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The "patina" of the radiator doesn't seem to match the rest of the car. It could be that the shiny paint they used on the radiators could be the difference.
Ok thanks. Well I will not be able to clear things up totally tonight because I need to get to my friends garage in the next day or so and look at a couple of things. The shroud you see in my photos and the top radiator support you see did not come with my car. I bought the the original shroud and put in on the car and he bought the top radiator support and put it on as well. Why? Well he said what was with the car in the trunk was NOT CORRECT. Well I do not think he knows or realizes what is or is not. I at first thought he said there was no fan shroud so I bought it. There may have been something there. He saved the stuff so I will get photos and show what came with the car and see from there what is what. Will know the rear code then for sure so maybe can clear up some things. What is confusing is the Oklahoma owner who got it out of Texas took stuff off to the timing chain and left it in the trunk in 1987. So we thought he was just jacking with stuff not realizing what may be correct or after market or what. So—- I will get photos more clearly of lower support, radiator and the stuff the car came with. David
Well, I agree that you have indeed withheld information. Prior to all this additional information you have come forth with tonight, most would have wagered a 3:91 rear gear in the car, now it could be something else?
Basically, the mounting holes for the shield and the size of the radiator brackets constitues the differences between the two baffles. If something else, others will chime in.
A non shroud car will not have mounting tabs welded to the bottom of the core support. A car that came with a shroud will have mounting brackets at the bottom to bolt the shroud on. This info apllies if the core support has not been changed or tabs spot welded to the core support.
The non-shroud top plate is completely different from the shroud type top plates....not just a matter of having brackets on it. I'll try to post pics on Thursday showing the different styles (there are THREE different top plate styles).
The top plates and shrouds are easily removable / can be changed without much effort. The tabs welded to the bottom of the core support are a much better indicator of how the car may have been equipped from the factory.
Ok guys I have a major question cleared up. Could not find the axel code on the tube still but turning the rear wheel I think did the trick. My W27 rear end is 3.91 geared. See the video with my buddy turning the rear wheel. Well my video exceeded the limit of the forum but it is 3.91. Almost 4 turns for one turn if the rear wheel.
My friend states that there was NO upper radiator support in the trunk! There was this fan shroud which he said did not fit and he thought was not correct. Here is a photo of the incorrect water pump in the trunk and the clutch fan? It was in the trunk. Have no idea if this is correct for this car or not or whether the Oklahoma owner was screwing around back in 1987 and just did not finish. I have to get out there personally and look for any upper support and any other stuff Again my friend/mechanic thinks the shroud had to be worked to try to get it to fit but it was in the trunk
Here is my center green horn pad that in great condition in the trunk with a correct vista cruiser wheel got for now until I can get the correct green one. Also correct radio.
Comparison of mounting brackets for the right and left front fender. Left looks different but no evidence of damage anywhere along the Passenger side. So dimples on the fender original for 1970? I do not know
Comparison of mounting brackets for the right and left front fender. Left looks different but no evidence of damage anywhere along the Passenger side. So dimples on the fender original for 1970? I do not know
The dimpled fender is not original. The dimples were added as a running change early in the 71 MY. Your car was built in Feb of 70. It's way too early to have an original dimpled fender. I would bet it was replaced very early in the car's life.
The car is a very nice time capsule, thanks so much for sharing.
Last edited by Boiler_81; Jul 16, 2022 at 04:13 AM.
Good detailed pics of a nice original example.
I'm gonna guess the right fender was replaced due to a little "fender bender" The reason being if you look at the core support fender mount, it has a standard long shim and what looks to be another small shim on top of that? Maybe just required a little more shimming after a slight tweek?
Comparison of mounting brackets for the right and left front fender. Left looks different but no evidence of damage anywhere along the Passenger side. So dimples on the fender original for 1970? I do not know
Fender and lower fender brace is not original to your car. Also, your car has non-original fender shims. It’s apparent that it was in a fender bender. I noticed you are familiar with LS6 Chevelles? The W30 is unlike the LS6. The W30 was only available from Lansing, MI plant, as LS6 Chevelles were available from numerous plants, and the car varied depending on the plant the car was built. Hope this helps.
Thanks guys yes I had assumed the moment I saw the car that the finder was replaced but no big deal because that was it really. Everything about this car is 70’s changes. As I said to clear things up the rear end Aluminum W27 is 3.91 gears no question which I think is cool! In case anyone missed the photos before the transmission is W30 coded and serial numbered to the car. It is interesting that unlike corvettes the rear end and the transmission are identifiable as W30. In corvettes it is only the motor and then only by serial number. That is why there are so many fake 1967 435 cars and LS6 cars as well. Yes I. Now that multiple plants made the LS6 and each plant had its own idiosyncrasy’s.
