little attitude. Those cars have huge rear wheelhouses, you could easily fit a decent tire in the rear to provide the stance with stock replacement springs.

I guess it depends a lot on what your trying to do with the car. What are your goals? Since your in France, I’m guessing parts are non existent there, you have to mail order everything. That’s definitely a major headache.

On the bright side, I’m guessing you don’t have any trouble finding your car in the parking lot. Not to mention the intimidation other drivers must feel seeing nearly 2 tons of American muscle car on the road.

 

Hi Matt, thanks for the reply.

My aim for the car is clear : I like the stock height look or even little bit lower. Like this :



And today it looks like this :


This is the reason why I try to achieve the stock configuration.

If I look at the on line offers, do you think I'll achieve the look of the previous catalog drawing as soon as I'll order the stock springs version ?

By the way, you're right, when I look for my car in a parking, I first look for the group of people standing around a car, I've a chance that is my car for sure.

 

Another question,
Is there anyone who already used Gas A just KYB shocks instead of classic stock version ?

Thanks

 

Hi everyone,

The hard staff on my cutlass 66 is close to the end :



Brand new shocks and springs, frame and chassis completely rust cleaned and painted. + exhaust end curves redesigned due to wrong previous assembly // former coil springs.

I've got a question :
The upper part of the rear springs don't fit exactly with the pocket in the frame. I have a small gap forward and I have to align manualy when I lift down the car.

It's ok for you ?

Thanks for your answer.

Have a nice day.

Pat

 

Here is the final shape, with a brand new 1" lowering coils kit :


Have a nice day.
Take care

Pat.