Good morning, I am looking for input on what else to consider when... My '57 has about 75K miles. I am working toward replacing the manual steering with power steering (I am waiting on a couple of parts) and replacing the oil pan gasket. When I replace the steering components, I will be disconnecting the pitman arm where it connects to the relay rod. I have dual exhaust so will not need to deal with a crossover pipe. The shop manual indicated that the idler arm support should be removed, then the pan dropped. I am not sure if there is a step to be saved regarding the oil pan and adding power steering. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

While the pan is down, I will remove dents and paint and I plan to check the main bearings. BTW my oil pressure on start up is about 40 psi and may be as low as 25 at idle when warm. What else would be make sense for me to consider? Thanks, David

 

David - In a word, DON'T if not absolutely necessary and you cannot remove the engine from the car at this time. Your engine is currently running with no problems or leakage which might compel you to act, is what I gather form your comments. Removing the pan is more involved then you might realize. You have to raise the front of the engine 4-6" to allow the front of the loose pan to slide under the crankshaft and rods. There is a Borroughs tool set to make this job easier, it has two threaded bracket assemblies which install on the front of the engine to more safely raise it for this job with the single front mount unbolted. You then must disconnect everything on the front of the engine and loosen the rear mounts and exhaust to allow this.to happen.

I have performed this job and try to offer what I have learned doing this potentially dangerous and involved work. The balance of the car may be affected on a two post lift, making a drive on lift the safest bet. Trying to do this on jackstands which i have done with Chevies is for the young and ambitious. The Olds engine is 850+ pounds which is serious business attempting to raise it on your back.

Save this work for when you must or can pull it out maybe over a winter. Keep the oil changed with proper oil and use your current state as long as you can.

I hope you remember me, I was the other guy there assisting when you came down to Ohio to buy a replacement transmission from Frank Graf (deceased) at Rocketfest.

In any event, best of luck. CW

 

Thanks CW, I'm a little confused, as the shop manual states this is relatively simple. Also I am not the person you think worked with you regarding the replacement transmission. The reason I want to address the oil pan gasket is there are seeps, the pan is dented, and some of the bolts were loose. This is an original 371 engine. Please clarify, David

 

What I am attempting to make you see based on my experience is this job is nothing like simple, there isn't any easy clarification to that needed. You will find this out the hard way so all I can do is wish you luck, and please work safely.

Crystal ball in use here: Most of the time if a guy gets the pan off he then wants to try to change the rear main seal with the engine in the car. If you come to that, forget it. All but impossible to install a properly tamped rope rear seal with the crankshaft in the engine. More loose advice from me based on my own experience.

If you are the same David who owns or owned the car and drove down to get the transmission yes we have met. If not it doesn't matter anyway.

Very best of luck, the end. CW

 

Do you have the Kent-Moore tool CW mentioned? If not, lifting the engine to remove the oil pan will be especially difficult.