Thanks olds fan, my plan is to do what you said and which you can almost never do with a car like this and that is leave it alone as much as possible and stay day one to day two. The incredible body is what allows that. From 1970 until now, 50 plus years in 15% humidity. Kind of like the air plane grave yard in Arizona. Yet kept inside 40 of those years. I am a big interior guy. I hate reproduction interior. Corvettes especially are impossible to get right. Everyone uses reproduction interior but you cannot hide the fact it is repro. Dull looking, not as thick too supple not as stiff as the originals and seat backs are far more course than originals. I have to admit I still have a car covered in dust and the interior is still unclean but, I think it is superb interior.
Ok guys I have a major question cleared up. Could not find the axel code on the tube still but turning the rear wheel I think did the trick. My W27 rear end is 3.91 geared. See the video with my buddy turning the rear wheel. Well my video exceeded the limit of the forum but it is 3.91. Almost 4 turns for one turn if the rear wheel.
Having the 3:91 rear end meant you automatically got the V01 which is Heavy duty cooling and 4 core radiator.
The interesting part is the radiator rad tag code you have is the Y72 code ED.
The V01 rad tag code is EC.
They are identical radiators except for the tag and passenger side tank code.
The 400269 water pump you have is the HD pump for 1969.
The 404847 is the one correct for 1970.
Ok first where is the passenger side tank code??? Not sure I have shown that and maybe I am not looking in the right place. But that clears up the next issue after the rear end being 3.91 which is the car got a 4 core radiator so the lower brackets should be correct without enlarging them if they are original to the car. My friend who found the car and knew the Oklahoma owner years ago is going back out there and having him look for the green vista wheel and the top core support and whatever else.
Ah just looked back at my water pump photo. That is the pump that was in the trunk with the fan and other parts. We figured out it was wrong and put a rebuilt correct one on the car now. Cannot remember the code but I looked it up when I first got the car because the one I showed needed rebuilt and it was wrong anyway. So I think I am correct on the pump. I will recheck the number on it.
Ok first where is the passenger side tank code??? Not sure I have shown that and maybe I am not looking in the right place. But that clears up the next issue after the rear end being 3.91 which is the car got a 4 core radiator so the lower brackets should be correct without enlarging them if they are original to the car. My friend who found the car and knew the Oklahoma owner years ago is going back out there and having him look for the green vista wheel and the top core support and whatever else.
The tank code is facing the firewall up from the radiator code tag when rad is in car. It is near the top.
The Driver side same thing. It will be IF or may be blank.
The tank codes for the ED rad tag are CH passenger side and IF driver side.
The tank codes for the EC rad tag are CI passenger side and IF Driver side.
Again the driver side could have no embossed code.
Last edited by RocketDevo; Jul 19, 2022 at 11:55 AM.
Reason: more info
The “EC” radiator was not available through GMPD. The “ED” radiator was the replacement radiator that would be received through GMPD or AC Delco dealer. Your pump is probably a “re manufactured” replacement unit. You will have no problem finding a correct water pump for car as they are easily found. Great car!
I found the correct water pump right off when I first got the car so we could start putting the car back to running condition. The one I showed was incorrect I figured out and needed rebuilding we thought anyway
Just saw another number on the W27 rear end on the left side as you look to the front on the edge of the aluminum extension. Do not notice it before. Looks like last digit is a 9.
Small mud or rock flaps added. Probably needed them in west Texas back in the day. There are tumble weeds out there. LOL I saw them blowing out of Texas along with this dust into Oklahoma on many a windy occasion. Would turn the sky red/orange.
These photos are from the winter, February 2022 when it was brought back to the city. New tires on it since then and exhaust system and engine work to get it running. I have not been able to get access to the inside well enough to look for broadcast cards. We could not get the seat button release mechanism off tHe back of the passenger seat thinking we might break it. Any tricks to popping it off? David
These photos are from the winter, February 2022 when it was brought back to the city. New tires on it since then and exhaust system and engine work to get it running. I have not been able to get access to the inside well enough to look for broadcast cards. We could not get the seat button release mechanism off tHe back of the passenger seat thinking we might break it. Any tricks to popping it off? David
unscrew the plastic panel and that will give you access.
The “EC” radiator was not available through GMPD. The “ED” radiator was the replacement radiator that would be received through GMPD or AC Delco dealer. Your pump is probably a “re manufactured” replacement unit. You will have no problem finding a correct water pump for car as they are easily found. Great car!
The ED rad code radiator was more than just a dealer replacement.
It was not as simple as buying one and dropping it in your 3 core cradle Olds.
You are either banging the cradles apart or doing some spot weld work, needing a new top plate, and if your going to the trouble getting a fan shroud also, that needs tabs spot welded.
It would require a few, if done properly, modifications that would not be easy in order to install.
99% of the ED (Y72) rads would have been ordered while your sitting across the desk from the salesman.
